T2K-CAR

[Gary Lewis]

Well, if you don't have leaks then that's certainly progress.  And even if you do have leaks it might be two steps forward and one back - which is still progress.  

[85lebaront2]

I had something pop up in the Turbocharged Mopar group I am in on FB, a flashable SBEC (engine computer) built by the man who did a tremendous amount of work on the Chrysler turbo systems. It came complete with the interface cable for a PC.

That solves one of the issues I was having, being able to set up what I need for the engine as far as boost control, spark advance, fuel and the transaxle torque converter lockup clutch.

I started prepping the back of the body for the top, the area where the rear nail strip goes has some surface rust and peeling paint, so it's wire brush, rustoleum primer and white paint (area isn't visible) then a new foam "gasket". It isn't a complete seal and there is a drain trough that ultimately goes to the rocker panel drain holes.

[Gary Lewis]

Wow, that's a big "something"!  What software do you use?  Is it basically like the EEC-IV's?

As for the top, once that prep is done do you have the top ready to go on?

[85lebaront2]

Software is called MPTune and it is similar to BE but not as user friendly. First you have to have a template for the tune you wish to use which apparently loads the parameters. One of the issues, Chrysler used 3 different systems between 1984 and 1991, 1984-1987 is a two piece system, a Logic Module (brains) and a power module (brawn). The early ones are rudimentary as a lot of the controls were purely mechanical. By 1987 they were much more refined. I was using 1987 Daytona electronics on the 1985 convertible. In 1988 the system was changed to a SMEC (Single Module Engine Controller) where both parts were in one case, but still separate pieces. The LMs were not sealed as they were in the right kick panel. The program chip was usually the bottom and could be removed, a 28 pin socket installed and the chip could be changed fairly easily, like early GM systems.

With the SMEC, the logic board (main part of it) could be socketed, again with a 28 pin socket and the chip changed. On the SBEC, first there are two versions, SBEC 1 and SBEC 2, SBEC 1 is 1990-1991, SBEC 2 is 1992 until the NGC (New Generation Controller) came out. SBECs are larger memory and processor capacity, sequential rather than bank fired injection and use a data bus to communicate with other modules. The SBEC 2 units are factory flash-able like the EEC-V, the older ones require some modifications, primarily installing a Boost Button Flash Module (32 pins) in place of the 28 pin chip.

MPTune will handle all three systems.

[Gary Lewis]

So you got an SBEC-2?  And you have a support community to help you make it happen?

[85lebaront2]

No, not an SBEC-2 they use a different speed control interface, primarily the on - off control. Starting in probably 1992 and definitely by 1993, the on - off switch is a momentary contact design in the steering wheel, before that the speed control used a slide switch on the turn signal stalk off - slide on, slide further for resume and outboard of that a set button that would move the main slide switch to on if it wasn't there already.


I don't have one of the later style switches handy for a picture.

[Gary Lewis]

Makes sense to stay with the earlier unit with that switch. So you have to put the larger module on to be able to flash it?

[85lebaront2]

Yes, but I bought one with the module already installed. The board has 28 pins for the factory chip, soldered and the whole thing potted. The board has two extra spots on each side in-line with the 14 holes, just not drilled. The one I bought has the module mounted and sealed on the board.

The pins on the right end are the 4 extra pins that have to be drilled on the board with a #63 drill.

[Gary Lewis]

It is good you don't have to do that.  Not that I don't think you could, but it is just easier if you don't have to.  

[85lebaront2]

Next week I have a friend who is also into older vehicles coming over, hopefully with his 14 year old stepson so we can get the top down and install it. Hopefully it will be decent enough (it was installed on the 1985 from 2003 till 2009) to at least be reasonably weather tight. Then I will find out if the 1989 heated rear window will fit.

[Gary Lewis]

Sounds like a plan, Stan!   The extra hands will come in very handy. Hope the window fits.

