Big Blue's Transformation

[kramttocs]

Just skimmed over the last few posts.
Just fyi - the offset holddown is for the aux battery not the main. The main is straight across.

Here is what came on my main 65:
http://www.quickcable.com/products.php?pageId=597

Part #302102

Works with the factory j hooks.


In order to avoid the c channel look on yours I'd flipped it over and notch it out to fit down over the battery a bit.

[Gary Lewis]

That Quick Cable hold down would work on the main battery.  But not on the aux battery.  I think I'll try to make something that looks similar for both sides, although the aux will be angled, as you said.

I'd thought about flipping it as you suggested.  But I think I like the dual ribs going across, tying the two ends together.  I'm going to play with the mill a bit tomorrow and see what I come up with.  

But thanks!

[Frank Wyatt]

Your cables look good Gary, and that battery will certainly not move with that holding it down. That's the best looking universal battery hold down that I've seen Scott. I went on E-Bay and ordered me one.

[kramttocs]

Nice! With Quick Cable you really can't go wrong. They make really nice quality stuff. The hold down is no exception.

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks, Frank.  And I agree that the Quick Cable products are good.  I just want something that sorta matches from one side to the other, and don't think I can do that with their stuff.

Here's a rough draft of what I'm talking about.  The pic on the left shows where I'll mill the channel, and the one on the right shows it sitting on the battery.

Thoughts?

[Nothing Special]

Gary Lewis wrote

Any concern with using the studs instead of the post terminals?  I heard once that you shouldn't hook a winch to the stud terminals, that they can't handle the heat from that much current.  I have no idea if that's true, all I'm saying is that I heard it once, and I'm wondering what you or others have heard.

[Gary Lewis]

I hadn't heard that, and I've had the winch hooked that way since I got it.  So I don't think that is true.  But all I know is what I've experienced.

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, here's a before and after.  The hold-down fits the battery perfectly and it comes right down against the nut holding the j-bolt to the bracket from the radiator support.  To me it is "perfect", although there are some glitches.  

Jim, I don't have any 1/4-28 wing nuts, so I'll have to get some.  But for now it has nyloc nuts on it.




And then I worked on the auxiliary battery.  As said, the regular j-bolt slots are offset, but there was enough meat in the ear in front to put the bolt dead-center on the battery.  And the strap that goes from the battery carrier to the coolant reservoir is plenty strong so I drilled it to take the other j-bolt.  However, it is 1/4-20 instead of 1/4-28, so I'm going to cut the "J" off it, thread that end and secure the 1/4-20 end to the bracket with two nuts.  That way all the nuts on top will be 1/4-28.

Here's how that came out, and tomorrow I'll make another, smaller, hold-down for the aux battery.




And, I don't think I showed pics of the bracket I made to hold the coolant reservoir.  Here are a couple of pics after I rounded the corners on it.  In the not too distant future I'll gather all the bits up that need coating and media blast and then PC them.  That will include this bracket, the hold-downs, the j-hooks, etc.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Progress is good!  👍

You're making headway Gary!

[grumpin]

Nice work Gary! Looks good!

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks, guys!  

The devil is in the details, and the battery hold-downs have been "wrong" for a long time.  So when I got to that point I just had to fix them to my satisfaction.

And swapping the main battery around was the only way to go once I realized how close the positive post was to the hood.  However, that threw a bit of a kink in the plans because it required me to use the #2 wire I had to make new ground wires for that side.  I was going to use it to make a ground wire to go from the aux battery to the block, so I'm going to have to come back at some point and add that cable since I'm out of wire now.

When that happens I'll have both batteries tied to the block via #2 cables, and both fenders tied to the batteries via #4 cables.  The radiator support is tied on both ends to the fenders via #10 wires, which ought to be adequate since only the headlights are grounded to it.  So now I need to add grounds from the fenders to the cab awa the standard ground from the engine to the cab.

But the later trucks had the cab grounded via additional ground straps.  Were they from the frame to the cab around the cab mount bolts?  Does anyone have pictures of how or where those grounds ran?  And is there a need for them if I add the grounds from the fenders to the cab awa the engine/cab ground?

