Diary of a Restore (Thread)

[AmericanSavage]

Orders are slowly trickling in.  Thought I would post for those who have not seen it, the JBG printed circuit with tach sent to me.  Made in USA too!

[81-F150-Explorer]

And it's in the original color green for the 1980 only printed circuit.

I'm impressed by that.

[grumpin]

That's great! Looks good! And USA!

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, that is very well done!

[AmericanSavage]

Another meaningless update:

While I am waiting on a few things—the Lokweld is on the way, and the dash cluster is stuck in San Jose…went to the bog box to grab some chemicals and chip brushes, tape off paper, etc.  Saw a 52” x 24 workbench.  I have no table in my small garage—only my 1980 triple stack Craftsman tool box.  Over the last 2 years, I have accumulated a lot of tools. The box was overflowing into a makeshift dresser.  

Anyway, saw this—it was 598 on sale from 698.  They had two and at the store is was on fire for 398.  I had one of those 12 month no interest coupons and snagged it.  I want a bench to rework the bench seat upholstery.

It arrived, and when I unwrapped it…UGH.  Huge ding. Something heavy slammed into the box. I called for a pickup and redrop. Kinda wanted it pristine.  But then I pushed some of the dent back and got the silver handle nearly realigned. Offered them to keep it for 200. So, walla!  Got it for 198. Despite the still visible ding (covered by my Summit sticker held on by magnets), not a bad deal I would say.  It is not perfect, but it works in my tight space.

Pics are the original ding, and then the placement after fixing most of it.  Might do more fixing/rivet a couple sections.

[Gary Lewis]

I understand where you are coming from.  I have a Craftsman toolbox that I ordered and when it got here a panel was bent.  I explained and they send a new panel.  Long story short, they were incapable of packaging it so it wouldn't be bent, so after the 3rd panel came in I gave up and kept it.  Don't remember the discount, but it was steep.

I've now used that toolbox for many years and have added a few dents of my own.  It was a very good buy and has served well, and I'm sure yours will be everything you need, and at a very good price.  

[AmericanSavage]

Not Ideal of course, and I would love to have it pristine, but, I got it mostly correct…may tweak it some more.  The price slash was the only thing that makes it worth considering.  Cheers Gary!

[AmericanSavage]

While I am waiting for the dash cluster to come today, I took the truck out for the first time at night—actually drove it to and from work. I never knew how DIM the dash lights were until last night.

Gary has a nice thread here: https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Instrument-Lighting-Paint-Testing-tp52526.html


While I usually prefer incandescent Gary has convinced me I need to seriously consider HIPO.  And you know, since I am there, might as well fluorescent the needles too.  I like how bright the lights are.  At full blast last night I could hardly see anything in the panel.

It is going to be spendy—7 bulbs.  I will keep the normal incandescent for the signals atop.

My question is:  do you remove the blue encasings that surround the bulb inside the dash?  It appears Gary did just that.  That allows the color white to flow through better and brighter?

Also while I am there, might as well get a new instrument regulator.  Cannot believe how old this part is, but from all I can tell it is:  D1AZ-10804-A  1971!!!!!!!

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, take the blue filters out.  They are now more opaque than translucent and not only change the color of the light but also significantly reduce the amount of it.

But if you like blue then you could go with the HIPO blue LEDs.

As for the ICVR, yes they are OLD!  And archaic in design.  So you should replace it with something much better, like this one from Dennis Carpenter.

[AmericanSavage]

Thanks Gary!

I misspoke about the number of lights—that’s for the dummy gauge dash—Mine has 5.  And I am definitely removing those blue covers.  I really like the look you captured.  Thanks for sharing all that.

Oh and thanks for the DC link—I was going to check them.  They are essentially local, and have been VERY good to me.  

And my Cluster came this afternoon!

[81-F150-Explorer]

Gary Lewis wrote

Yes, take the blue filters out.  They are now more opaque than translucent and not only change the color of the light but also significantly reduce the amount of it.

But if you like blue then you could go with the HIPO blue LEDs.

I was a stage lighting tech in my youth.

The Primary colors of light are Red - Green - Blue.  (Same as a RGB on a computer monitor or TV set) So the filters when they were new reduced the light by 1/3rd removing the red light to get the Greenish/blue.  

