New Weatherstripping preventing door closure?

[Rembrant]

kramttocs wrote

66gtk wrote

This is an original factory seal.  Note the holes.  The reproductions do not have these.

The Precision brand kit I ordered has them. They are the opposite factory so they aren't seen unless you look for them.

The Fairchild kit I installed has the holes also, but not on the face of the seal like above. My doors are still a bit stiff to close a year later, but they're better than they were.

I need to adjust the lip/seam on the lower A-pillar...that's where mine is tight. Might be because of my aftermarket door...not sure.

[kramttocs]

Good to know Fairchild does as well and sounds like they are in the same location as Precision.

I meant to say "They are on the opposite side from factory..."

[ratdude747]

So do the LMC ones... as I discovered, after punching some holes in the driver's side. Hidden.

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The window guide not being installed correctly has made my passenger door lock not work. The guide's hitting the outside door handle rod, which is jamming in the "open" position and blocking the unlock mechanism (and also broke the lock cylinder, but I was able to reposition the E-clip to make it work).

The driver's side isn't an issue since the tang on the window guide was busted off when I bought the truck (all that's holding the end to be in line with the rest of the track is the rubber). I took them off to install the track... but even with bending the tang a couple different ways, I can't get it to land in the rest of the track and between said track and the window rubber (jammed underneat the track, which is causing the collision. Short of chopping the tang off (and making it like the driver's side), I'm at a loss on how to fix this. I'm guessing I took the wrong approach to installing the guide rubber... I've see people spray them down with silicone spray and stuff them in (on a Honda at least)... but I was out of spray and the guides seemed too tight (and limp) for that to work in the first place.

[86 1/2 Brutus]

The same thing happened to me, and when Brutus was new it was like that.  you have to give it time to set in.  keep a window cracked just a bit and the door will close correctly.  It should take about a  month or so

[Bruce moose4x4]

I used a paper hole punch and folded the rubber and just nipped the edge of it.

[ratdude747]

Gave up and rebent the tang to go behind the track. Yeah, it's going to put a bit of vibrational load on the rubber (like already the case on the driver's side), but I couldn't get it it go in. I think the aluminums is somehow supposed to installed before the rubber, not after. After, there's too much rubber tension and not enough room to stab it...

At least my door locks are working... and the handle rod isn't rubbing.  If my run channels rip out, I guess I'll be trying this again with new aluminum pieces...  

[kramttocs]

Sorry, I am having a hard time picturing what you are running into. You are talking about the bottom rear channel that bolts to the inner door and then has a couple tabs at the top (reminds me a little of the Hot Wheels track connectors)?
If so, they should be able to go in before or after the track rubber. If after you would just have to pull the rubber out of the door track a little ways