[kramttocs]

That hold down looks excellent. Definitely doesn't look like plain old c-channel anymore. Well done!

[ArdWrknTrk]

 Ya think I might have been working around that darn braided strap the past couple of days???

Let me go get a pic....

[Gary Lewis]

Jim - Thanks a bunch.  So, it just clips onto the frame?  Then does it go to the through bolt on the mount?  If so, then there's a mate inside the cab?

That doesn't seem very secure if I have that correct.  I think my idea of bonding the fenders to the cab under the hood is more likely to work reliably for a longer period.

Scott - Thanks.  That's the look I had in my mind's eye, so was anxious to see how it would work out.  It worked out perfectly and, at least to me, doesn't say "chunk of c-channel".

I really enjoy making things with the lathe and/or mill.  And, for that matter, using the welder.  So the time it has taken to make the coolant reservoir bracket as well as the battery hold-downs has been fun.

[Gary Lewis]

Got the other battery hold-down made and installed, and then connected the battery cables.  Basically, the electrical system is DONE! 





   I still have to pull those parts, as well as the power steering/air conditioning compressor bracket, off and powder coat them, but I want to wait a bit to see what else needs to be powder coated so I can do it all in one go.  And, because the transfer case is sitting in the powder coating booth - in the way.

So, here's my plan, after cleaning up the shop enough to have some place to put things as I work on them:

Order carb adapter and send dizzy in to Scotty

Headers: This will be delicate as I do NOT want to chip them.  So I'll have to pad everything.

Transfer Case: Once the headers are on the transfer case can go on

Drive Shafts: The rear shaft should bolt right on, but I need to rebuild the front shaft

Oil pressure switch & fittings: I need to add the tree at the back of the engine and connect up the wiring, pressure line, etc.

Ignition system: I gave my DS-II box to someone at the show, so I need to put one back and hook the connectors up.

Fuel System: I need to re-install the old fuel tank with pump & sender, or put in the FDM.  I need to make a decision on that.

Brakes: Add fluid and bleed them

Steering: Connect up the power steering/hydroboost lines

About now the carb adapter should come in and I can add the adapter and carb

Cooling System: Install the radiator & hoses.

Dizzy: When the dizzy comes in I can install it, new plugs, and wires.

Fire It Up!

[Sac79]

That's some real nice work there Gary!

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks, Rob.  

[85lebaront2]

Looks good sir! One question, I see a Duraspark label on an aluminum box peeking out from behind the washer fluid/overflow tank, would that be the one you need to locate and install?

After your new engine is broken in, can I rent the DS-II, Carter and adapter to do the same with Darth's new engine?

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks, Bill.  

Jein on the DS-II box.  I run two, stacked with connector nuts.  I gave the top one and the connector nuts away thinking I was going straight to EFI, but I think I have another and more nuts so will set it back up stacked.  Besides, the one on there is the one that came on Big Blue from Vernon and it doesn't have the retard feature.

And you can use the carb adapter, but you'll have to wait a bit as I am hoping to drive the truck using the Carterbrock for a while and then, maybe, go EFI over the winter.  But even then, the carb is borrowed back from Brandon/Bruno2 so I can't loan it out.  However, I have the Street Demon that I plan to press into service once I fire it and prove it with the AFB and you could use that.

But, you gotta light the fire with something.  Wanna also use the to-be-curved dizzy.  

Oh yes, you'll either have to have the injectors installed which, as you well know, requires the fuel rails to hold them in, or get brass cups to plug the holes.  The adapter comes with the cups, but I suspect they'll be worse for the wear after I get them out.

[85lebaront2]

I won't be dropping the engine in any time soon. Yes I will need the distributor also, I got rid of all of the old stuff to a Federal Marshall in Norfolk VA who needed it. I will just stick the 8 old injectors in to plug the holes. I primarily need to be able to run it 2500 rpm for 20-30 mins to break in the cam. I can use the 735 Holley I have to do it.