My 1984 F150 2wd Flareside Project "Blue Mule"

[Rembrant]

I just found this picture and I think this shows it...

[Gary Lewis]

You didn't find the brake pedal linkage in the Driveline/Clutches & Linkage page?  

I've been thinking lately that this site needs some help with organization.

[Rembrant]

Gary Lewis wrote

You didn't find the brake pedal linkage in the Driveline/Clutches & Linkage page?  

Gary, no sir, I did not look very hard, and I only went through the brakes section. But thanks for the link...now I have to take it apart again because I put the little black bushing in backwards...lol.

Be right back...

[Steve83]

[Rembrant]

Thanks Steve. New booster and master is finally installed, and a I can now run some brake lines. Thanks again for the recommendation on the later master. I prefer the look of the old style cast iron one, but I can't stand that they are a rusty eyesore in almost every engine bay.

Now, bending the lines to make them look like they belong is the next job. This truck is just an old rust bucket, but things like sloppily run brake lines are a pet peeve of mine.

I did the rear axle brake lines yesterday, and I tried to make them look like a half way original job.



I just need to run the line from the master to the rear flex line then I can finally install the fuel tank, etc. Been waiting to get the cab mounts and brake lines done before lifting the new tank into place. My shoulder is pretty well healed up these days and I'm getting my focus back.

I also picked up a set of car dollies on a more than half off sale. Since I have such a small space to work in, it is going to make my life a little easier being able to move the truck around.



Once I have the brake and fuel lines done, it will be time to start dealing with some body work....the cab corners need to be replaced. Well, lots of stuff needs to be replaced, but the cab corners will be the first thing to tackle while the bed is still off the truck.

On the plastic fuel line you guys recommended, it was 5/16" correct? And you just heat it a little bit to get it on to a 5/16" hose barb?

[Gary Lewis]

Looking good!

Yes, the cast iron master does look "old school", but they do become an unsightly mess pretty quickly.  I suppose it is possible to paint or powder coat them, but any spilled brake fluid will quickly ruin the finish, so it is hardly worth it cause you know that lid is going to leak.  Given that, I'm going with the newer aluminum/plastic master every time.

As for running the brake lines, yours look perfect.  Nice and straight - every bit as good as the stainless lines I bought.  

And, thanks for the reminder on that.  My plan was to finish the front suspension and driveline and then install the engine/tranny combo by raising the cab with the lift.  But, somewhere along the way I need to get the brake lines run across the front and from the back to the front.    

And on the plastic fuel line, it is amazing how easily it goes together with a little bit of heat.

[Rembrant]

It only took me a year or so, but I finally got around to installing the rear swaybar. I can feel a big difference in just bouncing on the one corner...before you could compress just one side, and it was really soft. Now the rear feels even and stiff. Can't wait to get the front one on (and the Redhead steering box).



Besides that, I have only one brake line to run...the front one between the two flex lines that crosses under the oil pan. New calipers are on, new flex lines, all lines to master cylinder, etc. Just one stupid line to do, and I chose to install the rear swaybar tonight because I just didn't feel like laying under the truck...lol.

I'll get it done this week sometime.

Then the fuel tank and line, and I still have to throw the rear drum brakes all back together, which reminds me, I need to pick up a hardware kit;).

That's all. Small progress, but still progress...lol.

[Frank Wyatt]

Looks good.

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, it does look good!  

It amazes me how few of the Bullnose trucks have sway bars when they are now pretty well standard on new cars.  

[grumpin]

Nice!

[Rembrant]

Gary Lewis wrote

It amazes me how few of the Bullnose trucks have sway bars when they are now pretty well standard on new cars.

Yeah, ain't that the truth! I just wish the install of the front bar was as easy a job as the rear was (without the bed on the truck...lol). I'll have to remove the coils, which isn't the end of the world, but it's still a pain.

[Gary Lewis]

I certainly understand that move, having just removed the coils to put the sway bar bracket on.  

But, in my case it wasn't that bad since the truck was still on the lift and I can reach down through the coil with a large extension to take the nut off.

