Fixing Eddie

[firefire]

Hi all. Sorry to have shocked you with the way I pulled the HB off   Actually I have a puller of the correct type in my garage. 10 mm bolts fit. Correct is 3/8". The slack ( slakk in norwegian) in the chain measured 18 mm. Name on the chain is Rolon. Today I cleaned up the timing cover . A 38. cal brush is the right tool.  Next the engine. All threads were good. Ran a screw a few times through all holes. And as you recomended, blew out with compressed air. Cleaned up.
Now it is time for buying parts.

[Gary Lewis]

That’s more slack than I’d would want to put back on.

And when you are planning the installation don’t forget to coat the bolts to ensure you can get them out. It is as much where they contact the timing cover as the threads.

[firefire]

Hi. I have ordered new HB SKP 594011, Cloyes Street True Timing Chain & Component Kit 91138 and Fel-Pro Timing Cover Gasket TCS45449.
The original HB is marked E4TE-B3A and 112372. After reading a lot  about 28 / 50 OZ weight. I chose the SKP. The one in the photo at Rock Auto had the 112372 number  I also like to see the manufacturer dare to mark the product with his name..
Their HB is marked E4TZ6316A or B. Hope it fits..
In a week or so we will know.

[Gary Lewis]

I hope all fits.  

[Machspeed]

I think you got lucky pulling that water pump and timing chain cover off without breaking any bolts. Or, as you said, may have been off before. I broke two in the process!

Can I ask what you ordered for your temp sensor? I replaced mine and since doing so, my temp gauge runs to the halfway mark. Prior to the change, it was at 1/4 mark on the gauge.

[FuzzFace2]

I like mine to run at the half way make as I know the motor has some heat in it.
At the 1/4 mark I think it would be running to cool and not burn off any condensate.

Mine bounces between 1/4 and almost 1/2 and I have replaced the stat 2 times, and sender once.
I have seen it posted that the push on sender connector may be dirty.
He used a Qtip and cleaner to get into the push on part then pinched it closed just a little and he then had the gauge reading higher. I have not done that yet as I keep forgetting to when under the hood.
Dave ----

[firefire]

Hi. I ordered a Motorcraft MTR SW2328.
Doesn't know how it works. Have to put the engine together first.

[mat in tn]

coat all bolts well. dripping even. with anti-seize. i have had many bolts break when removing them due to being corroded to the cover itself and have had to cut more than one cover in the past year for the same reason. every time removing the leftover part was not bad. these are long skinny 5/16 bolts at best.

[Gary Lewis]

mat in tn wrote

coat all bolts well. dripping even. with anti-seize. i have had many bolts break when removing them due to being corroded to the cover itself and have had to cut more than one cover in the past year for the same reason. every time removing the leftover part was not bad. these are long skinny 5/16 bolts at best.

Amen!  If not anti-sieze, some kind of sealer.  I use PTFE.

[firefire]

Hi.
All the  parts have arrived so I will start reassembling everything soon. But now I have read to much about advancing the timing  The new Cloyes gives me the option of 4° advancing. Does any of you recomend this ?  Greetings Stein

[Gary Lewis]

I would have recommended going back at 0 degrees.  However this from Summit says advancing 4 degrees brings in torque 200 RPM sooner.  

[mat in tn]

i normally go with stock set up on the chain. if I use a different cam profile, I leave it in the cam. however, torque being available sooner will be used more. it comes at the cost of upper rpm but where "you" use the power is really the point.

[StraightSix]

Advancing the cam will shift your torque and power bands down in the rpm range, that is to say your peak torque numbers and peak power numbers will occur at lower engine speeds. However, the engine will not breathe as well or make as much torque/power on the top end. Total peak output will be lower numerically if you advance the cam but perhaps the engine will "feel bigger".

Im not sure if your engines computer will function optimally if you advance the cam.

Assuming that it would all work right, the rest comes down to personal preference I suppose. For a manual transmission I would advance the cam as I typically drive a manual transmission vehicle at low engine speeds (1000-3000rpm for my inline 6). For an automatic transmission, the upper rpm range becomes more usable (to me) so I might choose not to advance the cam.

Advancing the cam will have a significant effect on your dynamic compression ratio, but I doubt it will make much difference in your vehicles fuel tolerance. It might be best to make other small adjustments (timing).

[firefire]

Hi all. First a weather report. Temp. is a little over / under freezing point. The sun is higher in the sky. Sunday we woke up to more snow. Thanks to my neighbour and his tractor
Saturday I bagan reassembling everything. I covered the gaskets (3) with sealant.  The bolts were covered with alu paste from Wurth. I sat the timing at 0. The lower timing sprocket needed the help from a pipe and a light knock with a hammer to get on. The HB slid easily on. Used a Makita Impact Wrench to torque the upper sprocket and the HB. Per instructions 1 sec with hammering is about 120Nm ( HB ). Thought I had to check the result with my torque wrench. The problem is how to keep the crankshaft from not turning. So I tried this.I tried it once. It clicked at 122Nm. But it could be more. The temperature in the warehouse is 8`C ( 48F sounds very hot to me ).
So after mounting all the brackets, generator, fan, AC pump, fuel pump, coil and steering pump I called it a day. So Sunday was the big day. Back in with the radiator and coolant. Some rust in the left overs. Then it was time for judgement day. Would there be leaks ? Mechanical failures ? Pumped the gas twice and Eddie started right up. Have to say that Demon carburetor is great. Start at ca. 1000rpm, works up to 1500, and when I kick the gas after 3 or 4 minutes Eddie settles down at 600 rpm. Video http://youtu.be/PuobnjDy3ia After 10 minutes no leaks, crazy sounds

[grumpin]

That’s great! Good job!

[firefire]

Thanks . Do the video work ?

[Gary Lewis]

Good job!  Well done.  

But when I click on the video I get "This video isn't available anymore"

[firefire]

http://youtu.be/PuobnjDy3iA 
Trying again Edit. It works. The small a at the end of the adress could be the fault.

[Gary Lewis]

Yes!  That worked!  Sounds nice and smooth up front, very quiet in the vehicle, and has a nice exhaust note.  You did well!  

[mat in tn]

i love it when a plan comes together