1982 Bronco 351 4x4 - Code name Esperanza

[Gsmblue]

In the continuing saga of the transmission.l. It looks like there is a fluid leak at the rebuilt transfer case, well, the bottom of it has red fluid there AND the transmission started slipping today.

I will be calling the shop as it has a 24month warranty. What a disaster this transmission has been.  For those reading, I had the c6 swapped for a aod for better highway crushing.

[Gary Lewis]

Bummer!  You’ve really had issues with that tranny.

[Gsmblue]

A few small things have been happening recently and some more things are on the cards now we are entering spring.

Transmission:
This is a turd. The warranty runs through to August this year. It is leaking oil out of the front of the transmission now. The transfer case is leaking from a few spots. It slips in 3rd/4th randomly and sometimes won't even find 1st when pulling away. This is not drivable for my wife - which was the whole point of this AOD transmission, make it more drivable for her.  

The transmission shop is not standing by its warranty.  "This is just how the transmission shifts" and "The transfer case leak is from the pinion seal being worn and is not covered by warranty". I have another shop lined up to "fix" this mess so I am trying to work out how to proceed here. Part of me thinks I should just leave a review of "The Original bend Transmission Company" on google or yelp and maybe file a complaint with the BBB then move on. Another part of me wants hold them accountable and make them do it right and potentially go to small claims. Sometimes cutting your loses is the way to go. they have had 4 goes at this transmission/transfer case.. Any advice is welcomed.

Alternator:
The stock 40A unit was not keeping up with the demands of upgraded lights and a hefty sound system. I upgraded to a 1-wire alternator by Powermaster. It  puts out ~100A at idle and 150A at full tilt. My dash lights no longer dim at idle and the stereo seems happier. This was originally supposed to be a 3G alternator, but these things happen!

Steering stabilizer:
For some reason it had become disconnected. I am not sure if this while it was at the shop last or if the bottom nut came undone. Either way a new MOOG unit went on and I kept the previous one to put on my F150 at a later date - when I source the appropriate bushings..

Carburetor:
On my Edelbrock 1406 I had at some point, prior to the engine build, replaced the rods and jets to run one stage lean in cruise and power. Since the rebuild I was getting occasional backfires somewhere upfront when at low revs cruising so I have returned the carb to stock calibration with the original rods and jets. I checked the timing at it is running about 10BTDC when warm and the vacuum advance plugged. It is much better than it was but there is something funky going on in the transition from cruise to power. It will slightly bog down and I am still getting some popping and stumbling once every 10 miles or so when cruising. I do need to readjust the lean best idle it is definitely running rich. A few things to work out here.

AFR:
Thinking of ordering a AEM AFR to help understand what is going on with the above..

Blue top steering gear:
This is annoying. I asked the local mechanic to replace the steering box with a blue top. They put in a non branded reman. I took it back and asked them to check it as it was sloppy and if they couldn't then please put a blue top in. When i picked it up it has the same reman box and they said of the steering "that is just how old trucks are".

Unfortunately I am done with that shop. It has cost me more money to deal with them than I would like. At first I was happy with them making extra effort and they are nice people. But end of the day they are not getting done what I want done so time to move on. I still don't have an engine build sheet from them for the rebuild. they didn't plug in the vacuum lines after the engine went in, they didn't tune the carb merely reinstalled it - even though I told them it was 1 stage lean and gave them the tuning kit.  I think they left the steering stabilizer disconnected. I asked them to do the rear axle seals and pinion seal and they didn't. Now, not all of it was bad. They did get the transmission working better with a new shift rod and a few other things that escape my memory now... Not bad people, not mad at them but at the end of the day they are just not doing what I am asking them to do. I think they are just stretched and stressed.

Sorry for the rant!

I have now ordered the blue top and it is supposed to be delivered on Monday. I will get my hands on a pitman arm puller and some PS fluid in preparation.

Tires:
I was about to order some 33inch KO2s to replace the 31inch Duratracs. But they are on back order. So I will wait until next month. This is purely aesthetic.

Otherwise I have been driving Espy regularly. She needs some tweaking before I pull the roof off and hand the keys to my wife for the summer but I am confident these things can be worked out.

