1981 Ford F100 Revival (Parked for 12 years)

[Jonathan]

Jonathan wrote

FuzzFace2 wrote

Looking good

Got a question on the tire mount/

In the picture I think the nut should be on top of the frame not below as all the weight is pulling down on the clip not the nut.
same should be true for the bolt on the other side nut on top of the frame not below it.
Dave ----

There is a shape to the bolt right above the bolt head that is like a key that engages with the metal cross piece. But I am missing the greyed out part shown in the LMC picture. But I think all it does is keep you from loosing the bolt on the side of the road, not sure really.

Actually it might help stabilize it too. I will pick up some flat iron and a nut and fashion something up.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I think Dave is saying it appears that #2 is installed with the threaded nut below the rail instead of on top.

If that's the case, yes the spare tire is hanging from the spring steel clip and not from the nut above the rail or crossmember.

They are oriented correctly in the LMC illustration.

[FuzzFace2]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I think Dave is saying it appears that #2 is installed with the threaded nut below the rail instead of on top.

If that's the case, yes the spare tire is hanging from the spring steel clip and not from the nut above the rail or crossmember.

They are oriented correctly in the LMC illustration.

Yes that is what I am saying.
With the nut on the top and the spring clip down the weight of the tire is now pulling on the nut that is on the top of the frame.
Right now the weight is pulling on the spring clip and it can pull it open and drop the tire assy. on the ground.

The same goes for the bolt on the other end of the cross bar as it also goes into the same kind of spring / nut deal.
Dave ----

[Jonathan]

FuzzFace2 wrote

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I think Dave is saying it appears that #2 is installed with the threaded nut below the rail instead of on top.

If that's the case, yes the spare tire is hanging from the spring steel clip and not from the nut above the rail or crossmember.

They are oriented correctly in the LMC illustration.

Yes that is what I am saying.
With the nut on the top and the spring clip down the weight of the tire is now pulling on the nut that is on the top of the frame.
Right now the weight is pulling on the spring clip and it can pull it open and drop the tire assy. on the ground.

The same goes for the bolt on the other end of the cross bar as it also goes into the same kind of spring / nut deal.
Dave ----

I understand now, thanks for the key number Jim. And thanks for spotting that mistake Dave. Yes, it looks like I got that in wrong. I will correct that. The other side is correct and I didn't use the LMC nut. The factory bolt is cupped so it can swivel and installed facing down and not up like the LMC picture shows.

[Jonathan]

Jonathan wrote

FuzzFace2 wrote

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I think Dave is saying it appears that #2 is installed with the threaded nut below the rail instead of on top.

If that's the case, yes the spare tire is hanging from the spring steel clip and not from the nut above the rail or crossmember.

They are oriented correctly in the LMC illustration.

Yes that is what I am saying.
With the nut on the top and the spring clip down the weight of the tire is now pulling on the nut that is on the top of the frame.
Right now the weight is pulling on the spring clip and it can pull it open and drop the tire assy. on the ground.

The same goes for the bolt on the other end of the cross bar as it also goes into the same kind of spring / nut deal.
Dave ----

I understand now, thanks for the key number Jim. And thanks for spotting that mistake Dave. Yes, it looks like I got that in wrong. I will correct that. The other side is correct and I didn't use the LMC nut. The factory bolt is cupped so it can swivel and installed facing down and not up like the LMC picture shows.

Actually I was mistaken. The nut is on top. But the nut is cupped so it can swivel when you drop the front side down. I'm not sure how well the LMC solution would work because it doesn't pivot like the factory one.

[Jonathan]

All fixed. Thanks for the feedback.

[FuzzFace2]

Jonathan wrote

All fixed. Thanks for the feedback.

Much better
Dave ----

[rcarlisle]

That does look good.  Good job.  

