Lighting Upgrades

[Gary Lewis]

EDIT: See this post for a more recent update from Daniel Stern.

I'm exploring lighting upgrades for Big Blue and, when the time comes, Dad's truck.  In the course of that I've done a lot of reading about the subject, particularly about headlights, and have come to several realizations that I thought I'd share here.

First, there is a whole lot of misinformation out there about lighting.  So you have to sort through what you read and determine whom to believe.  One source that I've learned to put my faith in is Daniel Stern Lighting.  In fact, I've found that Daniel is very friendly and helpful, and has responded to my emails quickly and in-depth.

Headlamps:  Basically we have three possible choices for upgrades:

Halogen: Installing a headlamp that uses the H4 replaceable bulb is a significant step up, especially if coupled with a headlamp relay system using larger wiring.  But, those headlamps vary significantly in quality, with some being classified as "junk" by Daniel saying "Stay away from it."  My old standby of Hella is said to have problems with the low beam and high beam having different aiming points such that if you adjust for the high beams the lows will be way low, and if you adjust for the low beams the highs will be too high.  But, the Cibie E-code headlamps are said to be the absolute best, with the Bosch units being good as well.

Then there is the question of what bulb to use in the headlamp.  Daniel said in an email to me:
"Generally the optimal bulbs are precision-focus, ultra high luminance 60/55w items, $43.18/pair. It's tempting to grab for big wattage numbers (100/90, etc) but it's usually not the most productive way forward; please see bulb test results posted by my colleague Virgil at http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?392498-Interesting-headlight-bulb-test-results . Overwattage low beams would not be recommendable on that truck due to the high headlamp mount height -- either you tip the aim down far enough to avoid unsafe levels of glare (and your seeing distance is minimal) or you don't (and you'll eventually get ticketed or road raged for the glare you're causing)."

However, Daniel says, and we already knew, that a major part of any upgrade to the headlamps needs to be a set of relays with much larger wiring.  He offers a kit, which has the components necessary, including ceramic sockets since the halogen bulbs get hot.

HID: On this subject Daniel said "There are no legitimate HID headlamps to fit your vehicle (just headlite-shaped toys/junk).  "HID kits" in halogen-bulb headlamps (any kit, any headlamp, any vehicle) do not work safely or effectively, which is why they are illegal whether you buy the lamps and the kit together in one go or separately. See http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html.

LED: There are basically two ways to approach this - an LED bulb as a replacement for a halogen bulb, and a purpose-built LED light that has both the reflector and bulb included.  What I've learned in my reading is that the LED bulbs that you put in the headlamp in place of a halogen bulb do not work properly at all.  And the reason is that a halogen bulb is basically a point-source when viewed from the side so the manufacturer can shape the reflector to aim the light from that point.  However, LED's are anything but point-sources and the source of the light is not where it should be, causing the reflection to go where it shouldn't.  However, the purpose-built LED units can be very good as the reflector/lens combo was designed with the exact LED light source in mind.

Daniel's comments to me were "The "LED bulb conversions" now flooding the market are not a legitimate, safe, effective, or legal product. The failure is at the concept level, not the implementation level. These are a fraudulent scam. Not capable of producing even a fraction of the amount of light produced by the filament bulb they supposedly replace, let alone producing it in the right pattern for the lamp's optics to work.

But there's a number of engineered LED headlamps on the market -- they range in quality and performance from pathetic to excellent. The king daddy of them all is the JW Speaker item in chrome https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0120QGXIO/?tag=2402507-20 or black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013588TCY/?tag=2402507-20 . If those aren't in the budget, then get the Truck-Lite item https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ED7HNY/?tag=2402507-20 . Beam focus and width aren't as good as the JW Speaker lamp (there are streaks and spots in the beam pattern), but it's still objectively a fine headlamp. LED headlamps are *not* advisable if you do a lot of wintertime driving with heavy snow and slush; the LED headlamp lenses run cold so snow and ice build up on them instead of melting off like they do from a warm halogen lamp lens.  But, in a later email he added "JW Speaker just released the newest version of their top-class LED headlamp in this size: http://www.jwspeaker.com/products/led-headlights-model-8910-evolution-2/?utm_source=homepage&utm_medium=image&utm_campaign=8910%20Evolution%202%20Launch&utm_content=slider1" .  And, he said that headlamp does have heaters so could be used in heavy snow or slush.

