Fixing Eddie

[firefire]

Hi. Now its easter holiday here. The snow is mostly up in the mountains were it should be.
Between 5 and 10'C in daytime. Even a little sunshine🙂. I am mostly occupied with installing a used engine in my f350. The original engine has a coolant leak from the block and an oil leak from the timing cover. Its a lot of work. And as a I dig in to it I find more and more worn out parts...And the donor engine is from a van which means there are a few parts that are not compatible with the pickup😯. A few days ago Eddie developed a ticking sound. It follows the revs.I suspected the fuel pump. But after replacing it the sound is still there. I also disconnected the ps pump, but the sound is still there. Its from the driver side of the engine. Have to look further into it. See if I can post a video.
Greetings Stein

[Gary Lewis]

Stein - Glad your weather is warming so that you can get work done on your trucks.  But that does seem like a lot of work.

On the tapping noise, might it be a lifter?  Or an exhaust leak?  Lots of times an exhaust leak sounds like a tapping noise.

[firefire]

https://youtube.com/shorts/SMWKwDzCIGA?feature=share

[Gary Lewis]

That sounds like an exhaust leak to me.  I'd try tightening up the header bolts to see if the noise changes.

[mat in tn]

classic header leak. it has the pulse of a single cylinder. look closely when it has cooled off at gaskets, plugs etc. anything in the immediate area of the head-header fitment. often a leak like this will have a little black soot around the leak point and it can soot up the anything nearby also. cameras are very helpful seeing the back and bottom of each tube. you could just re tighten all the bolts, but I like to pair the visual with that. I have seen cases where header bolts were too long for the heads and if you were to tighten a bolt(s) that is already bottomed out in your aluminum heads you might be sorry. if you don't find any loose then remove an easy one and check the depth of the head threads.

[firefire]

Hi.
Your analyses were right on. Tried to re tighten the bolts but it did not help. So had to find a new gasket to put on. Glad I have some spares of different stuff laying around🙂.   Ataching a new gasket went well. No leaks. I checked the lenght of the bolts and they went in 3 mm more than the thickness of the manifold. Also had a little oil on the treads to make it easier to tighten them hard.
To celebrate this we went for a ride and to visit a friend 🙂  Greetings Stein

[Gary Lewis]

Glad you got that fixed, Stein.  

Beautiful pic!

[firefire]

Hi.
We are in May and its getting warmer and greener around here 🙂. Finished the work on my F350 two weeks ago and she runs fine.
With Eddie there is still trouble with exhaust leak. Only a week after installing the gasket the leak was back. Cleaned the back of the headers and surface on the heads Of these 3 options I chose the Mr. Gasket Ultraseal 5930. But sorry to say that after a few trips it sounds as it is leaking. I will look at it tomorrow. Next alternativ is the Multilayer Steel .  Next thing Eddie has a coolant leak that is a little on and off.  When engine is hot there is no leak. The gasket is 2 years old. New gasket is on its way. Believe it is the gasket behind the timing cover thats leaking. We are planning for a trip to the Alps this summer. It will be with a group of american cars. So Eddie has to be sharp 🙂. So I removed the carburetor to check the torque on the manifold bolts. The bolts checked out ok. Cleaned for fried bugs Cleaned the carburetor for soot . Found the old distributor cap was near worn out. Had a new replacement. Here finished I also found a coming disaster here  Must find a way to plug this outlet. Then I went for a ride and Eddie worked flawlessly except for that ticking sound when ideling.
Next week promises nice and warm weather🙂.
Greetings Stein.

[Gary Lewis]

Stein - I hate to tell you, but I won't let anything from Mr. Gasket into my shop.  Their stuff has gotten so bad that I won't use it.  But hopefully the Multilayer Steel gaskets will work for you.

On the coolant leak, that doesn't sound like fun if you have to pull the timing cover.  But if you are going to the Alps, you'll have quite the trip and need it to be "right".

Speaking of that, where in the Alps?  Just curious as I was there last Sept/Oct.  Loved it!

On the leak at that nipple, I ran an 8mm tap through the nipple to put some "teeth" in it and filled it full of J-B Weld 8277 WaterWeld Epoxy Putty.  Crammed the epoxy in so it was coming out of nipple at the neck and then reached in the neck and flattened the epoxy against the neck.  And while I did put a vacuum cap over it for safety, it hasn't leaked a bit.

