Door/Rear Window Glass Problem

[ckuske]

This isn't the first and certainly won't be the last time I've done something dumb while working on this truck. (or in life in general)

I've been talking to a local area glass guy to get my rear sliding window repaired - new felt channel, weather stripping, etc.  He noticed there were lots of hard water spots on the rear window, and the passenger side vent window and door glass.  I told them they have been there since the 90s when sprinklers would hit the truck at night.

He suggested using a mild abrasive (Barkeeper's Friend) with #0000 steel wool to remove the water spots as all chemical options I've tried have failed, as well as plenty of elbow grease.

To see the spots, you had to be at a 30 degree angle or better.  So, I used his technique and went to town using this angle to see if I was making progress.  The results seemed look great - still some spots, but a big improvement.  But now after cleaning the abrasive residue off etc, when I look at a more head on, I can see I've put a bunch of fine scratches into the glass that look "hazy".  Thankfully I didn't do anything to the drivers side or windshield, as there was nothing wrong there.

See pictures below.  Is there hope to fix this with an orbital polisher etc, or should I start trying to find replacement glass?  I'd prefer OE, but I guess I can't be choosey now...   I see a NOS slider on eBay for $1400(!), but if anyone has a slider with good glass, even if the rest of the slider isn't in great shape, I'd be interested...

[Gary Lewis]

Chris - There are a number of abrasives for polishing glass.  I've tried them but haven't had a lot of luck, but hopefully others have.

But I might have a slider for you.  I'll check tomorrow.  But it might be best for me to just ship the glass - if I have an extra.  As said, I'll check tomorrow.

[ckuske]

Thanks, Gary.  I had the same thought about using another abrasive, but I'm a bit gun shy now....  I don't want to make it any worse before I try to make it better. (Maybe I could take it to this local guy and he can polish it up and fix it assuming I don't make it worse first)

I can probably find the passenger glass pretty easily in a junkyard around here.  There aren't a lot of Bullnoses around anymore, but a decent amount of Bricks.  Looking at the MPC, it seems the glass changed after 86?

I know the slider is different after a certain point, as the glass guy had a nice slider he was going to give me, but it was for either something newer than an 86 or a 91.  (91, I think)

[Gary Lewis]

I think it is the other way around.  The door glass is different because the vent window size changed.  But the slider size was the same for many years.

So I think the slider the guy has may be right.  Classic Industries says they fit from 1973 - 97.

[ArdWrknTrk]

The glass polishing abrasive is cerium oxide, but I've had good luck with Simichrome polish (toothpaste like tube)

The sliders went from two moving panels to a single center panel, where the sides are wider than the old ones.

Aftermarket sliders fit the solid glass gasket, where factory sliders have a gasket that has a 1/2" or more channel for the aluminum frame.

[grumpin]

I've not done glass, but plastic, and you have to keep going finer until you can't see it or barely see it.

Jim mentioned some polishers. Polishing should help.

I've had good luck cleaning old windshields with the Mothers Speed Clay Bar.

https://mothers.com/collections/speed/products/speed-clay-2-17240

[ckuske]

Thanks for that, I'll take a look.  I guess if it's screwed up already and I'm looking for replacements, it doesn't hurt to try.

My main issue with the aftermarket sliders is they are mainly grey or solar glass.  I want the green tint, and after a bit of digging, I ran across this:

https://www.dkhardware.com/oem-replacement-duo-vent-four-panel-slider-with-light-green-glass-for-1973-1996-ford-f-series-7130et-product-28289.html

The only bummer as you mention is the different gasket.  I would like to retain the chrome insert, and that won't be a possibility if I get the aftermarket slider.  The other nitpicky thing is I like having the Carlite etching on the glass - I have found replacement door/vent glass, but obviously that will be missing from the replacements and won't match the rest of the car (can you tell this is more of a passion project than a work truck thing?! haha)

So I think at the end of the day if the cerium oxide doesn't work out, I'm on the hunt for OE glass.  If all else fails, then the aftermarket slider above will work, but I'll be pretty disappointed that I caused this...  

[ckuske]

Ok, I ordered some cerium oxide, I'll give that a shot tomorrow and go from there.  I saw some mentions of using a clay bar also, so that will be the next possible solution.

The scratches are super fine, so I'm hoping this will work.  

I guess I just used too much pressure with the steel wool... (duh) but I wasn't getting any results after an hour of trying lighter pressure...