Turn Signals/Marker Lamps: Daniel said that he "Can also make your front sidemarker lights 80% brighter for safer all-around visibility of the vehicle, $4.59/bulb.

Your turn signals are presently invisible from the side, but there is an easy modification you can make to the front side marker lights' hookup so that they do double-duty as side markers _and_ side turn signal flashers, see http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/markerflash/markerflash.html . This is a very good safety improvement, as your turn signals become visible to the side (cars in the next lane, bicyclists, pedestrians) instead of just front- or rear-on. It is also fully road-legal.

With your two-wire side marker lights you have two options for how to do this, both described at the link. Use the logic module method (module kit $59) if you want the side markers always to flash in phase with the front and rear indicators, or use the cross-feed method (no module required, just a couple of wire connectors) if you don't mind opposite-phase flashing of the front side marker light when the parking lamps or headlamps are lit. Either way is legal throughout North America; elsewhere in the world, international rules do not permit opposite-phase flashing because it's considered potentially confusing to an observer who can see both the front and the side flashers at the same time.

Brake Lights: Daniel suggested using these: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A77TV4Q/?tag=2402507-20

Backup Lights: He suggested these in the factory postion: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TQ8H4KG/?tag=2402507-20.  And, for add-on lights since our factory backup lenses don't do much he recommended these: http://www.foxtaillights.com/product/pmc-820kc-10/.  If you want to cut the bumper, mount them in these grommets: http://www.levineautoparts.com/peterson-mounting-grommets-421-18.html.  Or, use brackets like these: http://www.levineautoparts.com/peterson-mounting-brackets-guards-421-09.html.

Day-Time Running Lights: According to Daniel "Daytime running lights significantly reduce your risk of being in a crash during the daytime, and are required equipment in Canada, throughout Europe, and in a large and growing number of other countries throughout the world because they are a very cost-effective safety device (i.e., they work). You can easily enable this functionality in your vehicle using a DRL-1 module ($59); see http://dastern.torque.net/Mods/DRL/DRL1.html for instructions and demonstration videos. This is the best way to put a daytime running light function on a vehicle not originally equipped (or which has had its headlamp-based DRLs disabled for installation of headlight relays). The module enables the steady-burning operation of both front directional signals as daytime running lights (except, of course, when you're signalling for a turn). They produce a light distribution with a wide view angle, are generally well located for DRL service at the outboard edges of the front of the vehicle, consume considerably less power than any headlamp-based DRL implementation, use light sources of generally much longer life than a headlight bulb, do not encourage improper nighttime use of lights, and do not require additional lighting devices to be added.


I'll add more as I get further into this and as I make decisions.  But, I thought I'd share what I'm learning and get your thoughts as well.

[FuzzFace2]

One of the "up grades" I will do to my 70 AMC Javelin tail lights is a crystal lens. The stock lens is flat both inside and out so the light  is bright where the bulb is and does not scatter.
Something I found on the internet, could have been 1 of the AMC sites I am on, shows an easy way to fix this.

You can get a crystal light sheet at Home depot. It is used in the 4' over head lights, they also made a frosted sheet but you want the crystal sheet.
Like this https://www.homedepot.com/p/OPTIX-Acrylic-Micro-Prism-Glaze-2-ft-x-4-ft-Lay-in-Ceiling-Light-Panel-1A90001A/207054944

You cut it to fit inside the stock lens, I cant remember if the texture went to the bulb or not? but think to the bulb as that is how it gets installed in the over head light.
I would think you could heat the part so it could be bent to fit inside a curved lens like the style side.
The flare side light lens is flat so not a big deal to get to fit inside.

I would like to go with flare side LED rear lights but for now will be using the cheap boat trailer lights as I have 2 sets and think I will do the crystal lens inside when the time comes.
May even add the LED bulbs you listed in it?
Dave ----

edit: I should have pointed out this crystal part goes between the bulb and the stock lens so when the light from the bulb hits it it scatters.

edit II: I guess this could be used in the front park/turn signal lights.

[FuzzFace2]

Did he say anything about the reflective housings of other lights like the front park/turn and the rear tail lights?

(disclaimer - I have not tried this. seen on the internet so has to be true ;) )

I know every one runs out and gets the "chrome" spray paint as it should reflect real good and turns out it is anything but chrome.
The trick is the area to be painted has to be baby butt smooth.
Then paint it with high gloss black paint. This has to be glass smooth and shinny and look like it is wet all the time.
Then you put the chrome paint over the gloss black.

It is kind of like how they do mirrors.
Dave ----

[Pebcak]

For what it might help, I ordered the two things below and I really my new headlights.  There's a substantial difference!!!

Be aware that I was sure to order the Glass instead of Plastic lenses.

The only modification I had to do was cut the rubber cups that do the moisture seal when you put the bulbs in.  Cut them so I could wrap them around the base and tuck it into place.

So far it's all looking and working great!!

I'll get pictures today when I leave work with the lights on.

Euro Clear H6054 7x6 Inch 200mm Headlights H4 Bulbs Non-Sealed

BEAMTECH H4 LED Headlight Bulb, 50W 6500K 8000 Lumens

I also completed a LED conversion with all of my bulbs inside & outside of the truck too.  If you have any specific questions or concerns let me know.

[FuzzFace2]

Found a few links that are worth reading.
http://theamcforum.com/forum/led-tail-lights_topic54834_page1.html?KW=reflector

http://theamcforum.com/forum/tail-light-updating-cheap-and-easy_topic54848_page1.html

Oh that light sheet panel is called crushed ice diffuser in clear.
Still trying to find that post but it is talked about in the first link.
Dave ----

[NotEnoughTrucks]

Met Dan years ago on a Mopar forum.He goes by Slantsixdan and he is a first rate source of info.

[Gary Lewis]

Interesting reads.  And what people are saying confirms my experience and what I've read.  First, when I put replacement LED's in Big Blue's brake light sockets I was disappointed.  I still have an LED in one side and a regular bulb in the other and it is obvious - the regular bulb is brighter.

And the reason is as has been explained - the housings and lenses were designed for the tungsten bulbs that are essentially point-sources.  But the LED's I've tried are anything but point-sources, so they do not work well in our housing.

Having said that, I will be trying those that Dan recommended.  I trust him - even if he is a MOPAR man.  (Well, I do have a Super Bee in my stable, so.....)  

[NotEnoughTrucks]

Dan's good advice aside, I think one of the best things we can do with our Bullnose trucks is to add headlight relays to take some of the load off that stock switch and wiring harness.

[Gary Lewis]

Dan is a very strong proponent of a relay harness, and has a page dedicated to them: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html.  Note the table of voltage vs lumens.

[85lebaront2]

Gary, unless the wiring on Big Blue has been intercoursed like the rest of the truck, the side markers in front, with the lights off, should blink with the turn signals, with the lights on, they blink in opposition, ie, when the signal blinks, the marker goes out. They are wired across from the park light circuit to the turn signal so ground through the turn signal filament so when the lights are on, they lose their ground.

[Gary Lewis]

In looking at the EVTM that some nice guy supplied I haven't gotten my head around that.  I fully understand what you are saying, but since I have to look at more than one page to put it all together it hasn't clicked.  But, I'll draw it out and that should do it.

