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Steve - House look beautiful. Well done!
Ray - Surely that Bronco has some parts that would be helpful. So what's your friend's plan?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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He doesnt have a plan. He was just happy as a tornado in a trailer park we got it started after it sat 5 years. Ill probably start stripping it for parts. Ive considered trashing the body, and restoring the chassis. Maybe I could find another flareside to swap onto it.
1988 F250 Supercab Longbed 7.3 IDI, C6, 1356, GEARVENDORS, 4.10 Sterling with autolocker
1986 F150 302, C6, 9" 2.75, Wood Flatbed |
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The Bronco has a wheelbase of 104.7" and the shortbed is 116.8".
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Well crap. I figured they were the same.
I guess I will part it out. Or take the body off and weld a role cage around it....then roll it...
1988 F250 Supercab Longbed 7.3 IDI, C6, 1356, GEARVENDORS, 4.10 Sterling with autolocker
1986 F150 302, C6, 9" 2.75, Wood Flatbed |
This post was updated on .
GOT GARAGE HEAT? I DO!!!!
1988 F250 Supercab Longbed 7.3 IDI, C6, 1356, GEARVENDORS, 4.10 Sterling with autolocker
1986 F150 302, C6, 9" 2.75, Wood Flatbed |
Stupid meta data rotation garbage.
Well...I also found this cool hat at Rural King.
1988 F250 Supercab Longbed 7.3 IDI, C6, 1356, GEARVENDORS, 4.10 Sterling with autolocker
1986 F150 302, C6, 9" 2.75, Wood Flatbed |
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Cool hat. What are you burning in the stove?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Scrap wood from the sawmill. Pine, ash, pear, osage. Some get pretty hot, so have to go easy on the quantity in the stove.
1988 F250 Supercab Longbed 7.3 IDI, C6, 1356, GEARVENDORS, 4.10 Sterling with autolocker
1986 F150 302, C6, 9" 2.75, Wood Flatbed |
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Yeah, the mill would be a good source. There's a guy near us that has a mill like yours and he has scrap everywhere.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Speaking of wood mill. I had a 73 year old 80' pine seasoning in the back yard. Cut and capped the ends of each log 6 months ago. Moisture was down considerably but not too dry. No checking or cracks. Milled some good boards today. Hoping to let dry in the cool weather for a couple months before putting up handrail.
1988 F250 Supercab Longbed 7.3 IDI, C6, 1356, GEARVENDORS, 4.10 Sterling with autolocker
1986 F150 302, C6, 9" 2.75, Wood Flatbed |
That’s cool!
Dane
1986 F250HD SC XLT Lariat 4x4 460 C6-Sold 1992 Bronco XLT 4x4 351W E4OD 1998 GMC Sierra SLE K1500 350 4L60E Arizona |
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In reply to this post by Ray Cecil
Interesting. How do you cap the ends? Does that slow the drying? And how do you measure the moisture content?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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I use cheap latex paint. Yes, it slows the drying process so the wood dries more evenly with less cracking, checking etc. I measure the moisture content with my finger....lol. I need to get a meter. On Mon, Oct 21, 2019, 8:04 AM Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <[hidden email]> wrote: Interesting. How do you cap the ends? Does that slow the drying? And how do you measure the moisture content?
1988 F250 Supercab Longbed 7.3 IDI, C6, 1356, GEARVENDORS, 4.10 Sterling with autolocker
1986 F150 302, C6, 9" 2.75, Wood Flatbed |
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Surely there's an app for that?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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You know what, I think I have a moisture meter....yup....bought one last year. Totally forgot about that.
1988 F250 Supercab Longbed 7.3 IDI, C6, 1356, GEARVENDORS, 4.10 Sterling with autolocker
1986 F150 302, C6, 9" 2.75, Wood Flatbed |
Ive seen these wood paver floors before in assembly plants. Thinking about doing this...
https://www.woodfloorbusiness.com/installation/installing-end-grain-read-these-tips-for-this-unique-product.html
1988 F250 Supercab Longbed 7.3 IDI, C6, 1356, GEARVENDORS, 4.10 Sterling with autolocker
1986 F150 302, C6, 9" 2.75, Wood Flatbed |
Made from Black Locust. We have abundant black and honey locust in this area.
1988 F250 Supercab Longbed 7.3 IDI, C6, 1356, GEARVENDORS, 4.10 Sterling with autolocker
1986 F150 302, C6, 9" 2.75, Wood Flatbed |
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In reply to this post by Ray Cecil
That's interesting, Ray. It would look good, and you have the materials. But will it soak up oil, gas, and antifreeze that's spilled? And what about welding sparks?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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That’s cool!
Dane
1986 F250HD SC XLT Lariat 4x4 460 C6-Sold 1992 Bronco XLT 4x4 351W E4OD 1998 GMC Sierra SLE K1500 350 4L60E Arizona |
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
I am thinking of pouring some long concrete footers to move my 4 post lift back and forth on. It has casters, so I was thinking...there are only tow positions in the entire garage the lift will be in. Why not make a track that the lift can go back and forth from those two position? Then, all the cars I pull in the garage, only go to those two positions anyway. So one car or truck can fit on the lift and get rolled off to the side. The next car can sit directly on those footers. The rest of the floor can be wood paver. Yes, it would soak up oil etc. Never caused an issue at US Steel, General Electric, Caterpillar, Alcoa, GM, Ford and others. They all use this flooring on their assembly lines. When damaged I simply pull up a block with a slide hammer that has a lag screw welded to the tip of it. Replace the oil soaked piece. And be done. I don't weld very much. It would take a lot of sparks to get a solid chunk of wood to ignite. I can barely get a fire going with dry sticks and matches......don't know how I'd set the floor on fire.
1988 F250 Supercab Longbed 7.3 IDI, C6, 1356, GEARVENDORS, 4.10 Sterling with autolocker
1986 F150 302, C6, 9" 2.75, Wood Flatbed |
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