Big Blue's Transformation

[salans7]

I'm watching closely because what works on BB is what dictates my T-case direction. I'm already leaning towards the 1345 but ultimately will have to see what I can find.

[Gary Lewis]

Understood.  And the 1345 has the lowest gear ratio:

Transfer Case Low Range Gear Ratio
                        NP205 1.96
                        NP208 2.61
                        BW1345 2.74
                        BW1356 2.69

[ArdWrknTrk]

What makes the 1356 hard to get, or more desirable?

[kramttocs]

Looking good Gary!

What is the 1345 oil pump mod? I know the 1356 had the retaining arm wear issue but hadn't heard of a mod for the 1345.

[salans7]

Any difference between Bronco/F150 and 3/4+ ton versions? Part numbers are all over the place in the documentation section (different part numbers every year). My local "they pull it" says they have one from a Bronco in stock so I have a local option.

[salans7]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

What makes the 1356 hard to get, or more desirable?

Just not available within a couple hours distance in my area, which translates to extra shipping charges.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Probably slip yoke v/s fixed yoke v/s plate mount outputs.

Remember, the 350 takes a double cardan front shaft, and that needs a unique output yoke.

[Gary Lewis]

Scott - The oil pumps are supposedly the same or very similar 'tween the 1345 and the 1356, so the same mod is supposed to work.  I guess I'll find out.

Shaun - The part numbers are different because the parts lists differ between applications.  Go to the Documentation/Driveline/Transfer Case page and then the Applications tab.  Get your application's parts list # and then go to the 1345 tab and find the parts list and compare that to another list. I've not done that, but I'm guessing that the main difference is what Jim said - output yokes.

[kramttocs]

Interested to see how the mod goes. I thought they were similar (have only seen 1356 pictures) in that regard aside from the case material so when I was swapping the back half of my 1345 I considered doing the 1356 mod but I didn't find any wear. Depending on what you find I may put it on my future improvements list.

[Gary Lewis]

Not too sure when I'll pull the t-case apart for the rebuild.  But as I think about the whole process I'm thinking this might ought to be the overall order.  Input from y'all is appreciated.

Finish The Driveline: This would include installing the transmission, rebuilding & installing the t-case, and rebuilding & installing the driveshafts.

Brakes: Install the firewall brace, pedals, clutch switch, hydroboost, and master, and bleed the brakes.

Steering: Install the Saginaw P/S pump and plumb the cooler and hydroboost in.  But don't install the drive belt for break-in.

Carb'd Engine: Set the engine up to run with a carb for cam break-in, including re-installing the midship tank & fuel pump, add the fuel lines, carb, etc.  Install the 3G alternator and wire it up to the original starter solenoid and connect the fuselinks, which puts the '85 electrical system back in play, inc the DS-II ignition, distributor, etc.  Install the headers and old exhaust system just for break-in as the glass packs have to go.

Install the A/C system, but no belt.

Cooling System: Install the radiator support, radiator, heater hoses, radiator hoses, bypass hose, and thermostat.  Fill system.

Break-in: Start and run the engine on the carb for at least 20 minutes to break in the cam.

EEC: Pull the carb & adapter, install the EFI stuff, and do the EEC-V wiring.

The Rest: Do the interior, inc Dynamat or the like, painting floor, tranny cover, etc.  Grille, front bumper, winch, etc.

[ArdWrknTrk]

How would you put a carb and headers on your EFI heads?

Maybe I'm missing something here?
I mean it's the cam, lifters, pushrods rockers and valve tips that all have to 'marry' one another....
The short block is pretty much good to go.

[Gary Lewis]

Scotty has a carb adapter he's made to go to the EFI lower plenum and he'll loan me one.  Brandon/Bruno2 has the Eddy on the shelf in a baggie.

As for the headers, I sold the carb ones, and need to order in the EFI ones from L&M.

Yes, it is to break in the cam.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ah, gotcha!

The Price Motorsport plate is only $125, and comes with all the injector bungs and a cable bracket.

You better get on with L&L.
Hope they have them in stock.
Since they don't do stainless anymore you probably want to send them to Jet-Hot before even unpacking the box.

[Gary Lewis]

Yep, I need to get them on order.

As for today's mid-day report, I'm preaching to myself: Two steps forward and one back is still progress.  

Got the tranny ready to go in and realized I didn't have this on.  And it looks like it is going to difficult to thread it around the clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate.  

And, in reality it isn't the correct one for a ZF5 as those for it have a "cup" on the bottom.  I have the cup, which is cut off of the full plate so's it can be taken off if/when needed.  So I need to cut this plate to accept the cup.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I won't laugh, at your expense.

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks.  I do appreciate it.

But, laugh at this: Go look at the pic of the engine plate I posted and tell me what's wrong w/it.

(Hint: It won't go over the crank.  )

But, I do have what I think is the right engine plate.  I'd forgotten that there was one on Big Blue, so went out and got it - and got greasy.  Boy, is it a MESS!  I'll clean it and I'm pretty sure it'll work.  It is complete with the attached cup on the bottom.

[1986F150Six]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

1986F150Six wrote

And, progress is good!!!

Hey now!!  

Imitation is the most sincere form of flattery!

[Gary Lewis]

To make a loooooong story short:



Now for a few details.  I pulled the pressure plate, clutch, and flywheel.  Then I ran the engine plate from Big Blue through the parts washer and installed it and re-installed the flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate.
 Then I lubed the splines on the tranny, installed the release bearing and release arm, and installed the tranny.

It wasn't quite that easy, but I'll spare you most of the details.  However, I will say that I had noticed that the driver's side transmission bolt that goes into the head goes right into the wet area under the valve cover.  So I coated the top two with sealant.  Boy are those two fun to get to!  It took all of my long extensions to be able to get to them from behind.  But I got all of the bolts torqued down.

However, I ran out of time before I could clean the crossmember and mark & drill the new holes in the frame.  The crossmember has to move back about an inch, but I think the offset braces will bolt up to the upper holes in the frame.  So all of that is tomorrow's plan.

[Rembrant]

Gary Lewis wrote

However, I ran out of time before I could clean the crossmember and mark & drill the new holes in the frame.  The crossmember has to move back about an inch, but I think the offset braces will bolt up to the upper holes in the frame.  So all of that is tomorrow's plan.

Gary, that freshly painted transmission looks great! I love the look of new parts!

For my M5OD-R2 swap, I obtained the correct crossmember for the trans, and I had to drill new holes 1 3/16" further back to install. I forget where exactly the mount bolts landed in the slots in the crossmember, but I'm pretty sure I centered them or close. I actually modified my offset braces to fit the new crossmember location. It wasn't pretty, but it was the quickest solution I could come up with at the time. The upper bolts could not even be removed without lifting the cab on my truck, and I didn't replace the cab mounts until a year or more later on. The mounts are good and strong, and even if they are a bit ugly, nobody can see them anyway.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'm almost embarrassed to show the underside of 'Lil Red.