Electric issues

[mat in tn]

I'm not sure what you are showing here. nothing to do with the steering column though.

[El Chapo]

Yea haven’t busted into the column yet, was just showing some of the many - many loose / cut wires, I keep finding I’m thinking they have to go somewhere? I hope my problem will be solved in the column.

[El Chapo]

Good morning,
I lowered the column where as I could see where the rod connects to what I believe is the actuator?
Mounted to the column by two bolts. The rod itself doesn’t appear to be in any kind of bind but yet requires a bit of effort to get to turn especially to get where the engine turns.

[mat in tn]

the picture shows the rod and the ignition switch with the plug still hooked to it. the actuator is in the column just under the steering wheel at the point where it pivots.  understand that this is not an easy piece to replace.
start by loosening the two 7/16" nuts holding the switch in place (mark its position first) and see if things get any easier to move and whether the rod may be binding there or not.

[Gary Lewis]

If you loosen those nuts you might want to re-adjust the position of the switch,  We have the factory shop manual directions on the Ignition Switch tab on the page at Documentation/Electrical/Ignition.

[El Chapo]

Thank you May and Gary very much..”I’m no mechanic by a long shot but have a good inclination and will not turn away from a respectable challenge. My theory “it was already broken” so all I can do now is fix it! I’ll follow your suggestions thx again!

[El Chapo]

Correction *Mat and Gary

[Gary Lewis]

[mat in tn]

if you only knew how many times, I have to make corrections. and don't get me started about trying to work on a smart phone

[El Chapo]

Yup more good advice thx much better to do this on a laptop.

[El Chapo]

A thought just occurred to me and wanted to in check, I realize I may need an actuator replacement and I’m up to that but, is that going to help resolve or related to my electrical/fuel pump issues. Even though my ignition is sticky I can still turn it to the point where the engine cranks but will not start.

[mat in tn]

i went back and refreshed myself with the beginning of the conversation. it's true that they can get offline sometimes especially over a couple days. new pumps, new filter, no click from relay from the ignition switch.
 I go back to the basics. ecu relay gets power first, then the fuel pump relay gets power from the ecu by way of the inertia switch for three seconds until run is detected then ecu sends power to fuel pump relay continuously.
 look for 12v at the ignition side of the ecu relay. if 12v then move to fuel pump relay. please note that there is a constant 12v wire/terminal at each relay. that is battery side waiting for the relay to be turned on. you are looking for a switched 12v from the key switch. look up the wiring diagram for your model here and you can find the colors to look for

[Megiddo]

I'm a novice at this, but I did cannibalize an '86 harness about 2 years ago to fix some of my issues.
My thought is that the ignition switch actuated by the push rod may have a bad connection at "run".  that would allow you to crank, but not keep power after you release the key.  

Specifically circuit 16 (Red/Lt Green) powers the fuel tank selector and warning lights via the fuse box.

Circuits also on the "Run" position:
  20 (W/LB H) is ignition (Directly, I think)
297 (BK/LG H) wipers, radio, CLOCK via fuse box
687 (GY/Y) HVAC, Stop, turn lights via fuse box

"Start" position also powers 16 so you could initially get power depending on your key position.

I had a cracked plastic housing on my starter switch (the one bolted to the column) and mud dobber nests along the push rod making my key switch fincky.
 

[mat in tn]

i just collected a column from an 83, a tilt wheel for my project and I will be restoring it soon. I will be taking pictures and if any info is needed, I will try to help

[El Chapo]

Thanks for the feedback I appreciate all the help I can get.

[El Chapo]

A bit of progress I think… I’m able to hear and feel a click in the relay by connecting a loose black wire to the negative post of my battery. Not sure where the other connector in the picture goes the one with a red wire. But still no power to pump. Also I removed the inertia switch to inspect it and noticed that if I shake it I hear something hard rattling but then I can engage the white button by pushing down, not sure it’s suppose to do that or it proves anything.

[El Chapo]

[El Chapo]

Here’s a previous loose black wire I connected together with blue connector Then to neg battery post. also there’s some kind of plug which I think was part of this connection?

[mat in tn]

the inertia switch is a funny one. you really need to test it with an ohm meter or voltage. you push the button down to engage it yet when you jar it or shake it the safety device pops the button and opens the contact. it is so in a crash where an impact is harsh enough to possibly damage fuel lines the pump gets turned off so not to feed the fire. test it after an impact and it should have no reading. push the reset button then you should have continuity. if so, reinstall.

[El Chapo]

Not sure how to test the inertia switch so I removed the plug and got no reading ignition on/off.