Recommended A/C parts

[derek]

Our A/C was not working when we got our truck, and we are finally to a point where it's becoming a high enough priority to check into.  

It appears that our compressor clutch is permanently engaged, it does not free spin, so we figure we need a new compressor at the very least. We are planning to pull it all apart and replace all the o-rings and flush the system, and convert to R1324a.

The blower motor works, but it sounds kinda iffy, and it only seems to really push air on high.  I have not tested this again yet since we put in the new alternator though, so it's possible it runs better now, but that's probably just wishful thinking.

The air it blows is fully hot, no indication of cooling at all, so I suspect it's not got any refrigerant left in the system.  We plan to also do the heater core bypass valve while we are working on the system, as well as probably replacing the blend door, though I don't really want to take the dash apart if we don't have to.

I believe the air correctly shifts between the vent and floor and defrost, but need to reconfirm that - sounds like that would most likely be a vacuum problem if not.

Are there any recommended compressors and blower motors you guys recommend?  And does it matter what accumulator we get?  Sounds like we should go with a red orifice tube, does that seem correct for a standard cab with 134a?  Anything else we are missing?

[mat in tn]

on your model you should have the large v belt driven compressor withe the suction line that goes over the front of the engine coming from the evaporator. it's not as common as many today and I have not looked for one yet. I don't really use a/c. so I don't mind the trucks that do not have it. odd considering I once sold and installed a/c.  if the compressor v belt pulley will not move then it's possible to be as simple as rust at the pulley/clutch or as bad as a seized compressor. either way I think that you are correct to replace. in the interest of reliability, I would recommend replacing the system as a whole. not cheap I know but not as expensive as doing it twice.
if it is factory a/c then the evaporator and all sealed components are under the hood keeping you from getting into the dash. the evaporator housing is two halves where the engine side can be removed in place and the evaporator removed. I have done full sealed swaps before and never lost a charge. not so easy on the obsolete system that you have. once you open the system you should flush the condenser or replace it. same with the evaporator. replace, not flush the accumulator/drier. new hoses as they are known for permeation well before 40 years. the red orifice tube should do fine, but I use the blue more often and there is one that is similar to a variable expansion tube intended to be more load sensing.

[grumpin]

If your looking for brand names, the aftermarket parts world is so bad I hesitate to recommend anyone.

I have had good luck with Four Seasons in the past.

I would chose the brand that's easiest for you to get a return or refund.

[FuzzFace2]

Being the truck is a 82, from your sig, it would have I believe the big square York compressor.
My 81 also used that compressor but I did not have all the motor (300 six) brackets so I went with the newer type compressor but .......

The hose fittings at the compressor were different and if I used hoses that fit the compressor they did not fit the other ends
And no you cant change the drier to match the hose as the other side is different to the evap.
I dont remember what hoses I used but was able to get a set of Ford hoses from Auto Zone to work.
Maybe if you have hoses made then using the newer type compressor would not be bad.


Ebay has adapter brackets from York to Saden compressor then just need to deal with hoses.
The newer compressor uses less power, runs smoother and is smaller.
Yes they do come with V belts think I went with a 84 unit.

As Mat said the evap can be changed out easy from the engine bay side as my last go round to get my AC working again I replaced it.
As for low / no air flow the heater & Evap coils could be plugged with junk so another reason to pull the box apart for a good cleaning.

Sorry I cant be of more help
Dave ----

ps I think I am using a blue valve and when my system works it will freeze you out.

[mat in tn]

another good point about the evap being dirty. this is a major point. the blower has a direct path of fresh air intake from the cowl when on vent or fresh air setting. without a screen. environmental dust and debris can accumulate but also leaves and larger debris. worst of all mice love to build nests in theses as they can get in easily and have shelter. they are known for carrying in felt, fabric, and any other type of insulation. this is worse in trucks left outside for long periods of time but happens in good garages too. barn finds can be the absolute worst in this case.
 the simplest way to check is to remove the blower resistor and look inside with a small mirror and a light. a scope if you have one.  this is VERY important to do because the resistor is essentially a heating element cooled by the air flow through the duct box. it has three different coils resulting in different resistances to change the blower speed coupled with a thermal fuse for fire safety. one of the reasons you may not feel air flow beyond high setting. a simple multimeter can test this. you will not like the smell of burning mice in your truck! I guarantee it!

[dirtymac]

I've been wondering myself about the air flow through the cowl.  We definitely have debris in there (mostly leaves from what we can see.  We've been considering trying to find one of the newer Bronco cowls with the smaller holes versus the big slits -- this would probably wait until we get some body work done.  That or potentially securing some type of screen to the inside of the cowl.