The Incandescent bulbs are not a pure white light either, and couple the fact that the instrument cluster backing can discolor, and no longer reflect the light ...  It's crazy how much loss of brightness there is.

As for the ICVR, yes they are OLD!  And archaic in design.  So you should replace it with something much better, like this one from Dennis Carpenter.

I believe the 1971 F-series and Econoline was the first clusters with a printed circuit, so it makes sense why Ford would still use it.  The Guages didn't really change in function, just in visual design, until 1987.

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, they reduced by 1/3 when they were new.  They are far from new and while Bill & HIPO said you can polish them back to be as good as new I don't agree.  In my experience they still are cloudy and will surely seriously reduce the light.

But by using LEDs you bypass the need for the filters.  Want blue, install blue LEDs.

[AmericanSavage]

Those original blue caps also disintegrate, and I do not think there is an OEM like replacement.  

But I am convinced.  I am going HiPo.  Creating account and ordering this week.

[81-F150-Explorer]

AmericanSavage wrote

Those original blue caps also disintegrate, and I do not think there is an OEM like replacement.  

But I am convinced.  I am going HiPo.  Creating account and ordering this week.

The blue caps are replaceable: They also come in other colors.

Filter Instrument Cluster Lamp: Blue
    Part #: D9AZ-10B870-A  / Fits: 1980/1986 F-100/F-350/U-150 = 1982/1986 Econoline = 83/86 Ranger = 84/86 Bronco II

If your interested.

But personally I wouldn't bother replacing them.

[Gary Lewis]

Part number D9 probably not only means they were first used in 1979 but that they were made way back then as well.  

[AmericanSavage]

81-F150-Explorer wrote

AmericanSavage wrote

Those original blue caps also disintegrate, and I do not think there is an OEM like replacement.  

But I am convinced.  I am going HiPo.  Creating account and ordering this week.

The blue caps are replaceable: They also come in other colors.

Filter Instrument Cluster Lamp: Blue
    Part #: D9AZ-10B870-A  / Fits: 1980/1986 F-100/F-350/U-150 = 1982/1986 Econoline = 83/86 Ranger = 84/86 Bronco II

If your interested.

But personally I wouldn't bother replacing them.

There are a lot of NOS OEM covers, boy are they expensive—but I did a search on the part number, and found replacements at Mustang, here:  https://www.american-mustang.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=39_478&products_id=6325&zenid=78d16fg86jgcr6lgn5lccifij3

I am DEFINITELY not going to use them.  HiPo all the way for me now.

[AmericanSavage]

While I am waiting for more things to arrive—HiPo should be here today, but the Upholstery is going to take 3 months!  Yikes!

Anyway, started to prep some interior—both the dash and some pillars I got from the pick a year ago.  One pillar needed a tab fixed.  

As you can see from the dash, I cleaned it with rubbing alcohol and started to draw the lines in to prep for the stain.  I am going to have to use some Satin black SEM on one part as there was glue inside the little rectangle container.  This is the original dash which was given to me when I bought the truck. Have no idea why they removed it, except some of the indicator light covers are missing.  I have new ones from the pick and will use adhesive to replace them.

Anyway to the tab repair.  My old ones disintegrated when I took them off a year ago.  I found some but one had a broken tab (first pic).  So, I got some mesh, sticky tape on one side.  Cut it, wrapped it, and used a plastic welding iron to juuuuuust melt it into the plastic.  Then wrapped it with a small patch of fiberglass and resin.  

It still needs to be sanded (I will use a Dremel sand wheel) but here are the results.  

[Gary Lewis]

Interesting.  So you'll drill it?  Or does it take a screw?

[AmericanSavage]

I will likely post this tomorrow.  I want the resin to set well tonight (not hardening as fast as I would like, maybe because it is very humid here today), then I will sand it/shape it…but, I will drill a hole same size as the other pillar tabs so the metal screw goes through it and sets the interior moulding piece (If that makes sense).  

[AmericanSavage]

Oh forgot to post the dash beginnings for restore as per the excellent write up on Rosewood here Gary.  I have highlighted the area I have drawn in the continuation of the “wood grain”: