Hose Clamps

[Machspeed]

Hey friends, a couple years back I put a brand new radiator hoses on my truck. Recently, I noted a leak to which I ultimately traced to the upper radiator hose. While I've not removed the hose, it "appears" to be good, thus I have to think the problem may be the hose clamp itself, or just maybe a combination of both. I think the clamp I'm using is the OEM clamp (see photo), a double wire configuration but I'm not sure. I'm pretty sure the hose is a Gates replacement, as I don't usually skimp on this stuff.  

Regardless, what I am sure of is that these types of connections require a constant tension style clamp, which I do not believe is what I have with this double wire style clamp. Maybe I do, don't know.....can anyone vouch to this? Is this the correct style clamp that Ford put on our trucks?

I think I'm going to replace the hose and possibly the clamps. Can anyone make a recommendation on these items?

   

[Gary Lewis]

John - I've not gotten to the shop yet to measure the hose size as you requested, but will when the second cup of Joe is depleted.

However, I did have a leak like you are having in the same spot - upper radiator hose.  It was discussed starting in this post of Big Blue's Transformation, and it appears to have been partially due to the style of clamp I was using.

However, a few posts farther down there's this statement, and I can't tell if you have the clamp close to the "ring" or not:

Gary Lewis wrote

Thanks, guys.

Having never really thought about it until now I've not realized that there are two different modes of sealing for a hose.  There's the seal the clamp creates by compressing the hose against the barrel of the fitting, and the seal the hose makes to the ring.  As I've seen, if the hose is compromised in some way, like from a clamp with a ridge, the hose/barrel seal can leak.

And I would think that if the clamp is far enough from the ring the pressure in the hose can cause the hose to expand and lose the seal on the ring.  So that suggests that placing the clamp close to the ring might prevent the hose from expanding, and that would keep the ring/hose seal in tact.

I used to think that the ring was just to prevent the hose from sliding off, but now it seems like it is really part of the seal.

Does that make sense?

Last, I shortened Big Blue's hose by about 1" and put the clamp on the left in the pic in the post right in front of the "ring", and have had no leaks since.

[85lebaront2]

John, the constant tension clamps are the ones that are a bear to R&R unless you have the proper pliers to use on them. Here is a website that carries them: https://belmetric.com/clamp-full-tab-constant-tension-9mm-50mm/?sku=CTC44BAND12&gclid=Cj0KCQjwho-lBhC_ARIsAMpgMoemhVJ_sBqPYcyeN6qWoBTlT0jzymkmxwISKcErRtE4jpXR5iRUuT4aAoobEALw_wcB

I started using them on my Chrysler Lebaron convertible as I kept getting a lower radiator hose leak.

[Gary Lewis]

I measured the OD of the hose at that fitting on BB and it is right on 2".  

[81-F150-Explorer]

I can vouch that those two wire clamps is what Ford used from the factory.


I can also vouch that Ford changed this clamp to a universal worm type clamp.

B7AZ-8287-B  Motorcraft # YF-230 : Worm Type: fits  1 1/2" to 2 1/2"  Obsolete.

If you want genuine Ford here is a package of 10 for $197.10   YIKES

YF-230 Hose Clamps E-BAY

I personally would find another clamp that is comparable.

[ratdude747]

I actually like wire hose clamps. The "old" Panasonic Pedestal (Resistance) welders at work use them for stock cooling hose connections. A pain to service when replacing old rotten hoses, but the clamps themselves don't leak. If I could get them, I'd probably use them.

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I used to use (and still use on the water pump and water neck) "racing" clamps (the style with spot welded tabs and a machine threaded stud for tensioning). But ever since I installed a champion radiator, I've had a leak at the lower radiator connection... clamp was bottomed out and was not round (more of a lemon shape). By dumb luck, this morning is when I got around to swapping it for a more traditional hose clamp... we'll see if that helps at all. I had to make the same swap when converting to a 1985+ radiator (upper hose connection is larger) and I've had no issues with that joint. However, traditional hose clamps didn't work at the water neck or the water pump (as with regular hose clamps they leaked).

[ArdWrknTrk]

I've always been partial to the Norma embossed tooth conventional hose clamps.

They come in three widths and don't have any sharp edges.  (also available from BelMetric)

[351FUN]

The style of clamp 85lebaront2 posted is all I use anymore, with the pliers made for they they're easier than worm style which I've always hated using.  

