Diary of a Restore (Thread)

[AmericanSavage]

Gary Lewis wrote

You caught the bit about "the right tires and wheels".  

Told Rick about your purchase and the tires/wheels on it and he immediately knew what that does to the handling.  When he bought the FJ he has it wasn't handling correctly.  He brought it down and let me drive it and I recognized the nibbling and darting that oversized tires give you.  So he dropped down two sizes on tires and it cured the problem.

However, you can sometimes help the problem by changing tire pressures.  We had a brand new Chevy Citation in 1980 that came from the factory with wider than normal tires.  On a trip to Denver in December of '80 (very special trip) that thing didn't want to stay in the ruts on I-70.  It just kept trying to climb out of the ruts.  So I started adjusting the tire pressures and found that I had to run 40 psi when the owner's manual said 35 to get the thing to track properly.  Otherwise the edges of the tires followed every little groove in the highway.

These Tires are 80 psi (as the spec on the sidewall)—I think that is too much.  But it seems tires are more inflated than they were? What changed?

[AmericanSavage]

OK, Update:

Finally in part one of three on interior redo.  Shopping for SEM paint—adhesion, texture, color (always satin btw) and the cleanser.  Never do gloss like i did to touch up some of the parts last summer.  Will be sanding that all down and applying the SEM.  Gonna be over 100 for all the cans—one can each.  

Then, the headliner, and the reupholster.  Upholster kit is around…$700.  GASP!

I spent the last couple weeks wiring up the new sirius antenna. My classic Radio install from last summer has an input for a separate sirius (or anything else).  Major improvement over stock radios.

Also, got a Cobra CB I want to put in it.  I am still trying to figure out how to mount the darn thing. Not a lot of room under the dash—interference from the ash tray and glove box sort of prohibit it. On other side, my oil pressure gauge is in the way.  I could move it, but again, limitation abound on where. So back to square one. So, I am going to have to get crafty.  I could fab a bracket to drop the radio from the dash, and I may do that. I could screw it to the front bar of the bench seat too. I could fab a hump mount to sit to the right of the shifters. OR, I could somehow figure a way to put it in a bench console—but I like a clean bench and the drop down armrest. The previous owners stripped the cab and had one screwed into the top. But my headliner I found, prohibits that.  And I like the headliner—makes it look better and a little more quiet.

OH, the DASH.  I am still trying to figure out how to make a speaker grill for the center. I know Gary had a CAD mock but I cannot find anything like it. My dash has a few cracks and that will be taken care of with bondo, sand, texture, and repaint.  But that grill replication with the holes is going to be my biggest challenge at this point.  Maybe a thin wood?

Pics will come as I proceed on this. First the paint, then saving for the material for the 87 bench and headliner kits.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Gary made the CAD design for Ron/Reamer.
I think there is a sticky in the marketplace section if you want to order a speaker hole dash patch.

[AmericanSavage]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Gary made the CAD design for Ron/Reamer.
I think there is a sticky in the marketplace section if you want to order a speaker hole dash patch.

I sent Reamer a note some time ago.  Never heard anything.  If you have a way to get to him, let me know.  I AM interested!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Well, he's in the other corner of the state (but it IS a tiny State)

Maybe he hasn't got the printing figured out yet?
I do believe the original ones ($$$ by Shapeways) were fused structural nylon and he has a FDM.
But now many other print farms are in operation, or it could get jobbed out to a 'broker' like Xometry.

Definitely TPU or PETN would have a hard time keeping their shape, baking in the sun on a summer day.

What I CAN DO  is assign him to this thread so he will get notice and perhaps reply.

[AmericanSavage]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Well, he's in the other corner of the state (but it IS a tiny State)

Maybe he hasn't got the printing figured out yet?
I do believe the original ones ($$$ by Shapeways) were fused structural nylon and he has a FDM.
But now many other print farms are in operation, or it could get jobbed out to a 'broker' like Xometry.

Definitely TPU or PETN would have a hard time keeping their shape, baking in the sun on a summer day.

What I CAN DO  is assign him to this thread so he will get notice and perhaps reply.

Please do and THANK YOU!

[ArdWrknTrk]

I already did!  😁
You can see 'assignments' at the top of any page in this thread.
"Priority 3, normal"

You're basically sending them a request to participate.

Hopefully Ron has some good news for anyone that wants/needs these dash patches, because quite a few members have reached out, unsuccessfully.

I'm not sure if it is still in the Shapeways library.
Perhaps I can go back to FTE and dig up the thread.

Edit: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1359252-dash-speaker-hole-area-repair-plate-finished.html

And:  https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/#nabble-td30179

[Gary Lewis]

AmericanSavage wrote

These Tires are 80 psi (as the spec on the sidewall)—I think that is too much.  But it seems tires are more inflated than they were? What changed?

I meant to reply to this and forgot.  The 80 psi # is the max the tires are supposed to ever have, and that is to carry the maximum load they are rated for.  But the "right" pressure for your application is less than that.

For instance, the original tires on Blue, not Big Blue, are rated for 2535 lbs at 51 psi, but the owners manual tells you to run 35 psi in them at all times.  The tires on Big Blue are rated for 3750 @ 80 psi but I'm running 60 in them normally, although I would boost that a bit for the back tires if I were to pull a trailer for any distance.

You have to find what is the "right" pressure for your vehicle depending on the tire, the weight of the vehicle, and the way it handles on the road.  That 1980 Chevy Citation X11 had very wide tires from the factory and didn't drive right with the factory-recommended pressure - which was the same as if it had the normal tires.  But bumping the pressure up a bit fixed that.  However, that was still far less than the max pressure rating on the sidewall.

What you are looking for is the tread to have equal weight all across it so the tire wears evenly.  But also to prevent the edges of the tire from following ruts and gouges in the pavement.  So it is an experiment to see what is best for your situation.

[81-F150-Explorer]

Just to add to Gary's excellent explanation:

The Tire PSI rating on the certification label  is for the tires and wheels that came with the vehicle new.

So if your truck has the same size tires and wheels it came with from the factory, use the PSI on the certification label.

But if you changed the tires and wheels sizes for smaller or bigger, this can (but not always) mess up the PSI ratings on the certification label for your application as well.

So you will have to adjust the PSI to optimize it for your new wheels/tires sizes like Gary states etc...
Good luck explaining that to some tire counter clerks.

[AmericanSavage]

81-150:
This makes perfect sense to me—not the tire guys.  

The ones I bought say 80--265/75 R16.  The big ones 305/70 r16 that were on it say 50.  

I think 80 is WAY too high for my truck as I am not carrying loads for the most part, but that is just a hunch and not based on any facts/math/etc.  

And also, thanks Gary.  Both of you have convinced me.  I am going to play around with the pressure.

[Gary Lewis]

I think some place between 50 and 60 psi might be closer than 80.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I agree with Gary, if you don't have any weight in the truck you're going to want to be somewhere in the '50's

Tires with high aspect ratios and carcass plies need a good amount of pressure to keep from feeling squirrelly and flexing the sidewalls enough to heat the rubber.

A truck is never going to ride as compliant as a car but there's no reason for pressure to be at the limit without a big load.

[reamer]

Hi All
Been busy traveling and Fire dept. stuff, Ill be working on the file Gary made me years ago. The new Slicing software should help "get it right" I do have two made years ago and when I gat home, Ill stick them on the dash for testing in the sun......

[AmericanSavage]

Hi Reamer!

I am interested!  If you want to chat on phone, Gary has all my phone contact info!  

[Powerman5K]

Be sure to use high temp filament. I used PLA for my phone holder and it deformed in the hot sun. My phone phone holder was probably thicker than your grill. I'd try ABS or PETG. Maybe even Nylon. My guess is all will sag over time though.

[AmericanSavage]

Cracked Dash Prep

I have been shopping for paint and prep system needed for this project, including texture and primer for the repair.  I have settled on SEM for it all.

The question is what filler?  Of course it could also be wrapped, but I am not going to do that. As you can see from the pic, I have two small cracks, and the rest is fairly decent shape. So, there are options.

1) bondo—however, when bondo dries it cracks—this is not good for cold. When it heats up I am unsure if it allows flexibility.

2) polyvance: this requires welding in plastic and then filling with their dash bondo which is flexible in all conditions.

3) combo short hair bondo/Polyvance filler.

I will go with 2 or 3. Option 2 requires use of their plastic iron system which is $100.  3 is the cheapest, but I do not know if the underlay short glass will be enough flexibility. So longevity might be an issue.

So I am undecided.

Then I have the grille problem.  I am not sure how to solve this issue absent Reamer.  But I am looking.

In the process I will be doing all the interior plastic sanding and using minimal filler for one platic piece behind the seat as it cracked.  Fiberglass and resin will be used to reinforce, then small filler.

While I am here I am also going to test that temp gaugue that is broken.  Or the dash printed circuit.  I need to lookup how to test these gauges.  I believe you can from the battery, one post to the hot and one to ground?????

Then the seat and the headliner. I am set on what I am going to get.  Full cloth.  Probably get the foam repair kit from LMC just in case I need it.

[Gary Lewis]

Following.  But I'd go with something as flexible as possible 'cause there is a lot of flex in the dash pads.

And hopefully Reamer will confirm his patch will hold up to the heat.  

[ArdWrknTrk]

Do NOT connect any stock gauge to *12V*
They work on the 5.5V instrument cluster voltage regulator heating a resistor wire spring that loses tension as it heats up.
If you want to test the instrument ground the sender wire and momentarily turn the key to 'run'.

Depending on how many dash cracks you have you might consider some dashboard filler that comes in one of those dual piston syringes or some flex filler used for bumper fascias.
This stuff bonds like crazy to whatever vinyl or urethane the automakers use outside the car. I don't see why it wouldn't be fine on a dash pad.

Ron seems to have an update on the speaker bezel.
https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Finally-finished-Dash-Patch-td137381.html
For whatever reason he always starts a new thread instead of following up on previous posts.
There doesn't seem to be any information on how to actually place an order or transfer funds...

[AmericanSavage]

So someone is selling this for 245, and 45 shipping.  Not sure if it is a good deal, but wanted to throw it out there. Apparently, everything works, but the only thing I really want is the tach.  Problem is this is for a Diesel yes?  Since it only goes to 4000.  And that tach looks stuck.

[81-F150-Explorer]

That cluster is for a circa 1992-1999 F-series medium duty truck. F-600/FT-900 etc...

The Cluster plastic surround piece should work for our trucks as well as the lens piece for non-trip odometer.

The speedometer is electronic, and will not work with our trucks. (or at least without serious modification)

The gauges (Oil Temp Fuel Charge) are the same as ours.

The tach might be for a gas truck, as the F-600-up has different values to the tach. (I cannot tell from the picture which though).

During this era, the fuel used would be printed on the tach itself below the RPM mark.