And, I think the wiring is original on that part of the truck, so it should be working.

[Dyn Blin]

That is some great info in one place Gary, thank you.

I've personally gone down the HID route on other vehicles, and found that even with the best components and carefully considered installations, HID adds an extra layer of complexity and potential for failure in the  use of relays and ignitors and dedicated grounds.  The components are also easily affected by heat, something always seemingly in surplus in Bullnose engine bays. Additionally, similar to LED replacement headlight bulbs, the OEM reflector was not designed for the way light is disbursed from the HID bulb.  I've also seen heat from an HID bulb melt housings on friends' bikes.  (This can happen with using higher wattage halogen bulbs too.)

LED bulbs are getting very good, but I have yet to find one that has both a decent cutoff and good projection.  There are so many coming out now, however, I would guess if not yet, soon they will work as well or better in OEM housings.

On my Volvos, I found the Cibie housings are excellent.  I'll eventually go this route with my truck.  I like the idea of an H4 "conversion" over a sealed bulb to be able to swap burn outs easily.  No matter what though, dust always seems to find its way to the reflectors, so cleaning them every few years is a trade-off.

[Gary Lewis]

Dyn - I'm glad to see that the Cibies work as well as others have said.  I can't wait to put them in, although I'm not going to do that until I pull the engine out and re-wire as I don't want to run the heavier bulbs on the stock wiring.

But, I believe the only way an LED H4 replacement bulb can give the right cutoff and light distribution in a reflector housing is for someone to make an LED that is shaped exactly like a filament on a halogen bulb.  That's because the reflector housing has been engineered for the light source to be in exactly that position and have exactly that long, skinny shape.  And since I don't think it is physically possible to create an LED that has the same shape and light emission as a halogen filament I do not believe it is possible to have a replacement H4 LED do what it is supposed to do.

If you think about it, the shape of the filament is a point-source when viewed from the side and a wide source when viewed from the top.  And it throws as much light up, back, and down as it does forward. So the reflector has been engineered to focus that light into the right beam.

But the current replacement LEDs emit light in very different directions than the halogens.  Looking at the from the side, they emit light ahead of and behind the filament, which is the focal point of the reflector.  So the vast majority of the light they emit cannot go where it is supposed to go because it hits the reflector at the wrong angle.

Which is why the big boys, like JW Speaker and Truck-Lite, have gone to complete units for the LEDs.  They get to design a whole new reflector to accommodate the light output pattern of the LED, and add a lens that shapes the beam.  That approach does work since everything is engineered for the LED - just like the reflector housings we currently have were engineered for the shape and light output parameters of a tungsten bulb.

[85lebaront2]

Gary, I was wrong, I thought the later trucks were still like the 77 I had. On that one the markers blinked in opposition with the lights on. I suspect you could probably effect that by moving the ground from the black wire to the turn signal feed on the side you are working on.

The convertible has them that way so they blink either with or in opposition to the signals.

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks, Bill.  That would explain why I couldn't figure out how it worked.  So now I don't need to draw it out on one page instead of trying to wrap my head around three pages in the EVTM.

But, while I could change the wiring to get them to blink out of phase, as explained by Daniel here, I think I'd rather use Daniel's DRL-1 module and make them flash in phase.  And, as a bonus, I'd have daytime running lights, as shown here.

[Dyn Blin]

Gary, did you recently source the Cibies from Daniel?  

I can't find a US source that has both high and "low" (aka "dip"/"city") beams, only the off-road high-beam only.  

When you have a moment, would you post a pic of the  box and/or model #?

No hurry, I won't be ready to buy for a while.

