1982 Bronco 351 4x4 - Code name Esperanza

[Gary Lewis]

Gsmblue wrote

Getting the vacuum helped tremendously. I set the beet lean idle. I really think the AFR gauge is key and I think this engine wants more gas! Looking forward to finding out!

Not sure I understand.  "Getting the vacuum"?  "beet lean idle"?  

[ArdWrknTrk]

Getting the vacuum gauge... from Horrid Fate??

Best lean idle????

I know I fat finger my phone, or it decides what IT wants to say

[Gary Lewis]

Ahhh!  That's probably it.  Thanks, Jim.  My imagination just couldn't come up with anything.

[Gsmblue]

Oh boy, I should never rush typing on a phone. But you are correct!

Original posted edited for clarity.

[Gsmblue]

This has arrived while I was away. 3 row aluminum jobby. It is an ebay purchase as no one had any stock. I called a few places and they all sounded like they were waiting for shipments from China.

Hoping to put it in tomorrow after work.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Oooooh..  😛.  That looks nice!

Does Espy have a cooling problem?  🧐
Or is it 'just for pretty'?

Do the transmission cooler bungs fit the factory adapters?

[Gary Lewis]

I like it!  Pretty!

[grumpin]

Nice! I have a 3 row aluminum in my truck and a 4 row aluminum in my Bronco.

[Gsmblue]

Just for pretty really.

I think I need to check the thermostat rating as the engine never get warm on the gauge. I checked the gauge and that pins when grounded. The sensor is giving some info to the gauge as it is moving it a little, but only just above the “C” for cold.

Not sure if it could be a bad sender.

[ArdWrknTrk]

It could be.
These wax pellet senders seem to fail slowly.

I had to replace mine not too long ago.

[Gsmblue]

Interesting.

New radiator is in. So is the later model coolant reservoir. I put a gallon and a half of coolant in, about a half gallon of distilled water. So far from full. Then I drove 0.5miles to the store to get some distilled water, the needle happily moved past “C” on the gauge as I parked up. Added more fluids then drove home. Tightened clamps, added more fluids. Put distilled water in the reservoir then hosed everything down.

Tomorrow I will continue the bleeding process and check the coolant mix with the float gauge thing.

A work in progress, as always.

[Gary Lewis]

Seems like you are making good progress.  And, as Jim is apt to say, progress is GOOD!  

[Gsmblue]

Radiator is cooling and the reservoir has its new bung in place.

I put the O2 sensor in today. The shop put the bung at the bottom of the long tube headers.

These values are once warmed up:

Idle 11-11.5
Cruise 12-12.5
WOT 12.5-13

My Edlebrock 1406 is running one stage rich on cruise, stock on power. I am using stiffer springs and the pump set to the inner most position. I think I will change the rods back to stock and tweak the idle screws.

I do have a new pressure regulator to put in too, but the weather is miserable... cold and wet..

[Gsmblue]

Changed the metering rods back to stock. Kept the pink springs in and the pump setting to the inside.

Let her warm up and then adjusted the idle screws. Took a spin. New numbers:

Idle 14
Cruise 13
WOT 12

Very happy with these numbers. I think I am done with this part!

While I was out there I also changed in the new washer motor so I can clean the windscreen now :)

All in all, a good afternoon. Took a cruise, everything sounds and feels good.

I will be ordering some KO2s in 33x12.5x15 soon, maybe end of the month. The soft top should arrive next month too.

Everything is coming together. Soon it will be warm and I can tend to the surface rust...

[Gary Lewis]

Congrat's!  Things are really coming together.  

But, you are lean at idle and rich at cruise, so if you want to do more tuning I'd shoot for 13 at idle and 14 - 15 for cruise.  Your MPG will improve.

[Gsmblue]

Hmmm..

Maybe I can go 1 stage lean on cruise again.

It is an easy change so I will probably try that.

[Gary Lewis]

That's what I'd do - swap out the rods.  So easy to loosen the two screw, swivel the plate, swap the rods, and reverse the above procedure.

And even if it gets a little lean as you ease into the throttle for a hill you can then change out the springs for the next stronger ones to pop up the rods to enrichen things a bit.

[Gary Lewis]

I should have also suggested opening up the idle mix screws to get the idle AFR to 12.5 - 13:1.  If you lean out the cruise you may have a tip-in bog, and a slightly richer idle mix will help cover that up.

[Gsmblue]

Now I have the AFR gauge all old this is possible. Before I felt like I was shooting in the dark and sensing changes from the seat of my pants!

Looking forward to some play time!

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, the wideband AFR meter changes everything.

But if your situation is like all others I've encountered, the AFR will be all over the map.  It'll change with RPM & it'll change with load, and to some extent temperature.

So I try to set my "cruise" AFR when running a set speed, usually 65 MPH, on level ground with no wind.  And if I can get it to ~14.5:1 then I'll see it go up to ~16:1 as I ease into the throttle for a hill or to counter some wind.  But at ~16:1 the engine starts losing some oomph, so I want the metering rods to come up about then and enrichen the mix.

But all of that is somewhat variable as your AFR meter won't read the same as mine, and your engine isn't the same as mine.  So what I think is 14.5:1 may not be the same as what you think is 14.5:1.  And your engine may like 17:1 when mine doesn't.

IOW, you need to tune your setup for what works best for it.  But I'd still shoot for ~14.5:1 at 65 in top gear on level ground with no wind as a starting point.

And when I say "~14.5" I really mean "mid-14's" as the adjustments in your carb are so course that you can't change it up or down by less than ~.5 - if that.

Have fun!!!!!