Big Brother is going 3G

[BigBrother-84]

Okay, ready to proceed to 3G swap!


I restored the C-610 connector, everything works, so now I can go on with the 1G/3G replacement.

Don't be surprised if it takes some time...  We have family visitors at the chalet, and the process will be frequently paused.

And don't be surprised too if I have couple of questions during the operation.


I'll take a lot of pictures and will document each step, hoping this will be useful for other members.
Stay tuned!

[Gary Lewis]

I’m tuned in, but in no hurry. I understand going slow and having visitors.

[BigBrother-84]

Gary, I'm reading at our previous discussions.

Just wanna be sure, this is the latest wiring diagram version?

Thanks!

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, that/this is the latest.

[BigBrother-84]

I'm taking a lot of pictures, so I'll be able to document a clear step-by-step (later).

But for now, I need your advice.

This morning, I took out the 1G without issue.
I still have to prepare the 3G with tapping the tensioner bolt hole, and swap the pulleys.

Before going further, I've put the 3G in place, just to verify the fitment.  And I realize that I'll hit a wall with the pulley.
This is a picture with the 3G in place.  Fits very well:


BUT, in order to verify the belt/pulleys alignement, I placed the V-Belt around the 3G serpentine pulley.
I goes all around, well centered...  But the 3G is already at its maximum tensioner position.
So if I install the 1G pulley on the 3G, I won't be able to tension the belt, it will stay lose.


Here is a picture comparing the 1G and 3G pulleys diameter:


Question:
Can I simply install a new shorter V-Belt?
If so, how much shorter than the current one?  The current one is 39-3/8" length.

[Gary Lewis]

Ohhhh!  I love the clocking on your 3G.  Everything is easily accessible.

Anyway, yes you can use a shorter belt.  For every inch of a shorter belt the distance between the pulley and belt decreases by ~1/2".  So if you currently have 1/2" of clearance you need a belt 1+ inches shorter, the "+" being so you have some room to adjust.  So maybe 2" shorter?

Perhaps buy two or three belts and return the one(s) that don't fit well?

[BigBrother-84]

Gary, 3G in place.  Starting test.

Big Bro starts, no squealing.
Seems a success BUT... the voltmeter goes wrong side.
I'll have to reverse two wires in the 3G harness.

I suppose the ground Y/LG and the Y/W ?

Maybe the Voltmeter studs were reversed...


EDIT:
Or, maybe just swap these two wires in the cluster connector?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yes, swapping pins should correct it without any underhood work!  👍

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, swap the R/O and Y/LG in the cluster.  Apparently the gauge is backwards.  I'll check that out tomorrow.

But congratulations!!!!!

[BigBrother-84]

Gary Lewis wrote

Yes, swap the R/O and Y/LG in the cluster. Apparently the gauge is backwards.

DONE! These terminals are very easy to get out and swap, it took 2 seconds each. And yes, it works!

[Gary Lewis]

Perfect!

[BigBrother-84]

Gentlemen, the 1G-3G swap is a SUCCESS!

This 3G "Plug and Play" harness is just W-O-N-D-E-R-F-U-L !!!


Tomorrow, I'll take some time to organise the pictures I took and write a step-by-step storybook.

I'm really happy to have been your guinea pig.

[Gary Lewis]

I'm really happy it worked so well!  

But we need to discuss the voltmeter problem in the writeup.  I saw the pic of the studs, and that's key.  We may need to mod the wiring diagram to say swap these wires in the cluster connector if your studs are the other way 'round.

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, your voltmeter studs are reversed from how Rocketman was making them.  You can see Big Blue's on the left and Big Bro's on the right.

We need to know if he's changed going forward or just dropped the ball - again.  Will/dirtymac had the same problem back in May and said this about a discussion he had with Bob/Rocketman:

Bob called me Friday a week ago about my gauge.  I talked to him for a while about the conversion, what we are all working on and what I did to remedy my specific situation.  It was a very informative conversation and I'm very appreciative given everything he has been going through.  After speaking with him, it sounds like my gauge was shipped out reversed from his normal configuration and was just an oversight.

[BigBrother-84]

Gary Lewis wrote

We need to know if he's changed going forward or just dropped the ball - again.

I'll send Bob a message.

But anyway, we have an easy plan that could be included in the "plug and play 3G harness instructions".
«If your Voltmeter arrives reversed, simply swap the R/O and Y/LtG terminals in the cluster connector».

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, we need to know if Bob has changed which stud will be positive for the future, or if yours snuck out the door when he was having other problems.  And yes, we can add the pictures to the documentation and explain how to reverse the wires if needed.

[BigBrother-84]

Electric choke voltage:

Regarding this conversation we had in the past, I am wondering if the new 3G is sending the same 7V voltage to the electric choke.
 
Should I confirm it?
Remember, Big Bro had no relay and has a 7V choke heater.

[Gary Lewis]

If I remember correctly the "7V" is off of only one of the three windings of the alternator.  And it may be only half-wave rectified rather than full-wave.

In other words, I don't know that you can get a good measurement on it as each DVM will probably give a different reading.  But the proof is in the pudding - does the choke work properly?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Is your alternator unique to every other alternator Ford put in cars & trucks since 1964?

"7V"... always in quotes, because it's RMS of a 14.5ishV sine wave that constantly changes with engine rpm.

If it doesn't work in the dead of winter you can always swap out the choke and add a relay, like 351HO's were wired from the factory.

[BigBrother-84]

Gary Lewis wrote

But the proof is in the pudding - does the choke work properly?

Right, I'll take off the air filter cover and take a look at a cold start.
I was simply wondering about the "theorical" voltage going out of this 3G terminal.
"7V" or "14V".

ArdWrknTrk wrote

If it doesn't work in the dead of winter you can always swap out the choke and add a relay, like 351HO's were wired from the factory.

Jim, I am just trying to do the less as I can in winter time, since there's no heating in the barn nor in Big Bro's shelter.  And I'm on vacation right now, so I try to do the more I can before going back to job next monday.

I still have the 14V choke heater that I swapped between my original and replacement Holley carbs.
So, if we conclude that I should install a relay, will I use this 14V part?