The pieces on the front of the engine are 1/4" as I didn't want to take any more than that off the timing belt tensioner base. They are doubled above and below the mount area as can be seen in the second picture. There are 5 M10X1.5 bolts holding the plate to the front of the block, one of which also holds the front upper end of the tensioner base and the mount base (triangular casting) bottom and back bolts go into the doubled 1/4" plate sections. I had to bolt them together as I do not have AL welding capability. If I can find someone who can do it at a reasonable price I will probably get it done and then have them plug weld where the M6X1.0 bolt holes are.
The top view was with a 1/4" thick piece of cardboard for making a pattern. The automatic tensioner has an M8X1.0 pitch bolt locking the spring housing in place, the bolt actually protrudes about 1/8" now so the rear plate is drilled and then with the modified base installed tapped so the bolt goes into the back plate.
On the back side of the PS mount, the outer bolt attaching it will have a brace running to one of the M10X1.5 holes for the right axle intermediate bearing support. This will be to keep the pump mount from flexing and vibrating. I have another timing belt automatic tensioner that may end up between the crank and PS pump pulleys as that will be the slack portion of the serpentine belt. I do have a couple of tensioners to play with.
Bill AKA "LOBO"
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"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional"
Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator
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