[mat in tn]

I have also used steel wool but very sparingly. I know how well it cuts paint and if its abrasive enough for that is certainly possible to fog glass. using the glass polish should work nicely. if you have any available you might even try flitz metal polish. it has worked well in small spots for me. like on door mirrors.

[ckuske]

Thanks for the tip on Simichrome, Jim. I just tried to order some from Amazon and says it can't be shipped to my location (insert California joke here).  It looks like the Flitz can be ordered though, that'll go onto the list also.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I have an aftermarket (CRL) slider and the 'chrome' locking insert....

I think I bought that setup (plus the stainless joiner clip from LMC.
The window came from eBay.

I use a magic eraser on dirty or paint over spray glass.
It works well enough and the melamine foam won't scratch...  💡

[85lebaront2]

Vent window changed and the door glass is shorter front to back due to the wider rear portion of the wing vent frame, which I believe started in 1987 (Jim may know) The 1990 parts truck had the wider rear part of the vent window frame. Wing vent changed due to the 1993-97 dash change (hump on driver's side) and the power side mirror option.

Cab rear window opening is the same from 1980 to 1997, Darth has a rear power slider from a 1996 F350 installed. Old one piece window was left with the salvage yard (Pete's) to be used or sold.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yes, my 87 is a good 1 1/2" between the vent and door glass.

Bill is correct that it is the dash that made the vent window go away and the mirror got moved off the door skin where it was always tearing the sheet metal.

The rear glass is consistent across the whole range until the refresh, where the 150 changed for '96, but the 250\350 had no 98 MY and became the Super Duty for '99

[ckuske]

Man, you guys know your windows.  Thanks for all the background information.  I see that there is a clear glass version of the CRL slider available out there. It's not as popular as the grey glass version (on LMC for example) but for the purist the option is out there!  They offer a version (DY90035) with no gasket, and the catalog says the OEM gasket will work.  Just putting this here for future readers.

I'll hopefully post good news tomorrow night.  Charging my drill batteries so I use it to polish a test spot on my slider.  I'm kind of tempted at this point to just buy the new slider though for $176 (gasket excluded - picture is incorrect)!

https://www.gordonglassusa.com/item/DVW950B-1972/CRL-Duo-Vent-Four-Panel-Truck-Slider-with-Clear-Glass-for-1973-1996-Ford-F-Series-DVW950B-1972.html

[ArdWrknTrk]

OEM as in, the thin gasket that fits single glass?
Because that's where the aftermarket windows differ from OEM.
Factory sliders put the bypass channel in the gasket where C.R. Laurence hàs an aluminium fin and "fillers" in the corners.

[Nothing Special]

I have the sliding rear window that was in my '97 F-250HD when I bought it.  It's a pretty dark grey tint which is why I had it replaced (dark tinted rear windows become opaque when you put a topper on the truck).  No idea what it would take to ship, and it sounds like you have better options.  But throwing it out there.

[ckuske]

Much appreciated!  The cerium oxide will be here in a few hours, and we will see if I can undo my mistake and go from there.

I'd like to keep the original glass if possible - as stupid as it sounds, there is an outline on the rear window glass still from a sticker my Dad had on the back window through the early 90's.  I'd hate to get rid of those little reminders of him being the original driver of the truck.

[Gary Lewis]

Chris - I understand the desire to keep the original glass so I hope the abrasive does the trick.  But I do have an extra slider which I could pull the glass from and send it to you if you want.

[ckuske]

That's awesome, thanks Gary.  I'll let you know if I end up needing it.  Hopefully I can get mine fixed up and someone else in need can use it some day.  But until then, stand by!

[ckuske]

Ok, looks like some progress.  I spent about 20 minutes on the passenger door window with the cerium oxide and a kit that included some 3" polishing pads to use with my drill.  Definitely better!

I also ordered some pads for my DA polisher, since I have 5 windows to go it should make things go a little faster and do better than my poor Dewalt cordless drill that only goes maybe 200 RPM.  It seems lots of detailers use rotary tools with cerium oxide if you're *careful*.  The dual action of the polisher I'm using is meant to help newbies not burn their paint, so that'll help with the blast radius  in case I mess up.   Apparently you have to look out for heating up the glass and obviously applying even pressure so you take a uniform amount of material off the surface.  

I started with light pressure, and it basically did nothing.  I applied medium to medium-heavy pressure and while it wore the drill out quickly, it did make a big difference.  There is more to do on that window even, but I'm encouraged by the results and I think I didn't do irreversible damage.

Before:



After: