1981 Ford F100 Revival (Parked for 12 years)

[rcarlisle]

The "auto return" you mention isn't necessarily the key cylinder.   Mine doesn't alway return to the "run" position.  SOmetimes I have to turn it back.  Usually pretty easy to tell - the BRAKE light stays on and nothing else works in the truck.

I think that goes to the actual switch and there is an article on here about how to fix/adjust on that.  I got a new cylinder because felt like the key was going to fall out.  But still needs the other adjustment as well.

I haven't tried the old keys in the hood lock, but next owner of my truck will get all the keys I have.  

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Do you have tilt wheel?
That sounds more like an actuator rod, or the ignition switch spring than the key cylinder.

My cylinder was worn out to where the key would fall out while driving.
Not that it would stop running, just bloop... and my keys were on the floor.

[Gary Lewis]

Yep, I agree - switch and/or linkage problem.  The switch writeup is at Documentation/Electrical/Ignition.  But you may want to use some electrical contact cleaner on it to loosen the switch up.  The grease they put in originally tends to be pretty hard by now.

And check out the link going down to the switch.  It is supposed to clear the steering column but if it gets bent it can drag on the column.

[Jonathan]

rcarlisle wrote

The "auto return" you mention isn't necessarily the key cylinder.   Mine doesn't alway return to the "run" position.  SOmetimes I have to turn it back.  Usually pretty easy to tell - the BRAKE light stays on and nothing else works in the truck.

I think that goes to the actual switch and there is an article on here about how to fix/adjust on that.  I got a new cylinder because felt like the key was going to fall out.  But still needs the other adjustment as well.

I haven't tried the old keys in the hood lock, but next owner of my truck will get all the keys I have.

Thanks for the tip on how to tell it is not returned all the way. I will look out for that.

[Jonathan]

Gary Lewis wrote

Yep, I agree - switch and/or linkage problem.  The switch writeup is at Documentation/Electrical/Ignition.  But you may want to use some electrical contact cleaner on it to loosen the switch up.  The grease they put in originally tends to be pretty hard by now.

And check out the link going down to the switch.  It is supposed to clear the steering column but if it gets bent it can drag on the column.

Thanks, I reviewed the documents and will address it when I get to that point.

[Jonathan]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Do you have tilt wheel?
That sounds more like an actuator rod, or the ignition switch spring than the key cylinder.

My cylinder was worn out to where the key would fall out while driving.
Not that it would stop running, just bloop... and my keys were on the floor.

I don't have a tilt wheel. Your previous issue almost sounds comical if it wasn't so tragic.

[Jonathan]

I got the spare tire lock back from the locksmith. It took him three days of making keys to find a pattern that worked. It didn't help that the cylinder was hard to turn. The best part about this whole thing is that the key he made works on my doors and hood lock also. I can finally lock my dang doors! He only charged me $50 dollars, I think that must be a neighbor discount. I have started the process of prepping for paint and replacing the rubber washer that cushions the lock when you close it around the locking stud.  I also ordered a plug for the lock hole to keep dirt out.

[Jonathan]

Since I couldn't find the spare tire bolt new I did the best I could to straighten it back out. I tried to buy some nuts so I can pound on it without damaging the threads but Home Depot was sold out. I didn't feel like driving around more so I just started hitting it with a hammer and said I would worry about the threads later. I ended up smashing my finger once with a four pound hammer but I got it mostly straight. It is a little wavy but I was able to use the die to recut the threads so it would work. I painted it Ford Blue to indicate that it has to be removed when you go for the spare. I will make the lock blue also. I am not sure if it is the correct blue for my model year but I went with the brighter one so it would stand out more under the truck when you are trying to find it at night.

[Gary Lewis]

Looks good!  Well done!

So now you have one key that fits the doors, ignition, and spare tire lock?  Not bad at all for $50.

And good job on straightening that bolt.  But I'm surprised that the acetone didn't eat right through that plastic bin.  

