Frame is flexing on the driver's side

[CDLong]

essmaker wrote

CDLong wrote

How did you prep the metal?

I first used a wire wheel to get it as clean as I could. Then, I just sprayed on a rust reformer/primer - which I have really come to like and think it is doing a good job. After that I paint it with a coat or two...I have been using Hammered paint on frame parts.

Up here in the north with all of the salt, I try to protect anything I take off.

I lucked out. Bought the paint before I saw your post, but that's what I got.

[CDLong]

Gary Lewis wrote

Good job!  

Thanks Gary. I know some, but not a lot about our Bullnoses.

[CDLong]

CDLong wrote

Gary Lewis wrote

Good job!  

Thanks Gary. I know some, but not a lot about our Bullnoses.

The radius arm bracket is mounted with four 7/16 fine thread Grade 8 bolts and nylon lock nuts. Anti-seize was applied and torqued to 80 ft-lbs. Now I can't get the radius arm into the bracket. I have the come along hooked to the Silverado, and one- 1inch ratchet strap to lift the arm and two- 1 inch ratchet straps pulling the arm towards the passenger's side of the truck. Both straps are as tight as I can get them. Something is wrong somewhere. I'm not comfortable puttin' a come along on to pull the radius arm towards the passenger's side. I still think the bolt that retains the bottom of the coil spring needs to be loosened and the radius arm moved to aline with the bracket. Remember, this is the side that had the split plastic spacer. The passenger's side radius arm has the nut removed, both shocks are disconnected and the coil spring lock at the top has been removed. Passenger's side axle has been dropped.

[mat in tn]

maybe I'm missing something.  but I'm sorry to say that the real benefit of removing the bracket was to slip it onto the end of the arm first then bolt it to the frame. I have not had the issues you are having and not being right there I cannot see what you are fighting. two things to try. I can see that you have it pulled far enough forward. the strap pulling to the offside will do better as close to the end of the arm as possible to get the best leverage. then with it loaded, back off the come-along a link. as it moves rearward it should also turn in.

[mat in tn]

are you still on the first side? given the struggle that you are having I'm going to back up in my suggestion. the only real component that you are fighting in reality is the axle pivot bushing. is it possible that they need replacing also? if so, stop and drop the axle pivot point. It seems daunting yet it's just one more bolt. at that point you can renew it and then slip the assembly back much more easily. radius arm inserted then axle pivot reinstalled. its heavy and you WILL need another jack.

[CDLong]

If I remove the bracket, I'll need 6 inch long bolts to pull the bracket back to the frame. It would take some time to torque the two bolts down evenly so as not to deform the bracket. Even if I was to attempt that, I don't know that the arm will move. That baby is solid. I'll try the strap at the end of the arm.

[CDLong]

Yes, still on the first side. I'll have to research the axle pivot bushing. Don't know what that is.

[mat in tn]

by all means don't change plans with the straps loaded. on twin I beam and twin traction beam suspensions the inner ends are articulating on a pivot bolt through a pivot bushing and this bolt goes through a saddle on the frame. the driver side is actually mounted in front of the passenger side and the pivot mount is on the passenger side. this does sound wonky but once you look at it this way it will all make sense. the passenger side is behind and pivots on the driver side.   this "x" wing type of suspension is unique to ford. it might be fair to say that it needs pivot bushings if they have any real mileage on them but mostly that they are rubber and 40 years old. they are often overlooked.  they are not an easy replacement but with a ball joint press and patience it will go faster than expected.
PS. never walk away and leave this strapped to another vehicle. I know you wouldn't but maybe someone reading along needed to read it.

[CDLong]

Thanks Matt, I'll inspect on Sunday. Good point about tied to another vehicle. I wouldn't, but I had a good laugh thinkin' what my wife would due to me after I drug the Ford down her concrete driveway. 🤣

[mat in tn]

well crap happens! and it happens quick! after my own screw up yesterday, I'm refreshed as a safety officer haha. after getting myself sorted out and venting. I told my wife that she can expect to find the garage door locked a bit more often and to not be offended, just that I cannot handle interruptions. especially while building a transmission. that is precisely why I do transmissions as homework and engines at the shop.

[essmaker]

When I just did mine, I slipped the front bushings on, then slipped the bracket on the shaft. Between turning the steering wheel and having a jack under the axle...I was able to get the bracket to the frame with the normal bolts. At least enough to get them started and then draw it all together.

Once the bracket was secured I put on the rear bushings and nut on the shift.

I may have used a short pry bar to help line up holes, but one handed...so not a stuggle.

[CDLong]

essmaker wrote

When I just did mine, I slipped the front bushings on, then slipped the bracket on the shaft. Between turning the steering wheel and having a jack under the axle...I was able to get the bracket to the frame with the normal bolts. At least enough to get them started and then draw it all together.

Once the bracket was secured I put on the rear bushings and nut on the shift.

I may have used a short pry bar to help line up holes, but one handed...so not a stuggle.

Thanks a million, I'll try your advise.

[CDLong]

mat in tn wrote

maybe I'm missing something.  but I'm sorry to say that the real benefit of removing the bracket was to slip it onto the end of the arm first then bolt it to the frame. I have not had the issues you are having and not being right there I cannot see what you are fighting. two things to try. I can see that you have it pulled far enough forward. the strap pulling to the offside will do better as close to the end of the arm as possible to get the best leverage. then with it loaded, back off the come-along a link. as it moves rearward it should also turn in.

Matt was correct, it took two comealongs. I also used axle straps from Harbor Freight. Had I thought of it, I would have used a turn buckle to adjust the radius arm up & down instead of a ratchet strap. Ended up using the floor jack, but it got in the way. My concern now is it appears the new bushing is going to ride against the outside of the bracket. That may be why the plastic spacer broke in the first place.

[mat in tn]

you might not want to stress about this just yet. get both sides in and get the truck sitting back on its own feet with the bushings loose. drive the truck forward about ten feet while holding the brakes a little then torque the radius arm nuts. doing this helps settle them in position first. silicone spray or even armor all can help a lot too.

[CDLong]

Thanks Matt!

[essmaker]

I wonder if mine went easier because I did one side at a time with the other wheel on the ground to keep things more square?

Just surprised and feel bad for your struggle with this. Mine, aside from the cleaning and paining was maybe 45 minutes each side (not having rivet removal of course).

[CDLong]

That very well could be.

[CDLong]

Driver;s side has been completed. Used a come along to pull the axle rearward while prying radius arm over with a crowbar to aline the bushing. Anti-seized threads and tightened nut until threads were even with the nut. Decided I wasn't fighting the passenger's side, so I decided to grind the 3 rivets off. 4 1/2 inch grinder wouldn't fit to grind the bottom two rivets, so I used a Dremel tool. Made several cuts with Dremel cutting wheels and tried a cold chisel. That didn't work. Used Dremel grinding wheels. They did the job. Last rivet was a real PITA. Wouldn't budge. Drilled a small hole to center a punch on a 4-ton hydraulic jack. Still wouldn't budge. Drilled a hole into the rivet but not completely thru. Kept enlarging the hole and heating the frame until the little boogie finally came out. Frame has been painted. Rainin' now so I'm on hold.

[Gary Lewis]

Glad you got it done!

But that last rivet is exactly what I found on all my rivets - wouldn't come out w/o a hole drilled in them to relieve the side pressure against the frame.  So I used a 1/4" bit to drill about the depth of the frame and was able to punch them out - but not easily.

[mat in tn]

very good. I'm glad that you were able to complete the task that you began. I do think that you took the long way around, but a success is a success.