1981 Ford F100 Revival (Parked for 12 years)

[Jonathan]

Gsmblue wrote

If the key is worn it can be hard to duplicate. I have seen keys be manually duplicated because of this.

There is a few different kinds of cuts his machine can do. One is called the plunge cut I think. The type he was doing has smoother ramps up to the position and not the more jagged typical cut. But maybe it needs the old style jagged cut. I will have him try that first and if that doesn't work he is going to use a micrometer to copy manually.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Do you have the original owners manual with the key code and aluminum key?

I'm pretty sure a locksmith used to be able to cut a key from the VIN.
But I'm not sure if those records are still available through Ford.

[Jonathan]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Do you have the original owners manual with the key code and aluminum key?

I'm pretty sure a locksmith used to be able to cut a key from the VIN.
But I'm not sure if those records are still available through Ford.

I have a friend that is a Ford mechanic. He asked the parts department about making a key from the VIN and he said they can't. The locksmith told me what he does have access to usually costs about $65 per key to access the data. Usually he picks the lock and figures it out himself to save money. I don't have the key code but I do have the owners manual. But the owners manual does not have the key code written anywhere in it from what I have seen.

[ArdWrknTrk]

When these vehicles were new, inside the owners manual was a registration card with an aluminum key and a lozenge metal plate with the bitting code stamped into it.

I changed all my lock cylinders to be keyed alike, so I tossed that to eliminate any chance of confusion.
I wish I still had it to show...

[rcarlisle]

Wow, there is a lot I didn't know about the "simple" key.  Could you pop out the ignition key cylinder and have it done from that?  See?  Still showing my ignorance.  

I just replaced the ignition lock and use the two new keys with it - seemed simpler in my mind and like $10.  Did it when I did the turn signal switch.    

[grumpin]

Jonathan wrote

grumpin wrote

Nice job!

Ive been thinking of getting one of these for a vise.

https://smile.amazon.com/Pro-Grade-59105-Hitch-Mount-Plate/dp/B074CQFH5W/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=Pro-Grade+59105+Hitch+Mount+Vise+Plate&qid=1626112892&sr=8-2

I don’t have room in my small garage/shop for a vise, but every vehicle I have has a hitch.

I thought about that one before but a lot of times I am doing things that will get crap all over the car. I was also considering making a tree stump vise stand. Sometimes I don't like a bunch of crap flying all over the garage.

That’s a good point on making a mess of a vehicle. I was thinking of holding something, sure enough I’d make a mess in the process!

[Jonathan]

rcarlisle wrote

Wow, there is a lot I didn't know about the "simple" key.  Could you pop out the ignition key cylinder and have it done from that?  See?  Still showing my ignorance.  

I just replaced the ignition lock and use the two new keys with it - seemed simpler in my mind and like $10.  Did it when I did the turn signal switch.

If I have much more trouble making a copy I may do that.

[Jonathan]

I have been delaying ordering wheel bearings for the rear because I was overwhelmed with choices. Does anyone know what I need? I am just so confused by all the options. I want them ready for when I start doing the rear brakes, currently I am still working on the front.

They are saying things like Dana/Spicer 44 3 Axle and Dana/Spicer 44 Axle - From Chassis Number A25001 and Rear; with 9in Ring Gear; with 2,800lb Axle(s) and 3600lb & 3750lb Ford 9" Rear End with Roller Bearings and Sterling 8.8" Rear End. My head is spinning and I don't understand what I have.

[Jonathan]

Here are the AutoZone options for bearings and seals.

[rcarlisle]

You have a Ford 9" from the previous photos I think we all decided, when you were looking for lube.  Doc section shows only 9" available for 80 -83.   You door decal or VIN should tell which weight range it is.  

[ArdWrknTrk]

I would guess 9" for that vintage.
Is the banjo section cast or stamped?
The carrier comes out the front, correct?

You can decode the rear axle from your door jamb sticker, if it still exists.

[Jonathan]

And here is the Oreilly options.

[Jonathan]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I would guess 9" for that vintage.
Is the banjo section cast or stamped?
The carrier comes out the front, correct?

You can decode the rear axle from your door jamb sticker, if it still exists.

Back in April you helped me by explaining the M = 1000 so mine is 2800
I am not sure if it is cast or stamped. I will look for a picture and see if you can tell.
What is the carrier?

1FT = Ford Truck Complete Vehicle
C = Class C 4,001 - 5,000 pounds
F10 = F100 2wd
E = Fuel G Cylinder 6 C.I.D. 300 4.9 Litre 1 barrel LD
B = 1981
N = Norfolk
3B = Midnight Blue Metallic
3H = Medium Blue Metallic
F101 = 81 Pickup 4700 GWP F100 2WD
DB4 = Blue all vinyl Regular Cap w/styleside pickup box 99 Behind Cab Parts
K = 3 Speed C6 Automatic
01= Ratio 2.75 Capacity 2.8M 
21 = DSO Atlanta

[Jonathan]

rcarlisle wrote

You have a Ford 9" from the previous photos I think we all decided, when you were looking for lube.  Doc section shows only 9" available for 80 -83.   You door decal or VIN should tell which weight range it is.

Thanks Randy, I wonder why they show so many options?

[Jonathan]

Here are some pictures I took before.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Randy's post jogs my memory. It is a 9" as I recall.

The carrier holds the ring and spider gears.
In a 9" the pinion gear and shaft are also a part of it.
(AKA third member)

And, yes. I didn't think the 8.8 was available that far back.
Randy seems to confirm this.

I'm just more familiar with the heavier Dana 60/61/70 axles, and the corporate Sterling 10.25" that came in '85.

[ArdWrknTrk]

The upper right translates to '81 May 4th

The bottom line starts 2.75 (open). 9" 

I don't know enough about the BOM to decode it off the top of my head.

[Jonathan]

So is this NATIONAL 88128RA the one I need? And if so how many? Is there any bearing seals needed for the rear with this type?



 

[Jonathan]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

The upper right translates to '81 May 4th

The bottom line starts 2.75 (open). 9" 

I don't know enough about the BOM to decode it off the top of my head.

Thanks, that is very good information.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Are you just doing the hub seals and bearings, or are you going to pull the center section and replace everything, necessitating setting up the gear lash?

Yes, there are hub seals. And there is a gasket if you are going to pull off the brake backing plates.

But I don't know how CDO you expect to go.