Got in the 3/8 NPT Tap and I think we are back to normal since it is larger than the 5/8-18 Tap I used yesterday.. I will be installing a water temp gauge in that spot.
Thanks Gary for setting me and whoever will be reading this in the future Straight. “3/8” NPT, which is more like 5/8 really 5/8-18 straight Tap
Vivek
- BB 2WD - 1984 F350 RWD 460/C6 - 1978 Bronco with a 460 from an 86 Bullnose/C6 |
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Yes, you should be fine. I'd forgotten that the 5/8 tap is a bit smaller than the NPT, so you didn't make it too large.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Finished the intake today.
The stud bolt approached worked like magic. The ARP bolts I bought unfortunately were not long enough for the front 2 bolts. And a few other locations only started threading after some of the bolts were in. The crush gasket I suppose kept things apart. Got everything torqued down to 30 ft lbs. I’ll re-torque them when things are at operating temperature. Once the water pump is installed I will do a coolant pressure test on the stand and look for leaks in the cylinders and oil pan. At about 15 PSI. While I’m waiting on the water pump figured I would go ahead and hook up the “metrology”
Vivek
- BB 2WD - 1984 F350 RWD 460/C6 - 1978 Bronco with a 460 from an 86 Bullnose/C6 |
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Nothing on the outside of the engine deserves ARP, except possibly the flywheel bolts, and for them I buy factory with the loctite already on them.
I bought a complete stainless kit from The Bolt Locker on eBay for around $45. I had to get longer exhaust manifold bolts because their 429/460 kit is meant for headers. I did get stainless button heads when I installed my cast valve covers.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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In reply to this post by viven44
Glad things are going together nicely.
How are you going to do the coolant pressure check?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
It was the cheapest option to be honest. I paid about $35 for the set.
The fact that they were 12 pt heads is preferable to me because I want them to be discernible in the future. I’ve loosened intake bolts myself trying to mount a throttle bracket or something else.
Vivek
- BB 2WD - 1984 F350 RWD 460/C6 - 1978 Bronco with a 460 from an 86 Bullnose/C6 |
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
I’m planning to cap the heater hoses and then the water pump output using a 2” PVC cap. Then fill through the thermostat port.
I’m going to pump the PSIs through the thermostat port, using a special adapter that came with the Maddox coolant pressure test kit from harbor freight. Then I’ll use a scope to look in the cylinders and the oil pan is still off.
Vivek
- BB 2WD - 1984 F350 RWD 460/C6 - 1978 Bronco with a 460 from an 86 Bullnose/C6 |
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In reply to this post by viven44
12pt to me means they'll just rust into round nubs sooner, but maybe you don't have these issues.
I'm really surprised you can get a complete bolt kit, from pan to intake, timing housing, thermostat, water pump, exhaust and carb flange for anywhere close to $35, but hey!
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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In reply to this post by viven44
Interesting. You could pump up the pressure and then close a valve and watch the pressure. If it doesn't fall you don't have a leak.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
No, I wish it was the complete set. It was just for the intake bolts. I just don't have any spares whatsoever, and in the future if I found a bolt or 2 that looked suspect, now I have a good inventory.
And to be honest, I have never bought ARP before, and 12 pt has worked well for me in the past, as long as I use a 3/8 12 pt socket and not a 10mm. These bolts are honestly a bit of a sore point, not my happiest spend... I bought these bolts just to get past the shipping threshold. Thats how they get you!!
Vivek
- BB 2WD - 1984 F350 RWD 460/C6 - 1978 Bronco with a 460 from an 86 Bullnose/C6 |
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Thanks! Its not a perfect test by any means, just a gross check to make sure I didn't screw up anything, got RTV in all the spots etc.
I am very absent minded with my ADHD and I had mrs. watch me to make sure I did everything I was supposed to, and not leave a wrench or something in the valley pan
Vivek
- BB 2WD - 1984 F350 RWD 460/C6 - 1978 Bronco with a 460 from an 86 Bullnose/C6 |
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In reply to this post by viven44
Who do you buy from that still has minimum shipping in 2024?
I mean, anything with "free shipping" already has that cost baked in. Companies aren't losing money or eating an expense when they offer "free shipping" they're just screwing you deeper if you don't hit their threshold. 🤷♂️
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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In reply to this post by viven44
So, you're pressurizing the engine from the water pump?
What brand of radiator cap are you going to use?
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
Summit has a $109 minimum shipping. They do have them cheaper than anywhere else, even Amazon. They are about 30 miles away, the other day I just drove over there to pick up the timing set and the water pump plate.
The water pump plate was especially cheaper than elsewhere. Last week Amazon showed $38, but apparently they did a price drop (just checked!!!) Dang it. But I also saved a good chunk on the timing set. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-8501-460BP
Vivek
- BB 2WD - 1984 F350 RWD 460/C6 - 1978 Bronco with a 460 from an 86 Bullnose/C6 |
In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
The engine will be pressurized from the thermostat housing (Sans thermostat) after getting filled with water and the water pump end will be capped with a 2" PVC cap. The heater hose output will be capped as well.
It will be pressure tester -> Adapter -> hose -> Thermostat housing
Vivek
- BB 2WD - 1984 F350 RWD 460/C6 - 1978 Bronco with a 460 from an 86 Bullnose/C6 |
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I guess I never think of buying from summit.
I did buy my clutch and flywheel there because they said it "ships today" But they lied. And had it drop shipped two days later. I suppose you still need to cap the radiator inlet to the water pump if you're going to pressurize the system. If you're concerned about seals, why don't you do it with the thermostat in place and not touch anything when you do to drop the engine in?
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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In reply to this post by viven44
Make SURE you have the best intake bypass hose you can for that 1 1/4 between the intake and water pump.
They get neglected and are difficult to replace when you have to fold it in half with a pair of needlenose pliers.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
Yes that correct, The radiator inlet to the water pump will be capped as well with a 2" cap.
My plan is to get the pressure test done, then turn things upside down, get a good flush out of the thermostat port. Then install oil pan gasket. I'm not enough of an expert on thermostats to know if this would work with a thermostat. I've only used permatex #2 to seal the housing for now, so no gaskets wasted
Vivek
- BB 2WD - 1984 F350 RWD 460/C6 - 1978 Bronco with a 460 from an 86 Bullnose/C6 |
In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
Yes I bought some "duralast" 5/8 heater hose to replace that section. The old one was in terrible shape.. Whoever worked on it, had the hose messed up so bad when they tried to set the intake down maybe and shoved it into the water pump, it was practically closed at the water pump end Many reasons why i'm happy to be re-doing all this !!
Vivek
- BB 2WD - 1984 F350 RWD 460/C6 - 1978 Bronco with a 460 from an 86 Bullnose/C6 |
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In reply to this post by viven44
If I can't find a thermostat with a jiggler I drill a 3/32 hole in the flange.
And I will ONLY use a Stant, Motorcraft or Gates thermostat. I hope your testing goes well!
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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