[firefire]

Hi.
Tested the mls gasket today. I could not see traces of a leak on the one I took out. But there is the same sound with the mls gasket too. I disconnected ps, alternator and ac just to make sure they did not cause the noice. And they did not ☹️😩. I fixed the leak from the nipple with a new cap and gasket sealant. It was a very tiny hole in the end of that nipple. Like a needle point. I guess your fix will be more enduring. I also replaced the hose to the expansion tank.  I am a little lost considering the exhaust leak. Will try to loosen the bolts a bit and see/ hear what happens.
The trip to the alps will be Germany, Switzerland, Italy and Austria. The Garda sea, Dolomits, several mountain passes. We will start from Oslo with ColorLine to Kiel 21. of June. The tour will be 3 weeks.
Greetings Stein

[firefire]

Hi.
I believe I found the problem.After loosening  the bolts with the motor running the  ticking sound slowly almost vanished.  So a little careful tuning of the bolts cured the problem. I had certainly tightened the bolts to much. Actually so much I was not able to torque them more.
Greetings Stein

[Gary Lewis]

Glad you found it!  Did you torque the bolts in a sequence?  I think I'd start in the center and spiral out.  But hopefully what you've done will hold.

As for "The trip to the alps will be Germany, Switzerland, Italy and Austria. The Garda sea, Dolomits, several mountain passes. We will start from Oslo with ColorLine to Kiel 21. of June. The tour will be 3 weeks."  That sounds like a whole lot of fun!

You'll be in a bunch of places we just were, from Lake Geneva on the west to Salzburg and beyond on the east.  We were down to Garda a few years ago, and Neuschwanstein as well as Fussen and the Kelstein House.  That is absolutely stunning country, and it would be such fun to drive a Bullnose through it!

It seems like such a far way from Norway there, but then I see you are taking a ferry to Kiel and driving from there.  And since we did a Baltic tour a few years ago I now realize how tightly knit that is.

Please post pictures!!!

[firefire]

Hi again.
This coming week we are " promised " very nice weather. 17. May is our national day. So I polished Eddie. Afterwards it looked like a cat fight had been going on. Afterwards we went for a ride to Ålesund. Here is a wiew towards east from the town. In the bottom of the picture you can see the boys and girls building the big bonfire for mid summer night. Aiming for a 120 feet high tower.
But unfortunately the exhaust leak was back.
Its no fun when it seemed to be ok the day before.
But I will have a go at it again🙂.
I am looking forward to the trip to the alps. We will mostly drive on the small roads. On average each trip will be 20 miles. So there will be time for museums ( car related), nice towns and much more. Neuschwanstein is in the plans. I have actually been there. It was in 1982 . I remember we were told buy the guide not to  take pictures while walking through the different rooms. I could not resist taking a picture of the ceiling in the Thronsaal right under that big chandelier. I think it were maybe 10- 15 people in that group. Mostly germans.. The guide did not hear the shutter. But a few of the other tourists did. They shrug their heads an mumbled  Es war der Norweger 🙄.
The trip will be about 230 miles. Kiel-Alps-Kiel.
The ferry takes 20 hours each way.
Greetings Stein

[Gary Lewis]

Eddie sure looks good!  But I'm not sure what you mean about the cat fight?

Bummer about the exhaust!  Have you checked the header to see that it is flat?  As said before, I'd start by torquing the bolts in the center and then spiraling out to the ends.  But the factory shop manual says: Working from the center to the ends, tighten the bolts to specifications.

As for the trip, I thought it was a lot farther to Neuschwanstein.  But last time we were there these cars were in the car park:

[firefire]

Hi.
Cat fight was referring to all the polishing yarn laying on the ground. It is more messy than using polishing paper. The cars in your picture have german plates. Do... probably means Dortmund.
Cant see that the headers are uneven/ warped but it is possible. I will check again.
Greetings Stein

[Gary Lewis]

Ahhh, now I see what you meant by cat fight.  

Good eye on the plates.  I'd noticed that they are German plates, but not the Do.  This site says "DO - Dortmund, North-Rhine-Westphalia".  According to Google Maps that is 642 KM or about 400 miles.  

[firefire]

Hi.
The saga of exhaust leak goes on. Here is the mls gasket showing where the tiny leak is. Blue colored. It is also visible on the header. This end of the header does not look good compared to the other end. I would think a gasket could seal this.  The header is also a little curved. But the leak is only at front, cylinder 5. The leak starts when engine gets hot. Right after start there is no leak. Here is shops around here that can grind the flats on the header. Maybe thats a solution ?
Something else. When it comes to warning buzzers its hard to beat this one from a -76 Scania. Low air pressure , brakes. //https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8YoP5O0Fdms
Greetings Stein

[Gary Lewis]

I think I'd see what the people that do the grinding think.  I'm not sure you'll ever get it to seal unless the grinding takes most or all of that divot out.

Perhaps they can tack weld a spot there and then grind it out?

As for the buzzer, that would get your attention!  That's a beautiful truck.  

[mat in tn]

one of the old "hacks" for header fitment was to separate the tubes. (cut the flat plate evenly between each header pipe).  this allowed each to be tightened across each gasket surface individually and usually stopped all leaks.  this would be a very hard decision for me to make on expensive or coated headers. a good mass production example of this would be fords fox body headers. imagine that.

[Clutch47]

A standing belt sander fixed some cheap hookers for me years ago.
  Remflex gaskets are very highly regarded but I have not needed them yet.
 I'd think some time spent with a good clean file could get you fairly close. 🤷‍♂️