[Machspeed]

Thanks friends! I thought the double wire clamps on my truck were original and as much as I want to keep them, I'll be removing them for constant tension style clamps. There is a good reason manufactures are using these constant tension style clamps today. Several good videos on YouTube regarding this. Here's one.

[Gary Lewis]

Interesting video.  And I tend to agree with most of what he said.  However, at 1:54 he said "And that's why manufacturers never use the worm-style clamps."  How does that square with what Ralph said: "I can also vouch that Ford changed this clamp to a universal worm type clamp."

[Machspeed]

I'm pretty sure he's talking present tense, Gary! Used in the past but not today. All the hose clamps on my Focus St are constant tension, as are those on my kid's Honda's and my wife's Murano.

[Gary Lewis]

I can buy that.  And I do know that I've had leaks from clamps I thought were tight.  So I'll start using the constant-tension ones as I put Dad's truck together.

(And, btw, there is actually miniscule progress on that as Steve/Foxford33 and I are working together to nail down the OD lockout switch.  )

[grumpin]

Our Xterra had constant tension, when I did the head gaskets on it I put worm gear clamps back on because it was so tight I couldn't get tools on most of the clamps.

Had to cut a few hoses and take them off when I got parts out of the way.

I like them, just a bear in tight spots.

[351FUN]

With the right tools they're even easier in tight spots than the worm gear ones.  One of the pliers I have has the clamping part on a short cable, and with all of them you can lock it open, so you slip it on easy and release it without having to try to get a socket or screwdriver in.

I wish all manufacturers used them, my '21 q60 has the worm gear style, but nissan is notorious for not keeping up with the times.

[81-F150-Explorer]

I can see Ford changing the clamps yet again from when our trucks were built.

Could be why the Ford Motorcraft worm type clamps is obsolete.

I can also see that the constant tension style would take all the guesswork out of tightening it, and would make installation on an assembly line much quicker and easier.


Worm type clamps have their uses though, and I'd still keep a few for emergency repairs.

--------------------------------------

P.S. I'm thinking the Ford Motorcraft worm clamps are so expensive is due to Con-cours type restorations. Any theories??

[Machspeed]

81-F150-Explorer wrote

P.S. I'm thinking the Ford Motorcraft worm clamps are so expensive is due to Con-cours type restorations. Any theories??

Naugh........eBay weasel who thinks he's sitting on a gold mine. Sad thing, somebody will buy them.

[Machspeed]

85lebaront2 wrote

John, the constant tension clamps are the ones that are a bear to R&R unless you have the proper pliers to use on them. Here is a website that carries them: https://belmetric.com/clamp-full-tab-constant-tension-9mm-50mm/?sku=CTC44BAND12&gclid=Cj0KCQjwho-lBhC_ARIsAMpgMoemhVJ_sBqPYcyeN6qWoBTlT0jzymkmxwISKcErRtE4jpXR5iRUuT4aAoobEALw_wcB

I started using them on my Chrysler Lebaron convertible as I kept getting a lower radiator hose leak.

Bill, I ordered clamps from the company that you listed. Thank you for posting it!

To all......I'll leave a response here as to what I ordered and how all this worked out. FYI, the upper radiator hose has two different measurements. Don't assume they are the same!!!

[85lebaront2]

I switched to them after dealing with a lower hose leak on my 1985 Lebaron. It was at the radiator tank but hard to see due to the intercooler and fan assembly. When a friend and I found it, he had some of these clamps so we put one on and it never leaked again.

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, I need to revive this thread 'cause someone posted "I'll leave a response here as to what I ordered and how all this worked out."  And I need to know.  

That's 'cause it looks like my power steering system leak is at the tee where the return from the frame-mounted cooler joins with the "used" return from the hydroboost and goes into the Saginaw pump.  As you can see below, I used the screw type clamps and it appears that one or more is leaking.

Following up on Bill's recommendation of Belmetric.com I see that their 16mm has a Mfrs Published Crimping Range of 15.7mm - 17.5mm.  My hose measures 16.7mm when it is on the barb, so it seems like that 16mm clamp is the right one.  Yes?

But are there better tools with which to install them than slip-joint pliers?

[JimJam300]

90 degree bent-nose pliers work okay for the smaller ones.