[Gary Lewis]

Actually, I've not yet bought them - but I will and I will buy from Daniel.  In an email to me on Dec 27th he said:

Put in a set of Cibie replaceable-bulb headlamp units, $158/pair. All of the reputable-brand 200mm x 142mm headlamps presently available (Cibie, Bosch, Hella) are well made of good quality materials, but the Cibies are the most efficient, best focused, highest performing units of their type -- more detail on request. There's a great deal of junk on the market, too. Delta, Roundeyes, Adjure, Eagle Eye, Eaglite, Maxtel, Eurolite, Neolite, Autopal, Rampage, and dozens of other off-brand units mostly from China or India. Avoid all of it.

The Cibie headlamps are available either with or without a built-in parking lamp. This is a small 5w bulb ($4.59/ea) that sticks through the lamp's reflector into the lamp itself, a short distance away from the main headlight bulb, via a socket and grommet. "City light" is a common casual term for this........

So, I'm confident that he has them.  In fact, he shows them on this page.  But, if you click on Buy Them Now you'll get something that starts with:

How do I buy?
Where's the shopping cart...?

There isn't one. Send me an email and I'll be happy to get your needs handled. Ordering isn't hard; I accept credit cards and various other forms of money, and we'll discuss it once we've worked out your order.

So, send him an email at [e-mail].  He is very easy to communicate with, and he knows his stuff.

[1986F150Six]

Hmmm? I feel compelled to share what I have found to be an improvement. While making upgrades to mine or my son's trucks, I attempt to get what I can for a moderate investment.

A few years ago, I purchased Hella Vision Plus [190 X 132mm] from Amazon. They were ~$45 each, then, but now are ~$110/pair. These are DOT approved. https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-003427291-190x132mm-Conversion-Headlamp/dp/B0002M9QRE

I used the LMC headlight relay @ ~$30.

The performance is much better than original and I have no complaints with the pattern [low or high beam].

[Dyn Blin]

Thanks for that link, it's a good price point too, especially with consideration of "Prime" shipping.  I've been considering Hella, too, but had read feedback the high and low beams were difficult to "synchronize".  Your personal experience is appreciated.

What bulb do you use?

[Rembrant]

Gary Lewis wrote

Day-Time Running Lights: According to Daniel "Daytime running lights significantly reduce your risk of being in a crash during the daytime, and are required equipment in Canada, throughout Europe, and in a large and growing number of other countries throughout the world because they are a very cost-effective safety device (i.e., they work). You can easily enable this functionality in your vehicle using a DRL-1 module ($59); see http://dastern.torque.net/Mods/DRL/DRL1.html for instructions and demonstration videos. This is the best way to put a daytime running light function on a vehicle not originally equipped (or which has had its headlamp-based DRLs disabled for installation of headlight relays). The module enables the steady-burning operation of both front directional signals as daytime running lights (except, of course, when you're signalling for a turn). They produce a light distribution with a wide view angle, are generally well located for DRL service at the outboard edges of the front of the vehicle, consume considerably less power than any headlamp-based DRL implementation, use light sources of generally much longer life than a headlight bulb, do not encourage improper nighttime use of lights, and do not require additional lighting devices to be added.

Interesting read on the DRL's. As a Canadian, I'm quite used to them...but from what I've read on forums over the years, I thought they were generally disliked (and even detested) in America....kinda like the Metric system...lol. Just kiddin' guys.

The little DRL conversion modules are common...I've installed a few of them over the years. I've imported several vehicles from the US into Canada, and one of the requirements to pass the RIV inspection is to have daytime running lights (within 45 days of import), among other things.

This is an anecdotal story I know, but a couple years ago, I installed a set of Osram Nightbreaker Unlimited bulbs in my car, and decided to disable the DRL's to improve the bulb lifespan. Well, I noticed that cars seemed to be pulling out in front of me more often. It was noticeable. Anyway, I sold that car and I'm back to my DRL's now, and I'm just going to leave them intact.

Oddly though, my old '84 Bullnose has daytime running lights, and I was planning on disabling them...I've just been too lazy to look in the wiring diagram to see where I had to do it.