1981 Ford F100 Revival (Parked for 12 years)

[ArdWrknTrk]

Well that sounds like an open diff to me.

If you want to change the gear oil just suck it out and replace it with fresh.
There's no synchros or other yellow metal you have to worry about not using GL-5.

[Jonathan]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Well that sounds like an open diff to me.

If you want to change the gear oil just suck it out and replace it with fresh.
There's no synchros or other yellow metal you have to worry about not using GL-5.

Okay, thanks. I will pick it up at Wal-Mart tomorrow. I think it is probably cheaper then AutoZone.

[Jonathan]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Well that sounds like an open diff to me.

If you want to change the gear oil just suck it out and replace it with fresh.
There's no synchros or other yellow metal you have to worry about not using GL-5.

Now I am back in the house I can post more pictures. What are those plugs or covers for?

[Gary Lewis]

The knob circled below, and its mate on the other side, are where the sway bar bracket goes.  They hold the bracket and, therefore, the sway bar in place.

[Jonathan]

Gary Lewis wrote

The knob circled below, and its mate on the other side, are where the sway bar bracket goes.  They hold the bracket and, therefore, the sway bar in place.

Thank you Gary, was it a factory option or is mine missing? Any benefits to installing the sway bars?

[Jonathan]

I decided to dismantle and clean the Kelsey-Hayes Combination Valve using guidance from musclecarresearch.com. Here is the disassembly of the proportioning valve side of the valve. As you can tell there was a lot of crude inside.

[Jonathan]

Now here are pictures of the metering valve disassembly.

[Jonathan]

I wanted to clean it and let it soak in the rust solution for a few days before trying to dismantle it further. I noticed there was some pitting inside. Hopefully it is not bad enough to cause an issue.

[Jonathan]

Now it is time to remove the pressure differential switch sliding piston. You can tap the brass tube seat that is pressed into place and then using a screw, nut and washer to remove it. Just tighten the nut and it will pull it out gently. After that you can remove the other half of the pressure differential switch piston by using a punch from the other side. Mine was very stuck and took some hard blows to get it to release. In one of the last pictures I pushed them together so you can see what happens if you have a leak and the pressure difference causes it to seal the rear brakes side.

[Jonathan]

The brake lines I removed the rust in the solution and hand polished using the wire wheel between every coil of the spring. As you can imagine it took a long time to do this. I was sitting there for around three hours just polishing away. Now it is ready for some paint to protect it. I soaked and rinsed it in acetone when I was finished. The inside of the lines where cleaned with brake cleaner.

[Jonathan]

The lines and the valve body were painted in high temp paint. I need to let it dry some before I put it in the oven to cure it properly. I used primer, paint and clear coat. The drivers side brake line I painted black and the lines to the master cylinder were painted silver along with the valve. One cap for the valve I couldn't find the rubber plug so I didn't dare try to remove it and break it. So I covered it up so it wouldn't get painted and I can't heat cure that part. I covered the part where the o-ring goes too so it will seal better. The valve body flashed rusted right after the final rinse and scrub in acetone. I just painted it as fast as I could.

[Gary Lewis]

That sure looks GOOD!  How 'bout a how-to on refurbishing the combination valve?  You have the pics and the experience, and I know you can do it.

As for the sway bar, that was an option and not many of the trucks have them.

[grumpin]

Wow! Looks great!

I admire your perseverance!

[nic55kel]

That is looking impressively good. Great attention to detail.

[Jonathan]

Gary Lewis wrote

That sure looks GOOD!  How 'bout a how-to on refurbishing the combination valve?  You have the pics and the experience, and I know you can do it.

As for the sway bar, that was an option and not many of the trucks have them.

Thanks Gary. How do I go about the process of creating the how-to? Can I use full resolution pictures for better detail? I won't be able to start the how-to creation until I finish it. I still need to heat cure the valve body, change all the seals, reassemble and test.

[Jonathan]

Thank

grumpin wrote

Wow! Looks great!

I admire your perseverance!

Thank you for the positive feedback Dane. I figure it is a good chance to rebuild some parts when it is out and the truck is down. It delays the project some but I will rest easier when I know that part is not a reliability question anymore.

[Jonathan]

nic55kel wrote

That is looking impressively good. Great attention to detail.

Thanks Bob!

[Gary Lewis]

We need to put the how-to on the documentation part of the site, and we can use full resolution pictures.

Write it up and designate where which pic goes and send it to me.  I can piece it together.  Or, write it up in a Word or pdf and put the pics exactly where you want them and I'll just embed it on a page.

Your call, but we can do it.

[Jonathan]

Gary Lewis wrote

We need to put the how-to on the documentation part of the site, and we can use full resolution pictures.

Write it up and designate where which pic goes and send it to me.  I can piece it together.  Or, write it up in a Word or pdf and put the pics exactly where you want them and I'll just embed it on a page.

Your call, but we can do it.

Thanks for the info, I will keep you updated on my progress.

[Jonathan]

I changed the rear diff gear oil on Sunday. I picked up the cheapest oil AutoZone had because it was only two dollars more then Wal-Mart, so it saved me a trip. I also picked up a pump they had for the new oil. The pump was not that great, the hose kept coming off and the straw did not go down all the way to the bottom of the 1 gallon bottle. So it can only pump out three quarts before it starts sucking air. It took me over an hour of pumping by hand to get the oil out using my old Wal-Mart fluid transfer pump. It didn't help that after I cleaned off and removed the fill plug there is a lot of crap blocking you from getting the hand pump hose in. So I had to step down all the way to a moped fuel line and vacuum adapter to get the hose to the bottom. The whole process really sucked. I used the whole gallon of oil but I spilled a lot every time the pump hose popped off. I actually over filled until it was poring out. I didn't give it a chance to level off and drain because I was parked on a hill. After it was poring out I quickly put the plug back in. After the truck is level I am thinking about removing the fill plug and let it drain the excess. Please let me know your thoughts on this plan.