[85lebaront2]

Well, the top hasn't happened yet, weather has been somewhat atrocious, rain, snow, temperatures in the teens, wind in the 20s. It will be done at some point.

In the mean time, I am trying to find some walnut grain vinyl contact paper for the switch plates in the door armrests. They originally have aluminum with black letters for the window switches. I modified the driver's side to relocate the power seat switch and the passenger side will have a blank piece as the window switches are now in the console.




The only walnut grain I have found is on Amazon and is a roughly 10' long roll.

[Gary Lewis]

Bill - I wish I had some, I'd send it to you.  But there won't be as many viewers of your post here as if you were to start a new thread in the main section.  Lots more will see it there and it won't cost anything.  But you might give them some idea of how much you need.

[85lebaront2]

Gary, that did work and I have some that is a little lighter, but looks nice on the panel inserts.

One of the items I am redoing relates to the power windows and seat. On the 1986, the power window switches were laid out relatively normally, master switch in left door armrest, one for the passenger side in that door armrest, and no switches in the back. The 1989 center console has all 4 window switches in it along with the power top and rear window defroster.

The 1986 Power seat has the switches on the outside of the lower cushion area, the 1989 convertible has them in the left door armrest, but the 1989 coupe has them in the center console. I modified the left armrest switch panel to use the 1989 coupe power seat switch, but after some further thoughts (primarily voltage drop) harness from the switch to the seat motors ended up being about 8 feet end to end, so 16 feet round trip from switch through motor and return. My solution is a set of 6 small Bosch relays that will be mounted under the seat and fed/grounded with 14ga red and black wires. This also removes 1 12ga red wire from the door harness and 6 16 ga wires, black 12 ga stays as it is the ground for the other items and was the power window switch ground. Since the relay coils can be grounded along with the 87a terminals under the seat and the relay coils work with 20 ga feeds, my door to body wiring will be a bit more compact. The switch to relay wires are nicely color coded 20 ga silicone insulated and extremely flexible.

Here is the relay block. 1 - 2 are horizontal, 3 - 4 are front vertical, 5 - 6 are rear vertical. Power and ground are the red and black "spiders" black being double, 16 ga to relay 87a and 18 ga to relay coil 85, small colored wires are 20 ga the relay coil 86.




Relays are actual later Chrysler parts.

[85lebaront2]

The other item from yesterday was a "topping off" party. Had the neighbor and his wife and two sons come over and this got done:


It still needs a nice warm day to soften the vinyl some more so I can smooth it out. Top will need to be replaced as it was originally installed on the 1985 in 2003 and has been stored since late 2009.

[Gary Lewis]

PROGRESS!!!!!!!!!!!  

The relay block is a very good idea and, as you explained, minimizes the # of wires in the run as well as the overall circuit lengths.  That should help a lot on the motors' abilities to get the job done.

And getting the top on is a huge milestone, even if you think it needs to be replaced at some point.  Just getting it on is a big step.  

[85lebaront2]

Got some more of the power seat relays done. Here is the relay block with the relays and wiring labeled:


The wiring is not done as all one piece, but is in three sections, under seat, sill plate and door. Here is the sill plate:


Here is the section inside the door and into the left kick panel connection area:


This is the switch connections and switch:



All the wiring switch to relays is 20 ga, max current load is 0.28 amps at 13.7 VDC with either of the seat up or down (both ends at once) switches actuated.

[Gary Lewis]

Looks good, Bill.  But that sure isn't much current draw.  I'm assuming that is just to pull the relays in?

[85lebaront2]

Yes, that is the relay coils, the seat circuit has a 30 amp breaker and it is possible to have two motors stalled at the end of either going full up or full down.

Biggest thing was to get rid of nearly 10 feet of wiring between the power/ground source through the switch and back to the motors. The updated system has 12 ga feed and ground to within 6" of the relay contacts where it branches to 6 16 ga power and ground feeds.

[Gary Lewis]

That ought to drive the motors quite well.