Norwegian F250, 1984, 460, 2wd

[ArdWrknTrk]

Why not unplug the taillight harness at the back of the frame, and leave the taillights alone?

If you leave the necks attached you don't have to drive yourself crazy trying to get the vent tubes correct while ALSO trying to get the bed in place.

Just my $.02

[Gary Lewis]

If the harness unplugs easily that would be better.  But on the trucks I've tried that the connectors seemed to have bonded pretty well.

And I fully agree - leave the necks attached.  FAR easier than trying to put them back on.

[FuzzFace2]

Gary Lewis wrote

I've not done it, but I think you can pull the small hex bolts as well as the hose clamp that holds the filler neck to the bed and let the filler neck stay with the frame.

On the taillights, I think you have to pull them to get to the bulb sockets, which twist into the lens itself.  So pull the lens, take the socket out, and then I think you can raise the bed.

Yes on the hex bolts for the pocket and the clamp that supports the filler hose to the used side of the bed.
Follow the filler hose and you will see the hose clamp that goes over the bed frame bracket.

On the lights the lights can stay screwed to the bed and no need to mess with the sockets.
By the left rear corner of the frame / bed there should be a plug that plugs the frame harness into the tail light harness.
Unplug the 2 harnesses there I just don't know if the tail light harness is held to the bed with clips, I think it is, or runs across the frame and held with clips?

It has been so long I cant remember about the tail light harness how it is clipped but I am pretty sure about that plug.

I forgot my trailer light harness plugs in between the frame harness & tail light harness.
I had to use the style side trucks tail light harness to make a harness for the flare side.
This is the flare side harness I made and it plugs into the frame rail harness.

BTW the frame rail harness has a plug under the brake master /booster by the frame rail / floor board.
Dave ----

[ArdWrknTrk]

I do believe the right taillight harness is clipped to the inside of the rear cross member.

Thanks for bringing that up Dave!👍

[FuzzFace2]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I do believe the right taillight harness is clipped to the inside of the rear cross member.

Thanks for bringing that up Dave!👍

If so I think it can be undone easy from the frame, unplug from the frame rail harness and be taken off with the bed. He should be able to look at it to see just how it is done.

I would think it would be to the bed, this way it comes down the line with the lights & harness on the bed, drop it on the frame, tighten the bed bolts and plug in the tail light harness and it moves on, no?
Dave ----

[ArdWrknTrk]

You may be right Dave.

It's been 5 years since I had the bed off.

[FuzzFace2]

It's been about 4 for me and I don't remember how it was on the style side truck, my flare had no (good) wiring for tail lights, heck it hardly had tail lights LOL

I also cant remember how I ran the harness I made think less than a year ago, its sad when you get old
Dave ----

[Papelione]

Hi

Ok I'm thinking the connector to the taillights was the one that was cleaned up when I had the rear back turn light problem.

In regards to the filler necks, what your saying that it might be clever taking them off close the tanks instead of close to the filler doors? there is a clamp that can be loosened by the tank and the filler necks be pulled off?

Fuel filler will be divided by red circle after loosening (10)

Should I leave small screw (8) in place and (9) will stay with the tank and (7) stays with the bed?



/C

[ArdWrknTrk]

No, no
Take them off at the filler doors.

Getting the concentric lines in place is very difficult from under the truck.

[Gary Lewis]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

No, no
Take them off at the filler doors.

Getting the concentric lines in place is very difficult from under the truck.

What he said!  

[FuzzFace2]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

No, no
Take them off at the filler doors.

Getting the concentric lines in place is very difficult from under the truck.

10-4 ON THAT!

If you open the door you have 3 screws (#8 in the picture) around the metal filler tube.
This holds the metal tube to the plastic "bucket" so if you undo them the metal tube will disconnect from the bucket.
Now from the under side follow the tube to the tanks and you should find a hose clamp holding the fuller tube assy to the bed floor, you will need to un do this before the bed comes off.

note the below screws can be rusty and may snap when trying to undo them!
The other thing you can do to remove the filler tube is undo the 2 screws (#2 in the picture) holding the door to the bed side and the other 2 screws on the other side, 4 total.
This will disconnect the bucket  from the bed side then follow the tube down to the tank for the hose clamp holding the tube to the bed floor.
Dave ----

[Papelione]

Thank you guys

Took two evenings, and thanks to your good advice I was able to, take the bed off tonight with help of a friend. No incidents:=)

Ok that was nice, started cleaning the surround around both fuel pumps, front pump is a "Airtex 2138s" which tells me that this must have been replaced at some point, and that previous owner probably also wanted to replace the rear since a loose Airtex 2089s (rear) came with the truck.

At the rear it looks like it is the original pump.

trying to get organized on what to do now.

-superlube TSV, and cancel bypass. (with new fuel hoses).
-Measure if there is any power to each of the pumps.

How would you proceed?

Best

Christian

[Gary Lewis]

Congrat's!  

The first thing I'd do is to verify that the tank switching valve is sending power to the pumps and connecting the sending units to the gauge.  You can check the latter by grounding the lead at the sending unit, obviously with the switch thrown to the tank you are testing, and you should see the gauge go to Full.

If the TSV works electrically then I'd verify that it is working to route both the supply and return lines properly.  You should be able to blow through it to test that.

If the TSV is working then you are now to a point to test the pumps and sending units.  But if you are that far in I'd pull the units out of the tanks to see what the tanks look like inside.  No sense placing the bed back on if you have a rusty tank.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Gary, by your schematic the selector relay is directly sending power to the pumps, not the tank switching valve (which only switches senders)

Christian, not necessarily "Superlube", just some kind of non-petroleum lubricant (silicone, ptfe) so the rubber seals are not rubbing dry against the shuttle.

It's much easier to R&R the pumps/sending units with the bed off.

I would check to confirm the tank selector relay is switching power from one pump to the other.
(Maybe it only needs a new relay?)

[Gary Lewis]

You are right, I'm wrong.  

Good catch, Jim.  Thanks.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'm not trying to "catch" anyone, Gary.

Just want to make it clear where the pumps are getting power.

But I'm certain Christian already knows this, as he has all the pins of the tank switching valve already mapped out.

[Gary Lewis]

I don't like being wrong, but I'd much rather someone point it out so someone else isn't getting frustrated trying to follow incorrect instructions.  That's what I mean by "catch it".  

[Papelione]

Ok

So with engine running, check to see if power is coming to the electrical plug at the pump mounts?
And if It switches between the two tanks?

Rear tank pump mount



Front tank pump mount

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yes, or you could easily check at the relay up by the brake booster.

But that might not indicate a wire fault between relay and pump

[ArdWrknTrk]

The hot fuel handling system has been through a few iterations, Gary.
It's hard to keep track.

Confusing at best, if not downright baffling to some.