[Jonathan]

As Randy suspected the master cylinder started to rust very quickly. I removed it to clean off the rust and put a protective coating on it to prevent it from rusting again. I used a vice I got for free to hold the master cylinder on a table outside. A friend found the vice on the side of the road and gave it to me. So I am thinking of making some kind of portable stand with handles to take it around where I need it. My Milwaukee battery powered rotary tool has been a piece of crap from the start so I finally gave up using it and sent it off to Milwaukee to get repaired.  I used my cheap but dependable Black and Decker corded rotary tool to remove the rust. I also put some Sil-Glyde on the brake booster to help seal and protect it where the master cylinder attaches.

[Gary Lewis]

Looks amazing!  If you weren't keeping it all stock I'd urge you to go with the later master cylinder with the aluminum body and plastic reservoir.  They don't rust nor leak, and you don't have to pull the cover off to see if you need to fill them.

[grumpin]

Nice job!

Ive been thinking of getting one of these for a vise.

https://smile.amazon.com/Pro-Grade-59105-Hitch-Mount-Plate/dp/B074CQFH5W/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=Pro-Grade+59105+Hitch+Mount+Vise+Plate&qid=1626112892&sr=8-2

I don’t have room in my small garage/shop for a vise, but every vehicle I have has a hitch.

[Jonathan]

Gary Lewis wrote

Looks amazing!  If you weren't keeping it all stock I'd urge you to go with the later master cylinder with the aluminum body and plastic reservoir.  They don't rust nor leak, and you don't have to pull the cover off to see if you need to fill them.

Thanks Gary, I didn't know there was another option. Can you send me the link to the part?

[Gsmblue]

These black and Decker work mates are super popular in England. Incredibly useful…


https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00PTX62Q4/ref=twister_B01M6VB0X3?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

[Jonathan]

grumpin wrote

Nice job!

Ive been thinking of getting one of these for a vise.

https://smile.amazon.com/Pro-Grade-59105-Hitch-Mount-Plate/dp/B074CQFH5W/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=Pro-Grade+59105+Hitch+Mount+Vise+Plate&qid=1626112892&sr=8-2

I don’t have room in my small garage/shop for a vise, but every vehicle I have has a hitch.

I thought about that one before but a lot of times I am doing things that will get crap all over the car. I was also considering making a tree stump vise stand. Sometimes I don't like a bunch of crap flying all over the garage.

[Jonathan]

Having issues making a spare key for the ignition. The locksmith tried four times already. Going to give it another go today.

[Jonathan]

Gsmblue wrote

These black and Decker work mates are super popular in England. Incredibly useful…


https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00PTX62Q4/ref=twister_B01M6VB0X3?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

I had one of those and sold it. Plastic handles broke easy and would jam. I think Al tried to put one together in Married with Children and it was a disaster too. LOL

[rcarlisle]

Dang - what's the deal with the key?  That should be easy enough, I would think.  

[Gsmblue]

If the key is worn it can be hard to duplicate. I have seen keys be manually duplicated because of this.

[rcarlisle]

I have this one - not quite as many features but it works well.   I have a small workbench but found a place to have a small vise.  

https://www.amazon.com/Keter-Folding-Workbench-Sawhorse-Capacity/dp/B001CWX26Y/ref=sr_1_2?crid=20065ENIV0AI7&dchild=1&keywords=keter+folding+work+table&qid=1626183388&s=hi&sprefix=keter+%2Ctools%2C180&sr=1-2

[Gary Lewis]

Jonathan wrote

Gary Lewis wrote

Looks amazing!  If you weren't keeping it all stock I'd urge you to go with the later master cylinder with the aluminum body and plastic reservoir.  They don't rust nor leak, and you don't have to pull the cover off to see if you need to fill them.

Thanks Gary, I didn't know there was another option. Can you send me the link to the part?

Check this thread: Master Cylinder Rust/Leaks

And this post: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/My-1984-F150-2wd-Flareside-Project-Blue-Mule-tp4515p33437.html