1981 Ford F100 Revival (Parked for 12 years)

[Gary Lewis]

It isn't unusual to have that lip.  So take it off, but don't file the shoulder that the bearing sits on.  And make sure the bearing goes on snugly.

All the weight should be off the suspension to get the best flow of grease on the kink pins, so I'd move the jack stand to the frame - either now or later.

And the C-II pumps do that if you turn the wheels side/side with the engine off.  The cap won't come off while driving.

[Jonathan]

Gary Lewis wrote

It isn't unusual to have that lip.  So take it off, but don't file the shoulder that the bearing sits on.  And make sure the bearing goes on snugly.

All the weight should be off the suspension to get the best flow of grease on the kink pins, so I'd move the jack stand to the frame - either now or later.

And the C-II pumps do that if you turn the wheels side/side with the engine off.  The cap won't come off while driving.

Thanks, I will do some test fitting after I get the new bearing and file very carefully. I really can't see how it sits now because the inner bearing is on the inside of the old rotor.

I will consider replacing that pump. For now I will try to keep the cap off when I am moving it around parked.

[Gary Lewis]

I don't know that you should remove the cap.  You may have an even bigger mess.  I haven't tried it, but I fear it'll push out even more fluid, and w/o the cap it can do that quickly.

[Jonathan]

I got the pressure washer out to clean up the years of dirt on the steering knuckle and grease fittings. It was so thick you couldn't even see much metal at all. After cleaning it up I pushed in the grease that came with my John Deere gun. It is green and I think it is a Multi-Purpose SD Polyurea Grease. I turned the steering to both extremes and center position whilst pushing fresh grease in.  At first some water came out then black grease, then green fresh grease.

I am thinking of ordering a new shock and spring. Any suggestions? The rubber bushing is shot on the shock currently on there. There are also some other deteriorating rubber bushings I am hoping I can find.

[Jonathan]

Gary Lewis wrote

I don't know that you should remove the cap.  You may have an even bigger mess.  I haven't tried it, but I fear it'll push out even more fluid, and w/o the cap it can do that quickly.

That cap just keeps blowing off anyway. I think enough spilled that it is not overflowing on the ground anymore. I will pump out and refill with fresh fluid before it goes back on the road. But I have the cap on now when I am not working on it to keep contaminates out.

[nic55kel]

Now that you have it cleaned off so nicely it is easier to see what is what.
To answer your question about is it a casting and regarding machining:
The knuckle is actually made from two pieces, the knuckle with the brake mounts and kingpin ends is probably a casting although in the early days I am sure it would have been a forging. The spindle is a machined part and is pressed into the knuckle. The seal area is machined on the knuckle boss that the spindle is pressed into.

Looking at your latest pictures the bearing surface on the spindle looks fine. If the fit is good, all is well.
As Gary says good idea to smooth edges that could damage the seal.

[Jonathan]

nic55kel wrote

Now that you have it cleaned off so nicely it is easier to see what is what.
To answer your question about is it a casting and regarding machining:
The knuckle is actually made from two pieces, the knuckle with the brake mounts and kingpin ends is probably a casting although in the early days I am sure it would have been a forging. The spindle is a machined part and is pressed into the knuckle. The seal area is machined on the knuckle boss that the spindle is pressed into.

Looking at your latest pictures the bearing surface on the spindle looks fine. If the fit is good, all is well.
As Gary says good idea to smooth edges that could damage the seal.

Thanks for the info. I noticed on the back what looked like a large flat head type grove in the back of the knuckle. I was wondering what that was about. I guess that is what is pressed in. (Pictures Attached)

I checked for play by moving the steering knuckle around and everything seems tight. Can I just lube and run with it if everything is solid? The only thing I think I need to address is the shocks and springs at this point other then the bearings and such I already ordered.

[nic55kel]

I wouldn't do anything with the kingpins unless they were loose, grease them up and enjoy.
As Gary said kingpins will last a long time if lubricated once in a while.
Yes the large flat is on the back of the spindle.

[Gary Lewis]

That cleaned up nicely.  

And I agree, lube the king pins and see how they are.  But you might try lubing them with the support for the truck in a couple of different positions.  You want to make sure you get all of the water out, and the pressure on the king pin from the weight of the truck or just the suspension on it will cause it to be hard against the knuckle in some positions.  So change the support and grease it again to make sure all of the water gets pushed out with the grease.

[Jonathan]

Gary Lewis wrote

That cleaned up nicely.  

And I agree, lube the king pins and see how they are.  But you might try lubing them with the support for the truck in a couple of different positions.  You want to make sure you get all of the water out, and the pressure on the king pin from the weight of the truck or just the suspension on it will cause it to be hard against the knuckle in some positions.  So change the support and grease it again to make sure all of the water gets pushed out with the grease.

Thanks, I will try moving it around some more. I picked up some more grease today.

[Jonathan]

Looking for some recommendations on which spring set to get.  Here are the specs. The CC820 seems more popular.

[Gary Lewis]

According to this, that grease should be good for both wheel bearings and chassis lubrication:

[Gary Lewis]

Sorry, I don't know anything about what springs to use.  Hopefully someone else will reply.

[Jonathan]

Gary Lewis wrote

According to this, that grease should be good for both wheel bearings and chassis lubrication:

Thanks for finding that Gary. I guess I could use it to pack the bearings. Just more difficult to get out of the tube then a tub.

[Gary Lewis]

Welcome.  I didn't know for sure so thought I'd read up on it.  Then I found the video and thought I should share it.

But I agree with you on the wheel bearings.  I have a bearing packer that uses a grease gun, but prefer to do it by hand from a tub of synthetic wheel bearing grease.

[Jonathan]

Gary Lewis wrote

Sorry, I don't know anything about what springs to use.  Hopefully someone else will reply.

I got the CC822. In the end it was shipping cost that decided it for me. The other spring would of had to come from another warehouse and cost $21 more for shipping.

From what I can tell the CC822 will give me a smoother ride that is less stiff.

[Jonathan]

Gary Lewis wrote

Welcome.  I didn't know for sure so thought I'd read up on it.  Then I found the video and thought I should share it.

But I agree with you on the wheel bearings.  I have a bearing packer that uses a grease gun, but prefer to do it by hand from a tub of synthetic wheel bearing grease.

 

Here is the one I have somewhere in the garage. I just need to find it.

[Jonathan]

Actually I found out that mine can be filled with a grease gun.

[rcarlisle]

Gary Lewis wrote

Welcome.  I didn't know for sure so thought I'd read up on it.  Then I found the video and thought I should share it.

But I agree with you on the wheel bearings.  I have a bearing packer that uses a grease gun, but prefer to do it by hand from a tub of synthetic wheel bearing grease.

Somehow, it is quite rewarding to pack a bearing by hand.   That glob of grease in one hand and working it in carefully, turn by turn.     

[Jonathan]

rcarlisle wrote

Gary Lewis wrote

Welcome.  I didn't know for sure so thought I'd read up on it.  Then I found the video and thought I should share it.

But I agree with you on the wheel bearings.  I have a bearing packer that uses a grease gun, but prefer to do it by hand from a tub of synthetic wheel bearing grease.

Somehow, it is quite rewarding to pack a bearing by hand.   That glob of grease in one hand and working it in carefully, turn by turn.  

I think the last time I packed a bearing by hand was in the late nineteen hundreds. I was wearing more then I got inside the bearing.