I was wrong - this one was $44 to my door. Summit also had best price on a whole set of Fairchild weatherstripping.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/FCD-M4057 All the screws line right up. Not a crazy "make it work" deal.
Randy
Mt. Airy, NC 81 F-150 STYLESIDE regular cab 2wd. 302 Auto Zone crate. 5 spd M5od-R2 |
Administrator
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Looking good! Excellent job on the master cylinder. And the brake backing plate is good as well.
On the cowl seal, why pay $30 when you can do two for half that? See our page at Documentation/Underhood/Cowl Seal.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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I missed that one completely. Just goes to show there is so much on here.
Randy
Mt. Airy, NC 81 F-150 STYLESIDE regular cab 2wd. 302 Auto Zone crate. 5 spd M5od-R2 |
Administrator
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Just ask, I usually know where the bodies are buried.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by Jonathan
On the metal splinter clean up. I use the Harbor freight round one like you did , but I wrap a blue paper towel around it and then just throw the towel away. keeps the magnet cleaner.
Bruce aka Moose--1978 F250 LWB Flareside, Dana 60's w/ 4:10's, 460, c6
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In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
I'm learning that this is THE place to look for an answer first. Then decide which way to go with a part or repair. And this very thread should be a pretty good resource for anyone reviving a truck. Jonathan has done a heck of a job on the things he's done so far. I'd be all like "good enough - let's drive!" with no brakes and a plastic fuel jug.
Randy
Mt. Airy, NC 81 F-150 STYLESIDE regular cab 2wd. 302 Auto Zone crate. 5 spd M5od-R2 |
Administrator
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We strive to be THE place, but there are others that are good resources as well.
And you are right, this thread is the be-all and end-all on how to do lots of things.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by rcarlisle
My beard protects my cheeks but those things poke everywhere else and can be so painful! I need to do a garage tour video. LOL
1981 Ford F100 6 Cylinder 4.9 Litre 1 Barrel
3 Speed C6 Automatic |
In reply to this post by rcarlisle
Thanks for the link.
1981 Ford F100 6 Cylinder 4.9 Litre 1 Barrel
3 Speed C6 Automatic |
In reply to this post by Bruce moose4x4
Thank for the tip, I only tried plastic bags but gave up because they always ripped. But maybe a heavy duty paper towel will work better. I like my new one though because it covers more area at a time. It also has a release lever that moves the magnet away and everything will drop in the trash can with just a slight wipe with a towel.
1981 Ford F100 6 Cylinder 4.9 Litre 1 Barrel
3 Speed C6 Automatic |
In reply to this post by rcarlisle
Thanks Randy, I hope it will be some help to others in the future.
1981 Ford F100 6 Cylinder 4.9 Litre 1 Barrel
3 Speed C6 Automatic |
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Thank you Gary but I hope it won't be the be-all and end-all. Because I don't want to have to fix everything on my truck!
1981 Ford F100 6 Cylinder 4.9 Litre 1 Barrel
3 Speed C6 Automatic |
In reply to this post by Jonathan
Moving back to the brake booster there is a clamp that helps secure the brake lines coming from the master cylinder. I cleaned and painted the clamp and restored the rubber bumper using Plasti Dip.
1981 Ford F100 6 Cylinder 4.9 Litre 1 Barrel
3 Speed C6 Automatic |
Administrator
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You see, right there that PlastiDip step is what I mean. The be-all and end-all!
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by Jonathan
I got the spare tire mounted by using Lots of Mismatching Crap from LMC. Of course the spare tire holder in the middle does not fit inside the wheel and the bolt is too short to have the valve stem facing up with the tire flipped around as it was intended by Ford to prevent dirt going up around the valve stem. I will try to find OEM hardware but it will do for now. Thanks LMC, you never disappoint! LOL
I cleaned the threads up a little so it would thread on easier. I don't want to fight this on the side of the freeway. The only thing that concerns me at this point is the pressure on the tire on the metal parts. Should I buffer something in between? Will it cause permanent indentations? As for the lock I still need to finish working on it but put it on to test the fit and function. And no, I am not worried about someone stealing the tire. It came with the lock so I will use the lock. I like to restore things back to how it was if possible.
1981 Ford F100 6 Cylinder 4.9 Litre 1 Barrel
3 Speed C6 Automatic |
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
I try not to disappoint. OCD to the rescue!
1981 Ford F100 6 Cylinder 4.9 Litre 1 Barrel
3 Speed C6 Automatic |
I was going to say EXACTLY what Gary said. You say you won't be restoring the whole thing, but I think you will probably do all you can short of a rotisserie restoration. Brand new truck under the body and paint and frame. You can't help yourself. And I mean that with ALL the respect I can give. When I did my booster, that clip never entered my mind. I didn't clean it or even paint it, much less everything you did. I bet that is the only one in the world that nice. I am in awe of the things you see to do.
I can't wait to see what you do with the interior.
Randy
Mt. Airy, NC 81 F-150 STYLESIDE regular cab 2wd. 302 Auto Zone crate. 5 spd M5od-R2 |
Thanks for your feedback, help and motivation Randy. I am looking forward to getting to the interior. It is a serious mess!
1981 Ford F100 6 Cylinder 4.9 Litre 1 Barrel
3 Speed C6 Automatic |
Looking good
Got a question on the tire mount/ In the picture I think the nut should be on top of the frame not below as all the weight is pulling down on the clip not the nut. same should be true for the bolt on the other side nut on top of the frame not below it. Dave ----
Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1 81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100 |
There is a shape to the bolt right above the bolt head that is like a key that engages with the metal cross piece. But I am missing the greyed out part shown in the LMC picture. But I think all it does is keep you from loosing the bolt on the side of the road, not sure really.
1981 Ford F100 6 Cylinder 4.9 Litre 1 Barrel
3 Speed C6 Automatic |
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