In the middle of a door rehab project on my '84.
Installed new weatherstripping from LMC... not my door won't close without THROWING it. Hard. As in afraid I'll mess up the hinge hard. Seems like the front edge of the weatherstripping (by the hinges) is wadding up too tight. Is this normal for new weatherstripping? I did have to trim 1/4" off the length to make it fit...
1984 F150: 300 L6, AOD, RWD. EEC IV / TFI, Feedback Carter YFA Carb. Stock everything but radio (for now).
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I used Fairchild rubber kit and had to cut maybe 4" off.
I do have to close the right door pretty hard even after little over a year. You can try baby powder on the rubber to make it "slip" when the door is closed. After a bit the rubber should compress some and be ok after that. Dave ----
Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1 81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100 |
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In reply to this post by ratdude747
That is normal. Sometimes you have to move the striker bolt so the door doesn't close as far in. But over a period of a few weeks it'll give and the doors will close normally.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Gary, I thought he said it was the hinge side he had issues with so I don't know if your adjustment would work for him or not? Dave ----
Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1 81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100 |
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In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Oh yes, note the difference between closing the door with the windows up vs down. I'll bet there's a big difference. With Big Blue and the new weather stripping the doors have to be closed firmly - unless the windows are down. Then you can close them much easier.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by FuzzFace2
It won't make a difference on the hinge side, but in my experience it usually isn't just the hinge side. It is the whole door trying to compress the weather stripping as well as the air in the cab.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Ah.
I'll check. I also did window run channels and the outside felt "hockey stick". Window run channels were a pain. The rear window tracks aren't in right but It's all I could to to get the new channels in (wouldn't slide down, too tight and floppy.
1984 F150: 300 L6, AOD, RWD. EEC IV / TFI, Feedback Carter YFA Carb. Stock everything but radio (for now).
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Just got done with the passenger side. It already was a bear to close, now it's pretty much impossible.
Striker adjustment time?
1984 F150: 300 L6, AOD, RWD. EEC IV / TFI, Feedback Carter YFA Carb. Stock everything but radio (for now).
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Yep, loosen up on the strikers. But if you set the truck out in the sun with the doors closed the weather stripping will squish.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Done. Both doors still close hard, but at least do close. Based on witness marks the strikers had been tightened up previously (probably to deal with the wasted old seals). But now they're a lot looser than the marks... and the doors don't line up with the body lines at all.
Hopefully with time they'll break in. Ugh.
1984 F150: 300 L6, AOD, RWD. EEC IV / TFI, Feedback Carter YFA Carb. Stock everything but radio (for now).
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I did my door and window seals about a month ago. I still need to slam the doors to get them to shut. Hopefully they will compress down to normal soon. Sounds like thats just part of all new seals.
"Dumpy" 1983 F100
1986 Bronco II crawler "Oh Blessed Lady of Acceleration... dont fail me now!" - Elwood Blues |
Just tested it... much easier with the windows rolled down!
"Dumpy" 1983 F100
1986 Bronco II crawler "Oh Blessed Lady of Acceleration... dont fail me now!" - Elwood Blues |
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Yep. With everything sealed you are trying to compress the air in the cab when the windows are up. I think the 87 and later trucks had a vent to make shutting the door easier.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by Bisquik1959
Roll down the window and close the doors, if it is easier your battling the "Air Cushion" created in the cab, This is why on newer trucks, they have flapper vents on the back cabin wall. they "fart" when the door closes, letting the air pressure out.
I need to crack a window open for the doors to close.
1986 F-150 Flareside 4x4, 351, 4-v, ZF5 speed. AC, Cruise, Tilt, Slider, Digital clock, Radio, Lariat seat, Pwr doors/locks
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Learned something new. Notice them every now and then and briefly wonder 'why?' But never looked it up.
Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6 'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio |
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Big Blue is sealed so well that opening the kick panel vents or turning the HVAC system to something like Vent doesn't do much. But if you crack a window, open a wing vent, or crack open the sliding back window you get a lot of air and your ears tell you the pressure dropped.
And closing the doors takes a firm hand - unless a window is open. There is a huge difference.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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When I did my son's 83 Mustang Convertible, I put a sleeve in the bulb where the ends meet to keep them together. Couldn't hardly shut the door. So I put some vent holes in the rubber like the stock seals had. At least on my 78 they did. Shut a lot better.
Bruce aka Moose--1978 F250 LWB Flareside, Dana 60's w/ 4:10's, 460, c6
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This is an original factory seal. Note the holes. The reproductions do not have these.
'83 F150 XL Shortbox California
302 (EEC-III), AOD, 3.55 - stock original drivetrain |
In reply to this post by Bruce moose4x4
What'd you use to put the holes in with? Leather Punch?
1984 F150: 300 L6, AOD, RWD. EEC IV / TFI, Feedback Carter YFA Carb. Stock everything but radio (for now).
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The Precision brand kit I ordered has them. They are the opposite factory so they aren't seen unless you look for them. Can't say the entire Precision kit is great but have no complaints on the door seals and would recommend them without hesitation.
Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6 'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio |
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