Big Blue's Transformation

[ArdWrknTrk]

It's exactly what I meant!

Filtration, keyboard covers, liquid tight or explosion proof connecters, all that.
No need for radiation hardened boards, or anything like that, but conformal coating keeps dust out and corrosion at bay.

I probably would have swapped out that power supply when I first noticed it getting glitchy...

[85lebaront2]

Ok gentlemen, do I have to put both of you in time out?

First, resistance wire in 1985-87 hot fuel handling package pump circuit needs to be bypassed for EFI pumps. You also need to look at wire gauge and pump fuse size on the 1996 system.

Second, Bosch relay with large 30 & 87 terminals, is probably an ABS pump motor relay typically using a 40 amp or bigger fuse.

Third, Ford used a standard Bosch relay to control the starter on the 1990 Town Car and the 1991 up Panther (and other) platforms to operate the PMGR starter.

[Gary Lewis]

Can an admin put other admins in time out?  

But good point on the resistance wire.  I wondered about that but forgot to follow up.  I'll have to redraw that diagram to bypass it.  And, I will check out the rest of the circuitry, including the fuses and wire sizes.  Thanks!

As for the relays, I just happened to have that box and though I might as well use the bigger relay.  And, Jim is bringing his PMGR in with a 40A Bosch, so we do realize it can be done.  

Anyway, thanks for the tip on the wiring.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I understand the 30A relay for PMGR.
And I pointed it out.
I used the bigger one because it came in my box, as I showed.

I don't know about abs pump relays, but Gary said it was rated at 70A.
It didn't come from the 450, and I don't know where he got the PDC.
But I do know the Lincoln/T-bird fans need a LOT of juice on high.

Gary does have the 450 harness, so he should be able to replicate the in-tank pump wiring.
I really wish he had just told me he wanted *everything* when I was pulling it apart piecemeal.

It could have been just big chunks, like you got the gray dash.

[Nothing Special]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

But if you're using the same wire to trigger and power the relay, what is it's purpose?....

Sorry, I'm not taking the time to look over Gary's schematics, so this is probably completely off base...  

From what I gather the horn relay on early Broncos has three wires to it.  One goes to (or comes from) a power source, one goes to the horn and one goes to the horn button.  I haven't looked at a schematic for it, or looked at mine at all.  But that would make sense if they are using the same always-hot wire to "trigger" and power the relay, but are using the horn button to switch the relay's ground.  

In other words, when the relay isn't grounded (you aren't pushing the horn button) the relay coil is getting power, but with no ground it doesn't turn on so the relay is open and the horn doesn't get power.

When you hit the horn button the relay coil is grounded so it switches on and the horn gets power, with the same wire providing the power to both the relay coil and the horn.

In the very likely case that this wasn't at all helpful, I apologize for the interruption.

[Gary Lewis]

Jim - Yes, I do have the 450's harness, but Bill has assured me that the 85 & 86 tank wiring is the same.  (However, he hadn't told me about the resistance wire, so I'd better check the rest of it.  )

Sorry about all the stuff you sent.  But it is going to get put to good use.

Bob - Thanks, but I'm keeping the Bullnose horn system and wiring.  And Big Blue's horn worked when I pulled him apart, so hopefully it will when it goes back together.

Basically I'm trying to keep as much of the Bullnose wiring as I can in order to make this as simple as possible.  So horn and the associated speed control, radio, HVAC, lighting, gauges, trailering package, etc will stay Bullnose and the engine controls will be '96.  However, there are things that the engine control system needs, like to know when the engine is cranking.  And, it needs to tell the fuel system when to run the pump.  So there are interfaces.

But thanks anyway.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Gary, there's certainly no reason to apologise.
It's just, that day, every time I posted "ok, I've got X" you'd reply "Well, give me y and z too."
I'd pull y and z, and...

Bob, you make a lot of sense.
If the whole of that circuit is hot and only ground is being switched it works.
But I wonder why that is the "small" wire.

[Gary Lewis]

Oh!  I misunderstood Bob's post!  He was talking about Relay #2?!  Duh!

Interesting.  I wouldn't ever have thought of that.  Might be the answer.

Jim - I'm sorry to have been a pain, but I'm really glad I have all this stuff.  REALLY glad.  As said yesterday, there are things missing on the CA-spec harness, and I'll use parts from the F450 harness.  And the alternator.  And the polygroove A/C bracket.  And the hydroboost booster and pedal.  And the Saginaw pump.  And the fuel rail instead of Huck's rail.  And the ignition module.  And the water pump pulley.  And I'm sure there are plenty more things that I'm just not remembering.  THANKS!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Gary, I'm the one that's grateful!

There were things under and behind or tangled with other things.
I would have been more respectful to, or removed as a unit.

Had I known, I would have taken a more comprehensive approach, that's all.

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, here's the improved fuel system wiring.  Note that this approach takes the resistance wire out, and eliminates all of the wiring to the '85 fuel pressure relay.  Plus, since the inertia switch and the tank selector switch are close it will be more easily done.






And this lets you see what has been taken out:

[ArdWrknTrk]

It's really odd (to me) the way the FPR is depicted.

