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Just thought I would drop a post on what the HiPo lights/packaging looks like—needle paint for Ford included here:
1980 Ford XLT F350
400 Engine (rebuilt to 406) Holley 2300 500 CFM manual Choke Carb Under Restore (1st time) |
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Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by AmericanSavage
Here ya go Gary:
OK, a couple of posts coming. First, this one--the tab restore. I essentially learned how to do it from Polyvance (or they gave me the idea) Pics you see front and back of the rebuild tab, after I sanded it down with a wheel barrel sander on the dremel. LOW SPEED always. Then I drilled the hole carefully and touched up sanding a skosh more. This is the end result. ![]()
1980 Ford XLT F350
400 Engine (rebuilt to 406) Holley 2300 500 CFM manual Choke Carb Under Restore (1st time) |
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Administrator
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That tab looks great! And it is a lot stronger, I'm sure.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by AmericanSavage
Went full on to get the pillars done today, and of course, I ran into a problem. First pic is the original pillars I found at pic a year ago…the process to SEM is the second pic going right to left—wash, rinse, prep, wipe, adhesion (2 coats), prime (2 coats)… (I did not need texture, that will come with the dash repair, of which, I still need to figure out a speaker grille fab).
The issue was, one of the pillars when I was sanding after the two coats of primer, had a hairline crack. So, the next pic is my repair—I like using fiberglass and resin. It works great on plastic. I will be sanding that inside part of the crack tomorrow. Likely use some glaze to cover the crack a bit. Now I could have used Superglue and backing soda and a popsicle stick—if you have not tried that method, you should keep it in the back of your mind—it really works and makes a seal—like you could repair buckets, and under pressure stuff like pool pumps!, etc., using that method. But fiberglass flexes and the plastic moulding is thinner, so I chose the Surf Board patch method. Finally the paint on the one pillar. And, yes, it looks like I am going to have to go darker. So, I stopped and have a can coming. One thing I will say: the SEM stuff is worth the money. I had no fisheye, no dry spray, and the SATIN finish makes it look like OEM. Highly recommend. end of week for repaint. Will post on that then. To the pics! 👇 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
1980 Ford XLT F350
400 Engine (rebuilt to 406) Holley 2300 500 CFM manual Choke Carb Under Restore (1st time) |
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Thanks for documenting your process and progress. It'll help others.
![]() And your repair looks really strong. But I see what you mean about using a popsicle stick as in your closeup there's a level difference on the edge at the crack and the stick would probably eliminate that if you clamped it.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Hey Gary,
Yes, I think you are right…I went out and looked at it just now. I will need to do something, because the ever so slight crack on that edge shows. Ugh! Will post on how I do that success or no this week. Oh and on the super glue and baking soda—this is really fabulous:
1980 Ford XLT F350
400 Engine (rebuilt to 406) Holley 2300 500 CFM manual Choke Carb Under Restore (1st time) |
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In reply to this post by AmericanSavage
Went to NCS today—they are the local auto paint supplier that took good care of me when I painted the truck last year. They carry SEM. We matched up the paint from an original piece, and we have a match. Here is the piece I painted with Portolo, and repainted with NAPA today.
Second pic is of the crack repair—using an autobody glaze. Light Sanding tomorrow and maybe reapplication, then retouch with primer, and then paint with SEM Napa. That SEM paint really lays down well. ![]()
1980 Ford XLT F350
400 Engine (rebuilt to 406) Holley 2300 500 CFM manual Choke Carb Under Restore (1st time) |
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Administrator
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Looks good! And I agree that SEM lays down well. It is really hard to get it to run.
Crack repair looks great as well.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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I will be able to tell on crack tomorrow. I am picky and can still see a line.....but...we shall see. Your encouragement always the best. Cheers! More pics tomorrow or next day on crack fix.
1980 Ford XLT F350
400 Engine (rebuilt to 406) Holley 2300 500 CFM manual Choke Carb Under Restore (1st time) |
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In reply to this post by AmericanSavage
Got the pillar done today. 400 grit sanded the crack area lightly. It looked good, so primed the area and shot the color. Result = 1st pic.
For ref, the inside patch area all sanded down. Up next—the dash stain and repair. Silver paint coming this week, then tearing into the truck and removing parts for prep and paint. ![]()
1980 Ford XLT F350
400 Engine (rebuilt to 406) Holley 2300 500 CFM manual Choke Carb Under Restore (1st time) |
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Administrator
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Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by AmericanSavage
Started on the dash and took the P side kick panel out.
I just received the silver today, so, I hope to have the dash done tomorrow. I tested two spots on it—the cubby and the wiper/lights panel with Satin black, and then satin gloss. The cubby needed it because I had to sand glue off the inside. Prepped, primed, and shot the black and the satin gloss. For the light/wiper section, it was not completely dry yet, but overall, I say it looks alright. The kick panel was so degraded, it took off the texture—the plastic fell off like sand as I stripped and then sanded it with 180 by hand. So I used the SEM texture (have to shoot it from 2 feet away!) It is not OEM, but it does cover up a lot of imperfection. Shot is before I shot the color. It goes on black. I knocked it down a bit with 400 grit. Onward! ![]() ![]()
1980 Ford XLT F350
400 Engine (rebuilt to 406) Holley 2300 500 CFM manual Choke Carb Under Restore (1st time) |
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Administrator
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Looking good! I think the silver pen is in my future. And that SEM texture appears to be a good solution to the problem of the plastic turning mealy and shedding the texture.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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It took me a while to figure it out--I started too close..can says 1-2 feet. I was at 1 foot, and it was not providing texture. 2 feet away did the trick! For giving the surface something besides the original texture and then smooth (which looks hinkey) it blends everything together. I got it for the dash, but I forgot that when I got those kick panels at the pick in 2022, they were sandy on the surface. Prepping them today reminded me...I took all the loose stuff OFF. So I am glad I tried the texture in a more less inconspicuous place. Oh the dash: That pic I should re-load. It looks MUCH better all flashed--no apparent inconsistencies in the black satin. Have to say, I am loving me some SEM right now though.
1980 Ford XLT F350
400 Engine (rebuilt to 406) Holley 2300 500 CFM manual Choke Carb Under Restore (1st time) |
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Slow going today as unexpected things pressed my time. BUT, I got the entire dash taped off and shot the rest of the satin black, then gloss. Also running a glue test for the indicator covers the light shows through—a few are broken. Using LokWeld for the test.
Tomorrow, silver! And if all goes well, gluing in the rest of the indicators….then the dash will be prepped and done. After that, cab pillar and door plastic on P-side. Meantime, here is steering column cover restored. Almost looks new. No paint, just a lot of plastic polish on this one.
1980 Ford XLT F350
400 Engine (rebuilt to 406) Holley 2300 500 CFM manual Choke Carb Under Restore (1st time) |
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Administrator
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That's amazing that it cleaned up that nicely. How did you do that?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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I used Car Guys plastic cleaner/restore. I hear Mothers is also good. Anyway, the trick is work it in (I did with my fingers) and then left overnight. Wiped down with a soft cloth the next morning Here is link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071FRWWRF?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
1980 Ford XLT F350
400 Engine (rebuilt to 406) Holley 2300 500 CFM manual Choke Carb Under Restore (1st time) |
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A Little Before/after on dash. I still have two indicators to glue into place, but essentially, it is done.
Oh, I used the silver paint here, and the nail swabs from the Rosewood write-up. I ROLLED the swab—I did not paint in a brush motion. The author of that piece (Jonathan?) is correct—these are the swabs to use. However, I used SEM satin gloss over it ALL. I experienced no issues with the silver. Anyway, FWIW: ![]()
1980 Ford XLT F350
400 Engine (rebuilt to 406) Holley 2300 500 CFM manual Choke Carb Under Restore (1st time) |
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So, cab pillar today—It recently started to downpour here, so had to stop for the day, and also had to repair part of the pillar so waiting for it to dry and cure.
I stripped it of all the paint, sanded, and sanded, and…you get the idea. Nice and light, not aggressive sanding. No more than 100, and no finer than 180. You will see a fiberglass patch here. I did that on the backside, and then on the side that had the hole, filled it with resin and sanded. It came from the Pick this way with a hole in it right above the seat belt opening—degraded plastic and mealy. Beggars cannot be choosers—do you know how difficult it is to find the right cab pillar?! If I could find others, I would snag them, but never have since that time. The previous owners trashed all the inside plastic and liners/healiner, etc., so, I had to rebuild. Anyway Will shoot the paint tomorrow, assuming my resin sets and does not separate. There looks like a small patch that did not take, so, I may have to cut that out carefully with a dremel tomorrow. IF the resin separates, which it can, I will need to scuff up the inside plastic with a wire brush to provide grab and then reapply. Pics! 👇 ![]() ![]() ![]()
1980 Ford XLT F350
400 Engine (rebuilt to 406) Holley 2300 500 CFM manual Choke Carb Under Restore (1st time) |
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