[Jonathan]

Before I put the new brake booster in I wanted to clean the firewall. It is a good chance because later I won't have easy access. On thing turned to another and before I knew it I was painting it. I wanted a smoother surface to prevent leaks into the cab also. It didn't come out as good as I would like but it was really hard to paint and prep due to limited access.

Turns out the new brake booster does not come with a gasket that will cover the hole in the firewall all the way so I will make a gasket that will cover the hole.

Does anyone know where I can find a steering shaft firewall boot?

[Jonathan]

Gary Lewis wrote

Looks good!  Well done!

So now you have one key that fits the doors, ignition, and spare tire lock?  Not bad at all for $50.

And good job on straightening that bolt.  But I'm surprised that the acetone didn't eat right through that plastic bin.  

Thanks Gary. Yes I am surprised the acetone didn't eat through the plastic bin also. I need to see what type of plastic it is made of. I also found the brake parts cleaner from Wal-Mart is so strong I am surprised it doesn't melt metal. There is a big difference in chlorinated brake parts cleaner. If I am working close to paint I need to remember to have on hand and use non-chlorinated.

[Jonathan]

Looking for some transmission fluid change tips. Is this oil from Wal-Mart okay? Turns out I need three more gallons to be safe. I think I will flush using the radiator return after changing the filter. I will have it pump out one quart at a time and add a quart. Keep doing this until runs clear or after 4 gallons. It worked on my Camry but just wanted to see if anyone used this technique on the truck. Also which filter is best to purchase?

[Jonathan]

I am also prepping for a coolant flush, thermostat and hose change. Still trying to figure out which blue will be better for the thermostat housing. Old Ford Blue or Ford Blue?

[Gary Lewis]

I'm a fan of the darker blue.  But either way it'll look good.  

[Jonathan]

Gary Lewis wrote

I'm a fan of the darker blue.  But either way it'll look good.  

Do you know which color is period accurate for 1981?

[Gary Lewis]

See if this helps: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/My-1984-F150-2wd-Flareside-Project-Blue-Mule-tp4515p5906.html

But, if you want to read further, I did a search on the forum looking for "blue" and "engine paint".  Here's a link to the results: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/template/NamlServlet.jtp?macro=search_page&node=1&query=message%3Ablue+message%3A%22engine+paint%22&days=0

[Jonathan]

Back to the brakes again. I disconnected the clogged rubber line on the drinkers side. Cleaned out the hard line with brake cleaner and then blew it out with compressed air. I did the same for the main rear line. Both lines were capped and vacuum tested. The lines held a vacuum so I should be good to go. It started to pour down rain so I stayed somewhat dry under the truck and took my time disconnecting the lines.

[Gary Lewis]

Wait!  Are you suggesting that the driver is doing all the drinking????  

Seriously though, you are replacing the rubber lines, right?  (Sorry, I've forgotten.  )  But it appears that the hard lines are good.  You should have a very good braking system when done.

[Jonathan]

Gary Lewis wrote

See if this helps: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/My-1984-F150-2wd-Flareside-Project-Blue-Mule-tp4515p5906.html

But, if you want to read further, I did a search on the forum looking for "blue" and "engine paint".  Here's a link to the results: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/template/NamlServlet.jtp?macro=search_page&node=1&query=message%3Ablue+message%3A%22engine+paint%22&days=0

Thanks, my google searches also came back with nothing definitive. I will try the Old Ford Blue on the thermostat housing. And I will use the brighter Ford Blue on the the parts that need to be removed when removing the spare tire. I will then be able to compare them better once I paint it on something.

[Jonathan]

Gary Lewis wrote

Wait!  Are you suggesting that the driver is doing all the drinking????  

Seriously though, you are replacing the rubber lines, right?  (Sorry, I've forgotten.  )  But it appears that the hard lines are good.  You should have a very good braking system when done.

I was working on the passenger side front this weekend.  No drinking for the Captain unless just working on the truck.

I have all new rubber hoses ready. Next step will be to remove and clean up the brakes and then I will start getting fluid to them. I am still waiting for my graphic designer/artist to sketch up my custom power booster firewall gasket. I also need to cook my painted parts and start installing the new seals in the combination valve.