1981 Ford F100 Revival (Parked for 12 years)

[Jonathan]

81f100custom wrote

I put one of those drain plug kits in my 92 GMC trans pan and could not get it to quit leaking. I guess I could have tried welding it in place but I made the decision to get another pan without the hole and replaced the one I drilled the hole in. I can't recall now if it leaked both where it was in the pan and or the drain plug itself or maybe both. I just remember after dealing with it for some time and trying to get it to stop dripping I was glade to have a pan back on there with no hole in it. Maybe there are better ones out there but I did not look anymore.

Thank you for your feedback. Based on the reviews I was going to avoid that drain kit. Seems many people have had a leak problem from that kit.

[grumpin]

I bought a pan with a drain and that same gasket. I’m curious how it works for you. I haven’t had a chance to put it on yet.

My Suburban came with a permanent gasket, I think from the factory. It’s much thinner. I like it.

I’m concerned because this one is thick. May have to torque it several times to get it to settle in.

Bought a Moroso gasket for my Bronco too, haven’t got it in either.

[Jonathan]

grumpin wrote

I bought a pan with a drain and that same gasket. I’m curious how it works for you. I haven’t had a chance to put it on yet.

My Suburban came with a permanent gasket, I think from the factory. It’s much thinner. I like it.

I’m concerned because this one is thick. May have to torque it several times to get it to settle in.

Bought a Moroso gasket for my Bronco too, haven’t got it in either.

I will provide feedback after I install it.

[grumpin]

Thanks!

[Jonathan]

I started tearing into the brakes more yesterday after work. I figured in for a penny, in for a pound and went ahead and ordered rotors, pads, inner and outer bearings, dust cap and more. After looking at the rotor closer and spinning it I got more concerned with imbalance due to the amount of crud in the rotors and rust. Trying to find a matching rotor was fun. Seems everyone stocks and cares about 11" rear drum configurations. Trying to find the smaller rotor for 10" rear drum is more difficult. After some careful measuring I think I got the right one on order. AutoZone sucks at differentiating the configuration. I had to look at Oreilly's and RockAuto to figure out what is going on.

I could use some suggestions for good large calipers with long arms. Trying to measure big round things is hard to do with my current tools. I went with the (Bolt Pattern: 5 On 114.3mm) to confirm the best because that is the only thing my calipers can handle. I don't know if they mean on the center of the bolt or not because on mine that seemed like more on the outside of the bolt for the spacing. I ordered from RockAuto because nobody local stocks the smaller front rotors.

I also ordered a 20 set of sealed acorn style lug nuts for the wheels. I hope they are not too tall and will not interfere with the hub cap. For only $5.76 20 I couldn't pass that up.

[Gary Lewis]

I think you are wise to replace everything as you go on the brakes.  You'll be happy when you get it together.

As for calipers with long arms, I have the same question but no answer.

On the bolt pattern, the 114.3mm or 4.5" is not the distance between every other bolt, but the distance between the center of the wheel or hub and the bolt circle.  However, I've read that "You can also measure from the CENTER of one bolt hole to the CENTER of the third hole using a multiplier of 1.05 to find your bolt circle."  I've not done the math to prove that, but it seems to fit with what you are finding.

[Jonathan]

Gary Lewis wrote

I think you are wise to replace everything as you go on the brakes.  You'll be happy when you get it together.

As for calipers with long arms, I have the same question but no answer.

On the bolt pattern, the 114.3mm or 4.5" is not the distance between every other bolt, but the distance between the center of the wheel or hub and the bolt circle.  However, I've read that "You can also measure from the CENTER of one bolt hole to the CENTER of the third hole using a multiplier of 1.05 to find your bolt circle."  I've not done the math to prove that, but it seems to fit with what you are finding.

I will let you know if I find a good large caliper.

Thanks for the bolt pattern info. I will measure again using the information you provided.