It says energized, but is not pulled in toward the coil
Seems almost like their diagram is not showing 87 & 87A correctly, because I don't understand why it should be open when energized (as shown)

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, the EVTM is surely wrong. I ran into several other errors yesterday as well. For instance 85 and 86 were swapped. So it isn’t perfect, but is FAR better than nothing. And surely better than Chiltons or Clymers.

[ArdWrknTrk]

There are almost always mistakes in documentation.
I just needed a reality check, because it had me scratching my head.

And YES!
Way better than Chilton's or Clymers.

[Gary Lewis]

Well, I made some progress today, as shown below.  I'd hoped to get the wheels on, but didn't get the brake hardware on so didn't want to do that.

And, along the way I used one of my tricks - grinding a bearing race down to use as a driver for the new race.  The inside race sits in a recess that is deeper than the race is wide, so if I'd used the old race to press the new one in the old one would have been partially in the hub and have to be extracted.  Instead I put the old race on the roller bearing and held the race to the bench grinding wheel while holding the bearing.  The race runs slower than the wheel and gets ground down, slowly.  I took .010" off and it worked a treat.  

[Gary Lewis]

Today has been a frustrating day.  But I have to remember that two steps forward and one back is still progress.  

First, I set my fancy laptop up to be Janey's computer in her sewing room, but am having problems with it forgetting about the external monitor after a while.  The computer appears to be going to sleep despite me having it set to NEVER.  And when we wake it by moving the mouse it is in a new world.

Second, went to the shop with the goal of getting the brakes and wheels on Big Blue today.  Not going to happen.  The first issue was that I couldn't find the pins the calipers slide on.  (Yes, that's one of the nice features of the '95 D60 - it has the sliding calipers.)  I turned the place upside down and cannot find the pins/bolts I took off.

So I went to Amazon and they had some from several vendors that would fit.  And the Dorman ones were said to be here tomorrow when I ordered them.  But when the email came in it is going to be Wed or Thursday.  I'm NOT playing that game, so canceled the order.

And, since none of the other Amazon-sourced parts could be here any sooner I went to Rock Auto and ordered the Raybestos ones - although I don't know when they'll be here.

Then I discovered that the upper ball joint's grease fitting hit the u-joint.  In the pic below it is actually stuck, but I was able to get it unstuck and out.




Then the question became how to get the smaller straight one in there.  After trying with my fingers I tried this approach, and held it up in place with a screwdriver.  It worked!




And, here's the result, although I don't know how I'm going to grease it.  Guess I'm done wrenching for the day.  

[1986F150Six]

Gary Lewis wrote

Then I discovered that the upper ball joint's grease fitting hit the u-joint.  I

And, here's the result, although I don't know how I'm going to grease it.  Guess I'm done wrenching for the day.  

If enough clearance:

https://greaseextensionhoses.com/product/90o-zero-clearance-elbow/

[ArdWrknTrk]

Chalk one up for the smaller axle yokes in the D44.

The zero clearance grease tip isn't needed if the wheel isn't locked and you can turn the axle between caps.

[Gary Lewis]

David - Thanks, but if I understand that thing correctly it just relocates the grease fitting.  Is that correct?  If so, I'd rather not.  As Jim said, I may be able to get between the knuckles of the u-joints.  Or, find a low profile 90 degree fitting.

Jim - Yes, these huge u-joints limit things quite a bit.

Anyway, I moved on to the brake hoses.  Vernon had supplied some nice Inline Tube Powerbraid hoses and I pulled the old hoses thinking I'd use the new ones - after I reacquainted myself with how to remove Ford brake hoses.  

Then I realized that the end that goes to the caliper is different.  I think they'll work, but what say y'all?




And, the frame ends are different as well.  Ford's hoses have a flat on the fitting to go into the D-shaped hole in the bracket.  But the new hoses are round.  So I'm thinking I'll use the brackets I took off of Huck and make the holes round and use them.

Thoughts?

[Nothing Special]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

....  The zero clearance grease tip isn't needed if the wheel isn't locked and you can turn the axle between caps.

I'm not sure how that would work.  Sure there'd be quite a bit of clearance over the zerk when the axle is turned 45 deg from where Gary's picture shows.  But there's still a U-joint in the way of getting a grease gun in there.  Maybe it would work, and I'd certainly try it before the alternative of pulling the axle shaft out to grease the ball joint.  But I don't think it'd be easy.


And Gary, yes, I think those hoses will attach to your calipers fine (as long as diameters are correct, I can't tell that from here).  And I'd modify the brackets (or use other brackets if available) to fit the round end.

The only thing the D does that I can see is keep it from rotating.  The only time it tries to rotate is when you are tightening or loosening that connection.  And it's no where near strong enough for that, so you're gonna need to put a wrench on it anyway.

[salans7]

Nothing Special wrote

The only thing the D does that I can see is keep it from rotating.  The only time it tries to rotate is when you are tightening or loosening that connection.  And it's no where near strong enough for that, so you're gonna need to put a wrench on it anyway.

I agree.