Frame is flexing on the driver's side

[CDLong]

Back to square one, my frame has rivets. I assume I can put a jack stand under the driver's side frame rail and have someone turn the steering wheel to see if I can find the issue? The tire is still on the passenger's side or do I need to remount the driver's side tire? Got some pics. I have outlined what might be a problem?

[mat in tn]

in the first pic it looks to be a cracked frame. I need to go look under one in the shop to see about the seams in that area to compare. the steering gear area is boxed with two halves riveted and welded in some spots with a crush support between that the three gear box bolts go through. right behind there is where some crack.

[CDLong]

Ok Matt. I'll try yo get better pics of that area. Thanks!

[CDLong]

mat in tn wrote

in the first pic it looks to be a cracked frame. I need to go look under one in the shop to see about the seams in that area to compare. the steering gear area is boxed with two halves riveted and welded in some spots with a crush support between that the three gear box bolts go through. right behind there is where some crack.

Control arm is moving up & down? I have a video but can't load it? MP4 file. I tried to email it to you but the email won't send. Ain't my day.

[mat in tn]

what are you calling a control arm? twin traction beams don't have them? there are radius arms that hold the ttb fore and aft and then there is a pitman arm mounted to the steering gear to tie to the drag link. are you seeing the pitman arm flex?

[CDLong]

mat in tn wrote

what are you calling a control arm? twin traction beams don't have them? there are radius arms that hold the ttb fore and aft and then there is a pitman arm mounted to the steering gear to tie to the drag link. are you seeing the pitman arm flex?

[CDLong]

CDLong wrote

Back to square one, my frame has rivets. I assume I can put a jack stand under the driver's side frame rail and have someone turn the steering wheel to see if I can find the issue? The tire is still on the passenger's side or do I need to remount the driver's side tire? Got some pics. I have outlined what might be a problem?

The first picture in more detail. No crack, metal over;apping metal.

[ArdWrknTrk]

That's a radius arm bushing and bracket.

[CDLong]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

That's a radius arm bushing and bracket.

Thanks Jim, is it supposed to move like it is?

[ArdWrknTrk]

My 460 4wd uses leaf springs to locate the front TTB, but I would say NO it is not meant to be sloppy.

[CDLong]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

That's a radius arm bushing and bracket.

My Granddaughter wanted to help with the Ford, (she gets her license next year and says Papaw has one cool truck), so I had her turn the steering wheel side to side while I watched the suspension. Look what rotated from the inside of the mount. Any recommendations on what to buy to replace both sides? I got a feelin' this is another can of worms I opened. Don't look like they'll just slip in.

[ArdWrknTrk]

There are any number of threads about radius arm bushing replacement, but I don't often have anything to say about the lighter coil sprung trucks.
The leaf sprung 250/350's are already "light" to me.

Someone? Anyone, want to help this gentleman???

I need to get back to my axle rebuild before the rain starts.

[CDLong]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

There are any number of threads about radius arm bushing replacement, but I don't often have anything to say about the lighter coil sprung trucks.
The leaf sprung 250/350's are already "light" to me.

Someone? Anyone, want to help this gentleman???

I need to get back to my axle rebuild before the rain starts.

Thanks Jim, from what I've found I have to remove the brackets, but I'll keep searchin'. Lookin' at purchasing these:

https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/4.7109
 
Sway Bar Bushings - Style A - 22.22mm (7/8 Inch) Diameter - 2 Inch Tall
Manufacturer: Energy Suspension
Part Number:4.5119

 https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/4.5119

[Gary Lewis]

You don't have to remove the brackets.  I've done it, and others have as well, by using a come-along or ratchet strap attached to the bumper to pull the TTB forward far enough to get the radius arm out of the bracket.

[CDLong]

Thanks Gary, I wasn't lookin' forward to removin' the brackets. An comment on the two bushing sets I thinkin' of purchasing?

[Gary Lewis]

I've used Energy Suspension bushings and mounts and like them - in black.  Big Blue came with several of them in red and I really, really didn't like that.

[CDLong]

Thanks Gary, I'm sold!

[mat in tn]

just checking in. you are definitely needing radius arm bushings. it's a very common thing at this age. like Jims knee.  Gary gave the best tip. use a come-along to pull the axle/arm assembly forward. of course, you will have the wheels off and the truck on jackstands under the frame and not the suspension. but I will add one more tip. when the radius arm comes out of the bracket it may pop out moving outward also. this may require the assistance of a ratchet strap to pull it back in line so have one handy. I like using ratchet straps because you can pull one part of the truck against the frame usually and do it controlled rather than prying against the weight of a truck on stands.
as to the "huck bolt". I see that they are rivets on yours. and that you cleaned them with a wire wheel. however, in the picture the one in the huck bolt position has a shadow and what looks to be red dusting. this may just be my perspective but check to see if anything moves in this area.

[CDLong]

mat in tn wrote

just checking in. you are definitely needing radius arm bushings. it's a very common thing at this age. like Jims knee.  Gary gave the best tip. use a come-along to pull the axle/arm assembly forward. of course, you will have the wheels off and the truck on jackstands under the frame and not the suspension. but I will add one more tip. when the radius arm comes out of the bracket it may pop out moving outward also. this may require the assistance of a ratchet strap to pull it back in line so have one handy. I like using ratchet straps because you can pull one part of the truck against the frame usually and do it controlled rather than prying against the weight of a truck on stands.
as to the "huck bolt". I see that they are rivets on yours. and that you cleaned them with a wire wheel. however, in the picture the one in the huck bolt position has a shadow and what looks to be red dusting. this may just be my perspective but check to see if anything moves in this area.

Thanks Matt, good info for me.

[CDLong]

Some more questions- Should I reuse or replace the hardware? Should I use anti-seize compound? What size is the nut on the radius arm? Gotta get a socket. Thanks!