[FuzzFace2]

Does look good.

I hear you on that front sway bar and think why I have not really looked into them ..... yet.
I need to get the truck on the road first.
Dave ----

[Rembrant]

Made some OK progress on the old Blue Mule this weekend. Finally got the new fuel tank and new straps installed, new fuel line, and re-installed the frame wiring harness from the transmission to the tail end of the frame. Next thing to do was to tackle this filthy mess...





Have some rust issues here. The filler neck was in pretty decent shape, but it was rusty enough around the flange that created a good size hole once I started digging at it. Anyway, I sand blasted the rust off as good as I could, welded a patch on, then threw a little rust treatment on it and then painted the flange and about 1/2" in both directions with black rust paint.

However, the outer ring and the hardware inside the plastic housing are all too rusted out to re-use. Have to make some new pieces here, and get a new filler door as well. Oh well....rusty old trucks...I'd be bored otherwise.

[Gary Lewis]

More onion rings!  It's about time for a Bloomin' Onion, isn't it?

[Rembrant]

Gary Lewis wrote

More onion rings!  It's about time for a Bloomin' Onion, isn't it?

YES! And, I ran the angle grinder across two fingers on my left hand. Turns out rubber gloves don't offer much protection. And yes, I know better! Fingerprints grow back, right?...lol.

Soon time to start working on the bed. The good news with it is that the whole thing will be all brand new parts with the exception of the fiberglass fenders and the tailgate, which is the nicest condition part on the whole truck...lol.

I still haven't quite figured out what steps to take when assembling the flareside bed. Paint all of the panels first, and then assemble? Or just paint the critical spots first? I want to paint the areas that will be covered either by wood or by other panels. If I paint all of the panels first, then what do I do about the bolts and stuff...paint over it again I suppose.

Oh well, I'll worry about it when I get there...

[Gary Lewis]

I'm laughing to keep from crying.  I'm sporting two bandaids - to cover the lack of skin on two knuckles.  When the angle grinder hit the first knuckle I thought I ought to get gloves.  But, I didn't get them until I hit the second knuckle.  

Anyway, you are really making good progress.  I love the reports.  But, don't have any suggestions on the bed side.

[FuzzFace2]

Rembrant wrote

Made some OK progress on the old Blue Mule this weekend. Finally got the new fuel tank and new straps installed, new fuel line, and re-installed the frame wiring harness from the transmission to the tail end of the frame. Next thing to do was to tackle this filthy mess...

Have some rust issues here. The filler neck was in pretty decent shape, but it was rusty enough around the flange that created a good size hole once I started digging at it. Anyway, I sand blasted the rust off as good as I could, welded a patch on, then threw a little rust treatment on it and then painted the flange and about 1/2" in both directions with black rust paint.

However, the outer ring and the hardware inside the plastic housing are all too rusted out to re-use. Have to make some new pieces here, and get a new filler door as well. Oh well....rusty old trucks...I'd be bored otherwise.

Cory, note the filler door is a flare side only part.
I do know the style side doors are different, don't remember for sure on the size but I know 1 is curved and the other flat.
I cant remember if a duel wheel one is the same as ours? Maybe Gary has this listed as we talked about this when I was working on mine.
Dave ----

[Gary Lewis]

Exterior/Beds, Tailgates, & Components and then the Fuel Filler Door tab says Stylesides used one door and Flare and DRW's used another.  At least that's the way I read it.

[Rembrant]

FuzzFace2 wrote

Cory, note the filler door is a flare side only part.

Yeah,

I remember that the doors were different. I will have a look at mine again this morning. It is in a box at work and I haven't looked at it in 6 months I'm sure. The door itself is OK, it's the mounting hardware that goes inside the plastic housing that is rusty.

Oddly enough, LMC actually has new Flareside doors...and no Styleside doors. NOS items perhaps?...If they were aftermarket, why wouldn't you have them for Stylesides? Anyway, they're $137 USD each...which will cost me in the area of $250 CDN by the time it would arrive here...and I'm really not wanting to spend that much on a stupid fuel door assembly.