I've never used them but have thought about getting them.
https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/flat-band-hose-clamp-pliers or, https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/17300-flexible-hose-clamp-tool
Dane
1986 F250HD SC XLT Lariat 4x4 460 C6-Sold 1992 Bronco XLT 4x4 351W E4OD 1998 GMC Sierra SLE K1500 350 4L60E Arizona |
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Interesting, Dane. I don't think the first ones would get down in that space, although the cable one would.
But looking at the clamps I have I'm wondering about going a different direction. I have the clamps shown below, although they are still not constant tension. So is it the constant tension that is needed?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Those are nice looking clamps!
I ended up putting worm gear clamps back on the Xterra when I did the head gaskets for the same reason, lack of room and reach for tools to remove and install the constant tension clamps.
Dane
1986 F250HD SC XLT Lariat 4x4 460 C6-Sold 1992 Bronco XLT 4x4 351W E4OD 1998 GMC Sierra SLE K1500 350 4L60E Arizona |
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In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Those are the style I use on the Lebaron fuel lines due to the pressures involved (55 psi static, rising to 70 psi at 15 psi boost).
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |
I also used those types on my fuel lines. I don't know if they can get loose like worm-drive clamps but you can tighten them down much harder without damaging the hose and they seal evenly.
I've heard constant tension is for reliability during heat cycling causing hose to shrink or expand.
1982 Bronco restomod in progress: Built 4.9L, T19 4spd, 9" 3.00 rear w/ Eaton TrueTrac, 31" tires, fuel injection soon
https://www.youtube.com/@jimjamauto |
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In reply to this post by 85lebaront2
I also have the clamps shown below, which are Oetiker-style clamps and were the only ones that would hold the air hoses on the on-board air system on Big Blue given that the pressure goes to 200 psi. I tried those EFI style clamps shown above, but they just wouldn't hold at that pressure.
But there's no way to get that tool down in there to pinch them. So I think I'll use the EFI clamps.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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I never got around to responding to this thread regarding the constant tension hose clamps. Indeed, I ordered them but could not get them on with any available pliers that I have. At least, not the larger clamps for the radiator hoses. Appropriate tool cost $60 and I just could justify the expense. I merely tightened the OEM clamp which seemed to alleviate my leak.
And Gary, as you mentioned, I don't think the constant tension clamps would be right for the higher pressures of your power steering lines. I believe you're on the right path though with what you're looking at.
John
"Blackie" - 1986 F150 4x4 - Mildly warmed over 351W HO - Original owner |
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Thanks, John. Both for the update as well as the support for the direction.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by Machspeed
Just found and read this thread. Very useful stuff!
We replaced our heater core hoses yesterday and one of the crappy worm clamps I bought flattened out when I was tightening it. It didn't look too bad but it leaked. I'm hoping these constant tension clamps will do the trick. So people are using this style clamp on the radiator hoses as well? I haven't had any issues with the worm clamps there but I have been debating about replacing them with something better anywhere I have them.
Will
-- 1982 F-250 HD 4x4 400/C6 4.10 Dana61 (Borgeson/Bluetop/Lee, 3G) |
Interesting thread on hose clamps. Y'all are making me feel ashamed of all the worm gear hardware store clamps I have. I usually despise the constant tension clamps on my 2000 F350, but it's mostly due to not having the dedicated pair of pliers for them now that I see that such a thing exists.
Alan
85 F250 351 H.O./C6 86 F150 4x4 300/NP435 95 F150 302/M5OD-R2 being turned into bullnose flareside 85 F150 4x4 302/NP435 parts truck |
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In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Ford has some neat constant tension clamps they use on heater hoses on the Flexes we own. They are glued to the hoses and latched in the released position on the snake's nest of heater inlet/outlet to engine connections underhood. I had to replace one as the original plastic tees disintegrated spring coolant everywhere. The assembly wasn't too bad, $60 from the dealer. After installing it, you simply take a big screwdriver and pop the latched piece off the tang and the clamp snaps closed.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
These Oetiker clamps are the same kind as what is used on PEX plumbing (hose over barb). They work extremely well. Underground burial certified. Can definitely hold residential water pressure, withstand freeze/thaw cycles. I have seen them used on CV axle grease boots on newer vehicles.
Vivek
- BB 2WD - 1984 F350 RWD 460/C6 - 1978 Bronco with a 460 from an 86 Bullnose/C6 |
In reply to this post by thelastkeg
My failure rate with worm clamps doesn’t even register compared with the number I’ve bought and used over the years. If they look bad, rusted out, crooked, etc., I don’t use or reuse them. I have heard for years that they are garbage but my usage doesn’t show that.
With that said, I’ve seen some go horribly wrong. But they were not clamps that I personally installed
Will
-- 1982 F-250 HD 4x4 400/C6 4.10 Dana61 (Borgeson/Bluetop/Lee, 3G) |
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Try the Norma style embossed hose clamps, Will.
I've never had a problem with the screw or the radiused edges cutting into the hose. 👍 They were Mercedes OEM back in the '60's-70's. At least that's where I first encountered them)
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
We had some on our 70's Mercedes but I never had to touch them. Could be a good sign.
It sounds like you can open them up like a normal worm clamp and slip them over an existing hose. Is that the case? That would definitely be helpful for some things.
Will
-- 1982 F-250 HD 4x4 400/C6 4.10 Dana61 (Borgeson/Bluetop/Lee, 3G) |
I actually have a few Mercedes branded worm style hose clamps on a few of my Fords. I parted out an 83 Mercedes diesel car one time, and the hose clamps seemed such good quality that I saved every one of them.
Alan
85 F250 351 H.O./C6 86 F150 4x4 300/NP435 95 F150 302/M5OD-R2 being turned into bullnose flareside 85 F150 4x4 302/NP435 parts truck |
If I had felt like replacing 5 miles of vacuum hoses, we probably would have kept our 79 240D. That car hissed at me one too many times.
Will
-- 1982 F-250 HD 4x4 400/C6 4.10 Dana61 (Borgeson/Bluetop/Lee, 3G) |
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Yes, the clamps will come undone completely, so that you can fit them over an existing connection. 👍
Will, you have to try one of the old Mercedes limos that have hydraulic everything! Why is there brake fluid pouring out of the rear passenger door??? (The window motor has sprung a leak -OF COURSE!-)
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
We knew ours was vacuum everything when we got it. Things would randomly start to hiss. Pull the door apart, replace a hose. Good to go. Repeat every other week. Sunroof isn't working? Vaccum leak. It would have been a lot harder to get rid of if it had a turbo :)
Oh, did I mention the horse hair stuffed seats? So comfortable ... until they aren't. Oh and waiting weeks for parts from Germany ...
Will
-- 1982 F-250 HD 4x4 400/C6 4.10 Dana61 (Borgeson/Bluetop/Lee, 3G) |
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In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
Jim, I was lucky we never had one of the early 600s come in at Tysinger. We did have one customer with a 300SEL 6.3, complete with dual alternators and the mechanical Bosch gasoline injection.
The real live one though was the 450SEL 6.9, it had hydrauilc suspension used under license from Citroen just like Rolls-Royce. Someone put the wrong fluid in it and ruined all 5 of the accumulators (4 are for the "springs" and one is just a master accumulator). Thankfully it didn't damage the suspension struts, that would have been even worse.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |
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