Electric issues

[El Chapo]

Had my son turn ignition on/off for me heard/felt no clicking on the green relay, drivers side firewall. is that the fuel pump relay?

[El Chapo]

Removed Inertia switch and use multimeter on prongs reading settled on 4, shook inertia to trigger it open, no reading, pushed button closed got reading again. Assuming it’s good.?

[mat in tn]

i will double check some wiring specs. the one at the firewall under the hood is fuel pump on an 86 but mine has Both relays there in a holder holding them in a rain cover. one is the ecu relay. you have a relay dangling on carpet and it makes sense that it's for the ecu. ecu is right there also

[mat in tn]

if you have no 12v being switched on/off at the inertia switch then you will have none at the fuel pump relay. not getting from ecu or ecu relay

[Megiddo]

In trying to solve the dangling circuits in your pictures, can you show the plug configuration and describe the wire colors.  Any stripes or dots on the wires are hard to see.  Also can you tell if they are coming off your main harness or out of the EEC box/sub harness.

[El Chapo]

I’ll check for a constant 12V Thx Mat. Also found this left over part from the previous owners work I’m guessing he replaced it for some reason?

[El Chapo]

Thx for your help…here’s some close up pic hopefully it help’s looks like it’s not directly coming off the ecu but from the same harness Color’s appears to be red, tan & black

[El Chapo]

Yet another dangle coming from the inside the cab firewall looks like similar type of connector. Close to column base

[Gary Lewis]

That is the connector to the trailer electric brake controller.

[Megiddo]

The left over part is the turn signal switch.  A new one will have all the wires that run down the steering column about a foot or so to a curved connector (C305)

[Megiddo]

My best guess at your dangler is that is connector c327.  Thats the only grey 3 pin connector listed in the center of the instrument panel.  Its shown on page 125 and 130 with the HVAC controls, but in both diagrams it looks like its not plugged into anything.  Maybe it was just put in to be a dangler.

[El Chapo]

Found this sketchy fuseabe link, so I bypassed it and now I can hear the pumps. Fuel relay still not clicking on though and no start.

[El Chapo]

I checked the schrader valve and it was dry then removed the fuel line at the filter engine side and got me a gas shower!!! I was prepared but yeah pressure I thinking that’s a good sign so far!

[Gary Lewis]

Sounds like you are making good progress.  But be careful bypassing a fuse link.  There's a reason it burned, and you may melt something down if it comes back.

[El Chapo]

Oh thank you yes was wondering about that, I assume I can replace it I’ll see if I can find one any recommendations would be awesome

[Gary Lewis]

The parts stores used to stock fuse link wire.  It is a smaller wire than everything else and has a fireproof insulation.

[mat in tn]

I still am not settled on why a fusible link instead of just using a fuse in a holder. it must have been a financial thing, but a fuse is so much easier to find and diagnose.

[Gary Lewis]

I replaced most of the fusible links in Big Blue with fuses - and I've had no problems.

However, I've read that fusible links can handle a much larger surge of power before blowing than normal fuses can.

By the mid-90's Ford had pretty well converted over to fuses - with at least one exception: the #2 wire connecting the alternator to the power distribution box on the driver's fender.  They used two fuse links in parallel to protect that run.

[El Chapo]

Good point, I did see those online while looking, but picked one up at NAPA. Btw: not a financial thing.

[El Chapo]

Good recommendations thank you and as I get further into it I’ll switch over. To fuses makes sense to me. Any reason why pumps go on but the relay doesn’t click? still “no start” even with fuel pressure in the line as described earlier and dry schrader valve.