[Jonathan]

This morning I dismantled more of the wheel spindle area. I wanted to inspect what more I may need to order and get the brake dust shield off to paint. I was very overwhelmed when I ordered the inner and outer bearings from RockAuto with the selection of grease seals. I have no idea which one I need. Looking for help to figure out what I need to order for the seal behind the inner bearing. And is there anything else I don't see I need? Should I replace the tie rod end while I have all this off? And what is under this thick coat of dirt where the wheel turns? Is there some bearings or seals I should get for this? I need technical names because this is out of my wheelhouse.  I can do the work and follow directions but need some guidance for this. Here is the bearings I ordered if it helps figure out the seal I need.

NATIONAL A12 (Standard Replacement) Bearing and Race Set; Taper Bearing Set Includes Cup and Cone Info Front Outer
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=220146&cc=1120510&pt=1672&jsn=11

NATIONAL A13 (Standard Replacement) Bearing and Race Set; Taper Bearing Set Includes Cup and Cone Info Front Inner
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=220147&cc=1120510&pt=1672&jsn=12

There is a rough sharp area circled and pointed at in the picture. Is that normal and will it have any affect on operation?

I will probably get the pressure washer out later and just blast this whole area so I can see what I am doing. It will probably save me a lot of time in prepping for painting also. 

[Jonathan]

Now I got my peepers locked in on it. I think this may be what I need. Looking for confirmation.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=254581&cc=1120510&pt=1860&jsn=1392&jsn=1392

[Jonathan]

Is this what is inside that steering knuckle? Is it called a King Pin Set?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=200996&cc=1120510&pt=7340&jsn=998&jsn=998

[Gary Lewis]

Oh, so many questions so early in the morning!  And I've not finished my 2nd cup of Joe!  

Yes, I think that is the type of seal you need, but I assume that RA says it is the right seal?

And yes, you have king pins and not ball joints.  So that's what's inside.  But king pins tend to wear very slowly, and they sometimes take a reamer to get installed correctly.  So unless you know that your king pins are worn that's something I'd leave alone at the moment.  You can always come back later and do it as a part of a front end rebuild.

Ditto the tie rod end.  You won't have to tear anything up on the wheel bearings or seals to do that, so I'd suggest getting things together and see if they need to be replaced.  But, tie rod ends are pretty easily done so if you want to do them now go for it.

As for how to do it all, follow the instructions at Documentation/Suspension & Steering/2WD Spindles.  Having said that, those instructions are from the 1985 FSM and don't say they work for the F100.  So if you have questions I could scan the 1981 FSM section and add it, which should include the F100.

[Jonathan]

Gary Lewis wrote

Oh, so many questions so early in the morning!  And I've not finished my 2nd cup of Joe!  

Yes, I think that is the type of seal you need, but I assume that RA says it is the right seal?

And yes, you have king pins and not ball joints.  So that's what's inside.  But king pins tend to wear very slowly, and they sometimes take a reamer to get installed correctly.  So unless you know that your king pins are worn that's something I'd leave alone at the moment.  You can always come back later and do it as a part of a front end rebuild.

Ditto the tie rod end.  You won't have to tear anything up on the wheel bearings or seals to do that, so I'd suggest getting things together and see if they need to be replaced.  But, tie rod ends are pretty easily done so if you want to do them now go for it.

As for how to do it all, follow the instructions at Documentation/Suspension & Steering/2WD Spindles.  Having said that, those instructions are from the 1985 FSM and don't say they work for the F100.  So if you have questions I could scan the 1981 FSM section and add it, which should include the F100.

I started at 6am. Need to get as much work in on the weekend as I can. This is dragging on so long. I really want to get this on the road. Just finished my second cup of green tea.

RockAuto says it is the right seal but so is the hundred others of seals that don't even look the same. But after looking at it in person I think it may be correct. I am going to try and drive it out and measure it to be sure.

One of the reasons I want to rebuild it is so I can clean and paint it. But I will try and pressure wash it. Those are grease fittings on the top correct? Maybe after cleaning I can pump it full of fresh grease and see how smooth it feels. If feels good maybe I will just clean it up on the truck and not paint.

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, those are grease fittings.  But don't push water from the pressure washer into all of the joints as you may not get it out with the grease.  So take it easy and don't linger too long on each thing.

