460 Smog Delete and Oil Cooler Delete for a 78 Bronco Swap

[ArdWrknTrk]

If you keep 460 EGR be very sure to use the Motorcraft pink rubber egr spacer gasket.
It is for a very late carb application (in the F53 RV chassis (It has an E8TE part number..... I've posted it somewhere, and given away probably 8 of them, because I bought a 10 pack)

If you use a crap gasket it WILL blow out the passenger side.
And if you have stock vacuum lines it will cut them and the PCV tube in half just under the secondary vacuum pot.
DAMHIK
Bill will confirm!

But you're right. If one or the other, go for correct valve timing.

When you pull the water pump, closely inspect the backing plate for pitting.
FRPP have new ones for ~$35...

It's going to be in there for a LONG time, and you don't want to lose coolant into the sump.
(Gary's Huck was even missing this! His timing case was broken because of it)

Use copious amounts of PST on all fasteners through the timing case and water pump+backing plate.
Be careful of the convolute weep passages on the back of the timing case where the pump pushes into the engine.
Do NOT pack them with sealant.
They are your lifeline if a leak develops you will see it instead of going straight into the oil pan.

[viven44]

On the EGR Gasket, is that the one between the intake and the spacer ?

I have the one below which seems to be an OEM match. Unable to find the pink one you mentioned.
https://www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-60003-Carburetor-Mounting-Gasket/dp/B000C2E4TO


And what is PST? Thread sealant using gasket maker ?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Fel-pro is NOT OEM

I have posted the number and photos of the bag here and FTE.
I'll have to find it because I'm not near my parts stash now.

Loctite Pipe Sealant w/ Teflon
This is an anerobic meant for refineries and chemical plants.
It is NOT anything from the plumbing aisle!
There have been extensive discussions....
Gary could probably link them.
if you don't like breaking bolts off in the water pump and timing case I've found nothing better.

[viven44]

Thanks! I'll be sure to use that sealant.

Felpro is not OEM, but I meant OEM-style.
The gasket I bought, here's more info on it..

OEM / Interchange Numbers: D9TZ9447D, E5HZ9447B, E8TE9447AA, E8TZ9447A

[ArdWrknTrk]

Lower:
https://www.autopartsandstuff.com/Motorcraft--CG-536-B--Carburetor-Mounting-Gasket_p_48927.html

https://www.ebay.com/itm/275138048802

Upper:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/174487054818


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1341984-egr-spacer-gaskets.html

[ArdWrknTrk]

It's garbage
Trust me, it won't last.

Ask Bill
Or Gary.
Or any other 460 guy that has to keep replacing all their vacuum lines.

ETA
I've got to say, at least you seem to believe me.
A lot of people are incredulous, about a lot of things...
Learning to drive stick at 12 in a Ferrari.
Being run over by a tractor trailer. Lots of things..🙄

[viven44]

Dang! I’ve been looking for these a while, every original truck i resuscitated in the past had that upper gasket that I got rid of and used a cheap aftermarket one. Thanks a lot

I believe the lower gasket I have is pretty much the same, but I’ll go ahead and get these as well.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Is that Fel-pro one pink rubber?

I've never seen that before.

[viven44]

The felpro one is not rubber, it’s got a metal framework with conventional carb gasket material on both sides.

Speaking of gaskets, I do not like this Fel Pro splash pan gasket at all, with its multi layer construction… it won’t conform well and doesn’t lay flat at all.. I can already predict “milkshakes”. Makes me want to go back to my Aluminum intake route… if this is what I have to deal with on a cast iron manifold. I don’t like these one bit!!

The metal part is so big it even overlaps over the china walls on the front and back.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Managing to lower the incredibly heavy cast iron manifold straight down without letting* that turkey pan to budge is quite the challenge!

Gary says to get two long 3/8 bolts cut the heads off and thread them in opposite corners the vertical holes in the heads

Use them as guides.
IDK, I went to aluminum in '89 and haven't looked back

[Gary Lewis]

I've not done a cast iron manifold on a 460, but that trick works on a 351W - although you do have to make sure you lower the manifold "level" with respect to the engine.  DAHIK.  And since the 460 manifold is HEAVY, that might be a chore.

[viven44]

Okay. I'm actually glad I did this today. I got this other splash pan gasket for free along with "Big Blue 2WD".  I don't like the fact that it is so unwieldy and the front and rear metal parts are over the "china walls". If I do go the Aluminum route this gasket will provide me plenty of thin "block off" material to block the exhaust crossover..

So much for me wanting to keep EGR and keeping a stock distributor

You can probably tell i'm looking for all the right excuses to justify going Aluminum

[ArdWrknTrk]

Purchase intake gaskets with the block off plates already adhered.
You don't want it be juggling little pieces of tin* covered in slippery silicone when you're trying to get that intake down square.

I should have said, above, that short of the squeezy cheese can of  "The Right Stuff" I will go with the ultra Gray, front and back every day.

[viven44]

Okay!! And around the coolant ports, would permatex #2 do well ? I've always thought a non-hardening sealant is required. Not sure if ultra-black and ultra-grey are considered non-hardening.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'm sure* #2 would be fine, but I always just use a light smear of whatever tube I have in my hand.

I don't see intake gasket leaks...  🤨

[viven44]

About the block-off intake gasket, I don't believe a metal based block-off gasket is available. Edelbrock themselves supply one #7223 but its gasket material only at the block-off. I've read those don't last long and will burn through.

I don't believe it would be too hard to device a metal block off from old valley pan material. It would be a lesser challenge than dealing with the heavy cast iron and that unwieldy metal gasket.

https://www.amazon.com/Edelbrock-7223-GASKET/dp/B000CSQU7M

[ArdWrknTrk]

You may be right.  
The AFR and Trick Flow ones all have SCJ ports.

I use the blue Fel-Pro Print-O-Seal* gaskets myself,
But I really need the floor of my plenum heated in winter

[viven44]

I haven't a 100% made up my mind yet on the block-off. But just for the heck of it, I carried the cast iron intake to the bathroom scale. Weighs about 55 lbs, but sure does feel heavier than that. That is still a lot of weight to be assembled onto the block for 1 person and get it all right.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Somewhat* more realistically, 35 lb...
Try reaching over the fender, to do it in situ.
It's not easy!

[viven44]

Ordering supplies now from summit.. and need to order fuel line. Either 5/16 or 3/8. Going back the fuel pump.. That is a primary concern for a Bronco indeed. The tank hangs almost above the halfway point of the differential. The goal is to have it as low and close to the tank as possible so the amount of time spent generating a vacuum is minimized and thereby reducing chance of a vapor lock. Supposedly angling up the pump by about 30 degrees also reduces chance of vapor lock. I am planning to mount it on a custom L bracket right beside the tank skid plate, and in front of the "pumpkin"....

Question - will 5/16 or 3/8 line be preferable fuel pump (behind rearend) to carb...  ? I think whats on the 78 bronco now is a 5/16 line for the 400 it came with, but i think the 86 460 had a 3/8 supply line if I am not mistaken.