Norwegian F250, 1984, 460, 2wd

[Gary Lewis]

I don't know that this valve fails to one position or the other like the 3-port valve does.  It may be motorized and stay wherever you leave.  But I would agree that it appears to be in the Front position at present.

I would disconnect the plug and use small alligator clips to put power to 5 and ground to 4.  That should cause the valve to go into the Rear position, and you should be able to determine that because 1 and 2 will be connected.

Then reverse power and ground, with power to 4 and ground to 5.  That should put it in Front and then 2 should be connected to 3.

But I don't think it will switch.  These valves are the nemesis of this system and frequently fail, and in weird ways - like pulling fuel from the front tank and returning it to the rear tank.

[ArdWrknTrk]

For cross flow (return) the seals have to fail, or crud builds up to keep them from seating.
The shuttle happens all at once (feed, return and senders) so if the senders won't switch I would say the shuttle is stuck or the motor is dead.

If all that works, we move farther down the line, and test the pumps.

[Papelione]

Ok was out under the truck now.

Power to 5 and ground to 4, used the battery with some extensions, was quite fiddely, as there is so little space. Heard a small clicking sound. But no continuity between 1-2, 2-3 still continuity.

If I am to make a conclusion, it would be that signal to the TSV is correct, but the TSV is not in order?

Would you agree?

Remember signal to the TSV with the connector unplugged was

[Gary Lewis]

Christian - Yes, I agree.  But to make 100% sure I've copied over the schematic.  It shows that placing power on the orange wire, which is your Pin 5, and ground on the brown/white, which is your Pin 4, should put it in Rear.  And that would then connect pins 1 & 2.  Since your TSV didn't do that I think it is bad.

But if it was me I'd reverse the power and ground wires and go back and forth a couple of times to see if I could get it to move.  Ordering a new one of those to Norway won't be cheap.

[ArdWrknTrk]

You got to it before I did Gary!

Great minds think alike...


Try reversing power and see if the #2 connection changes.

[Papelione]

OK

Will give it another go in the morning.

Just to make sure I'm doing it right.

Car battery 12 V: wire hooked up to + (power side) And a wire hooked to - (ground side).

alligator clips to the flat terminals 1,2,3,4,5 and touching them with the wire in said order?

Makes sense?

/Christian

[ArdWrknTrk]

Connect your meter to 2

Connect battery to +4-5, and then -4+5

Use the other probe of the meter to see if continuity from 2 shifts from 1 to 3, and back again as you swap current direction at 4 and 5

[Papelione]

Ok

guess i will have to dismantle the TSV completely, and test it on the bench.

Any risk of getting air in the fuel system? do I need to clamp the fuel lines with pliers to prevent this?

/C

[ArdWrknTrk]

I don't see why you must dismantle it.
Power it one way and check 2 to 1 & 3
Power it the other way and then check 2 to 1 & 3 again..

You have access to the pins with the connector removed.

Just energize it in each direction to see if the shuttle moves. (Contacts shift)

If no, then you know it is faulty.

Here in the US a well made replacement valve is $75 delivered.
I do not know in Norway, but I have ordered from Amazon.de and not paid exorbitant fees.

[Papelione]

Gave it another go this morning, had a better setup. So it was easier switching "POWER" -"GROUND" on terminals 4 and 5. after a couple of tries I noticed a short humming upon activating the terminals. And continuity would switch between 2-1 and 2-3 according which terminal was given power or ground.

I then tried again this afternoon, and it switches back and forth as were it a new TSV :=)

I guess this tells us the electrical side of the TSV is good, but off course no answer to if ports or valve(?) inside will switch correctly or if this or these are seized in old fuel gum.

Quite enjoy this deep dive in fuel electrical problem on my 84´

Best regards

From Narvik

8 Celsius today...........

[ArdWrknTrk]

That valve probably hasn't moved in years.
Good to give it a little exercise, but I think I might spray some silicone in the ports to lubricate the rubber.

You can blow a tube in each the return and the engine feed to see if it switches.

Autumn is still three weeks away.  😉
When is typically your first frost in the arctic circle?

[Papelione]

I guess that depends a lot on the altitude.

Was out hiking yesterday, and there was new fallen snow on the peaks (1200 meters).

Last year we got 50 cm snow on the first weekend of November.

But since Narvik is by the sea it can be mild too, sea never freezes here which why the iron ore gets shipped out of here and the reason the city of Narvik was developed.

Inland to the east is Sweden and here it is much colder and consistent throughout winter.

Do mean spray silicon into the return and engine feed, with some kind of silicon spray?

/C

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yes, this is my suggestion.

Or dab a bit of silicone grease grease in there with a cotton bud.

In the states a common tube of silicone grease is "Super Lube" but I am not familiar with which brands you have in Norway.

[Papelione]

Ok, I will give it a try, have seen super lube, guess we have something similar.

I will probably put the truck in winter storage in mid October, and don't want to stress with this job.

Im thinking if there is anything else I can check or do before that, because I am doubting if I will get done before that.

I thinking that the jobb I am looking at is replacing both in tank pumps, maybe the TSV and replacing or cleaning out the rear fuel tank if it is rusty and , and smaller things like replacing the rubber fuel lies connecting to the metal ones. And maybe removing the bed before hand so I will have good access.

Rockauto has aproximately 10 day delivery time, so it is nice to have everything in place before I begin even though, sometimes there will be an unnecessary expense.

I think there's pretty good chance I will have a functional double fuel tank setup, as it original was.

Would you agree in the above?

[ArdWrknTrk]

I think it's entirely reasonable that you can easily have this done in a month's time.
This would leave two weeks to get the parts needed.

If you were to remove the bed I would start there.
I know that my bed fasteners and clamps were in poor shape.

Test the pumps, senders and switching valve. (If needed)
Order parts: locking rings, seals, etc..
Yes, I am a firm believer in "I'd rather be looking at it than looking for it!"


Wait.
wait.
wait....

[Papelione]

Ok

Guess this is just to much fun to quit now:=)

Started today after work, with the bolts through the bed.

I have 8 of them, the two closest to the tailgate are oval and the next two square.
Luckily they where not to badly seized.



When bolts are out, Taillight will need to come off and the small bolt under the filler necks, which I can push in afterwards right?


Another positive thing was that my EVTM 1984 arrived today, will be a nice comfort to have this at home.



Best regards

[ArdWrknTrk]

Don't forget to disconnect the tail light wiring!

The lights themselves don't need to be removed, but my truck is three years younger than yours.

[Papelione]

Ok, will do so:=)

Taillight wiring and the small hexagon bolts under filler necks, they can be pushed In once bolts is removed right?

/C

[ArdWrknTrk]

The necks are just held to the underside of the filler door 'pocket' but the filler hose should be clamped to a bracket that IS part of the bed.

So you must remove the clamp as well.

[Gary Lewis]

I've not done it, but I think you can pull the small hex bolts as well as the hose clamp that holds the filler neck to the bed and let the filler neck stay with the frame.

On the taillights, I think you have to pull them to get to the bulb sockets, which twist into the lens itself.  So pull the lens, take the socket out, and then I think you can raise the bed.