[Jonathan]

Gary Lewis wrote

Yes, those are grease fittings.  But don't push water from the pressure washer into all of the joints as you may not get it out with the grease.  So take it easy and don't linger too long on each thing.

Hopefully I didn't see this too late. I already got started. But there were so many inches of dirt on it took a long time to penetrate past it. Now that I can actually see metal I'll try to be more careful. What type of grease do I need to get? I probably should grease it today to try and push out any water.

[Gary Lewis]

Good question.  I've always used a moly grease on front ends.

[nic55kel]

Hi Jonathon,
I see you are having fun learning about vehicles.

Regarding the rough area where the back of the inner bearing rests against the spindle shoulder. Hard to tell from the pictures but has that undercut the shoulder on the spindle? I would guess that at some point the inner bearing seized and spun on the spindle. Hard to tell from the pictures but the spindle diameter appears undersize where the bearing sits. The bearing should be a snug fit on the spindle. I would take my caliper and check the diameter of the spindle where the bearing sits to make sure that the surface is not tapered or reduced in diameter from having the bearing rotate on it.
If it is badly worn you may be finding out about king pins sooner than you wanted to.

Hope it is just the picture and all is well.

[Jonathan]

nic55kel wrote

Hi Jonathon,
I see you are having fun learning about vehicles.

Regarding the rough area where the back of the inner bearing rests against the spindle shoulder. Hard to tell from the pictures but has that undercut the shoulder on the spindle? I would guess that at some point the inner bearing seized and spun on the spindle. Hard to tell from the pictures but the spindle diameter appears undersize where the bearing sits. The bearing should be a snug fit on the spindle. I would take my caliper and check the diameter of the spindle where the bearing sits to make sure that the surface is not tapered or reduced in diameter from having the bearing rotate on it.
If it is badly worn you may be finding out about king pins sooner than you wanted to.

Hope it is just the picture and all is well.

Thanks for your feedback Bob. The recess seemed like it was manufactured into the surface but the lip of it seemed rough and sharp. I am not sure if it is from casting or not. Is it cast or milled? I am not good at telling these things. If it is cast do they mill it after for smooth surface? I will measure it and do a careful test fit to see how it rides.

How much of a pain is it to take apart the king pin? I pushed grease in and it seems fine though. But when moving back and forth the power steering cap kept blowing off and leaking fluid down on the ground. It doesn't look overfilled. I tried to bleed it by moving back and forth but it didn't help. Does it need to be running to bleed properly? Why does the cap keep blowing off? The fluid raises when I turn the wheel. Is there a pressure release in the cap that is not functioning?

[Jonathan]

Gary Lewis wrote

Good question.  I've always used a moly grease on front ends.

I used what was in my gun. It was green. I think it came with it so it is probably Multi-Purpose SD Polyurea Grease from John Deere. Some water came out when I did it and I just kept pumping to flush everything out.

[Gary Lewis]

I forgot the sharp lip.  You can dress it down with a small file so it won't cut the seal as it goes on.

Glad you got the water out, but you do have all of the weight off of the suspension, right?  That's what I remember of supposedly the best way to get the grease all of the way around the king pin.

As for the power steering system puking, welcome to the world of Ford's C-II pump.  All of the C-II's do that.  Another reason for a Saginaw.  

[Jonathan]

Gary Lewis wrote

I forgot the sharp lip.  You can dress it down with a small file so it won't cut the seal as it goes on.

Glad you got the water out, but you do have all of the weight off of the suspension, right?  That's what I remember of supposedly the best way to get the grease all of the way around the king pin.

As for the power steering system puking, welcome to the world of Ford's C-II pump.  All of the C-II's do that.  Another reason for a Saginaw.  

Okay, I will file it down. So that sharp lip you have heard about before? It is normal?

I have the jack stand right behind the steering knuckle on the suspension arm. But there is no direct pressure on the steering part. Is that good enough or do I need to move the jack stand to the frame behind the wheel. If you look though the pictures above you may be able to see where it is resting better.

Does the power steering only normally puke when the engine is off? Will the cap pop off when I am going down the road? Or does does the level rise because it is not running?