[derek]

mat in tn wrote

on your model you should have the large v belt driven compressor withe the suction line that goes over the front of the engine coming from the evaporator. it's not as common as many today and I have not looked for one yet. I don't really use a/c. so I don't mind the trucks that do not have it. odd considering I once sold and installed a/c.  if the compressor v belt pulley will not move then it's possible to be as simple as rust at the pulley/clutch or as bad as a seized compressor. either way I think that you are correct to replace. in the interest of reliability, I would recommend replacing the system as a whole. not cheap I know but not as expensive as doing it twice.
if it is factory a/c then the evaporator and all sealed components are under the hood keeping you from getting into the dash. the evaporator housing is two halves where the engine side can be removed in place and the evaporator removed. I have done full sealed swaps before and never lost a charge. not so easy on the obsolete system that you have. once you open the system you should flush the condenser or replace it. same with the evaporator. replace, not flush the accumulator/drier. new hoses as they are known for permeation well before 40 years. the red orifice tube should do fine, but I use the blue more often and there is one that is similar to a variable expansion tube intended to be more load sensing.

Thank you, I kinda wanted to plan to just swap everything out with new but with these parts being so hit or miss I wasn’t sure what, if anything, would be better to keep or get rid of, so this is good to know.

[derek]

I believe this is the later one, after the York, is that correct?

[mat in tn]

it is certainly different from mine. is it possibly a dealer air?

[derek]

Hmmmm.  I was under the impression it was factory air but I’m not sure where I got that so I may have just assumed it.

I will have to check a bit closer and see how to identify it.

[ratdude747]

What kind of AC controls do you have?

Most "dealer" systems have a separate A/C switch, sometimes not even with the heater controls. All factory A/C controls are part of the vent selector switch.

The compressor does look about right for the Denso FS6 that was used after the York/Tecumseh units were discontinued. But the clutch and the brackets are different from what my 1984 300 with a stock FS6 has.

[derek]

Oh yeah it’s the standard ac controls like they are shown in the documentation section, as part of the vent selector switch.

I do think our brackets would be different because of the different engines. We have the 6.6/400.

[ratdude747]

Whoops... had it in my head you had a 300 (wrong thread!).

Clutch differences aside, that's a Denso FS6 all right.

If it's like the later FS10 (like my 1995 ranger uses), the compressor shaft seal is a common issue. Tried to rebuild one once but ran outta luck due to a galled shaft (which shredded the new seal)... later one when that truck was totalled and I replaced it (another 1995 ranger), the same issue came up, and that time, I bought a new unit from denso via Rockauto. Sadly, denso no longer makes the FS6, so that's not an option.

When my 84 blew it's shaft seal (felt under clutch was soaked in PAG oil), I found a NOS Motorcraft reman for a great price on eBay. Didn't have any oil in it, so I was able to dump in the PAG needed for the R134a the system had already been converted to. Didn't include the clutch parts (which is fine, since I had replaced the entire set the year before). I still have the old one... never tore it down to see if the shaft was OK (which could be rebuilt in such a case).

[AmericanSavage]

So my Understanding is, that is the compressor is engaged and not releasing, it is low/out of refrigerant.  I could be wrong.  I am new to this.

It could also be something wrong with the accumulator switch.

What MattinTN noted is all correct.  

I would only add that the Vintage Air E-Z clip system looks VERY promising.  Can custom remake all the hoses.  

#10 for the suction, #8 for the condensor to compressor.  I may go that route.  

[grumpin]

If it's low on pressure the clutch should not engage.

[AmericanSavage]

grumpin wrote

If it's low on pressure the clutch should not engage.

so does that mean if it is low on rXXX it should only free-spin?  

[mat in tn]

absolutely. the cycle switch measures pressure. when pressure drops below the threshold the switch opens interrupting the circuit to the a/c compressor clutch. like a circuit breaker. only to be reset by the pressure returning above the close psi.

[grumpin]

What Mat said, that's why I was saying when you first service the system you will have to jumper that switch to get the compressor going.

[AmericanSavage]

OK I got it…I see jumping in my future then upon first install of refrigerant.

[mat in tn]

not always needed. I normally set up the gauges on the 134a bottle inverted on the scale with the valve still closed. And otherwise hooked to the system. then pull the vacuum. after satisfied there are no leaks, I open the bottle valve and flow in liquid by weight. this normally lets me install a full charge by weight then adjust slightly with vapor while truck is running and stabilizing. using a vent thermometer as a second opinion.