[Gary Lewis]

Good update, although not so good on some of the details.

Bummer on the tranny and t-case.  But I think it is time to move on.  Those people are either incapable of doing it correctly or unwilling to do so, and going to court will be a pain and expense.  I think I'd consider writing up what you are going to say on the review awa to the BBB and present it to them awa to what shop you are going to take it.  And that when XYZ shop says "yes there were these problems" you are going to post that as well.

Perhaps you can get them to have another go at it, but at least they'll know that you mean business and the competition is going to get to see their handiwork and the official report will be on their site for everyone to see.

As for the steering gear, if you asked for a Blue Top and they didn't do it I would have deducted the cost of the replacement box from their bill, paid them by writing "Paid in full" on the receipt, and used that money to help fund the BT box.  When you ask for something specific they either give it to you or you don't pay for it.  It they aren't bad people they'll agree with that approach.

On the popping and stumbling, you are either still running quite lean or have an electrical problem.  Like maybe a plug wire loose?  But the AEM AFR meter should help you suss that.  (Oops, the others may not understand.  )

[Gsmblue]

Thanks Gary.

I don't have a O2 port on my new exhaust. So I will pop into the exhaust shop and chat with them before ordering the AES AFR.

With the transmission and transferase I popped under the truck and took these pics:

Transfer case drain plug


Transfer case pinion leak


Oil pain drip


Bell housing drip



I emailed the pics to the shop. I got a response back already saying they will review and get back to me next week. So let's see what happens. This is the last chance for this very suss transmission shop.

[Gary Lewis]

Good plan, Stan.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Sorry to see you're still dealing with leaks and a sloppy transmission.
Procedure and proper prep should have eliminated any of that, but your past experience was evidence of how conscientious the transmission shop is.

I would agree with Gary that popping on trailing throttle or cruise is either a lean condition or even a tiny exhaust leak.
I know that sounds implausible but I've seen it too many times.

BTW, there is no pinion in a transfer case. That is an output (flange, spline or yoke) seal. A pinion is the shaft/gear that drives a ring gear. So they only exist at the differentials. not a criticism, but a point of clarification

Maybe the shop didn't lube the seal before inserting the yoke? Maybe the yoke was scored and they didn't replace it or install a sleeve? Maybe they knocked the garter spring out when installing the seal or inserting the yoke?
I usually pack the back lip with grease before installing the seal in the case. It eliminates two of the above possibilities.

Espy deserves better and hopefully she will be in top nick for Mrs Blue soon.

[ArdWrknTrk]

The exhaust shop should be able to weld an O² bung into your Y-pipe (or wherever the manufacturer recommends)

They are cheap and a Unibit (step drill) makes a clean hole without chatter.

[Gsmblue]

Thanks Jim.

I had a good chat with the exhaust shop. I ordered the AES AFR 30-4110 and a pod to mount it in. When it arrives I will install the pod, run the wires etc. The shop said to call them once I am ready and they can deal with the bung and the O2 sensor. So I am hoping that all happens next week before I have to go on a work trip.

The transmission shop tell me they are going to review my pic with the owner next week...

May be turning a corner here :)

All the bodyshops in town are backed up at least 6 months - from the calls I have made today. So I may end up dealing with some of the wheel arch rust with bondo until I can learn to weld!

[Gary Lewis]

I hope you are turning a corner.  And sometimes just telling them what you are going to do is enough.

My brother bought an FJ Cruiser a few years ago off a used car lot.  It didn't drive very well due to oversized tires, but he brought it down and we put it on the lift.  The tire sidewalls were rubbing on the brake line.  He went back and asked them to replace the tires and they refused.  He explained that he was going to post a review of them having sold him an unsafe vehicle and include the pics we took.  They replaced the tires.

There are really good things an really bad things associated with social media, but one of the good things is that you have a whole lot more leverage on businesses.

[Gsmblue]

Nice work.

I think I am used to being in professional environment where people get things done without handholding and this is the first time I have been dealing with independent business owners.

My expectations have not been met with any of the work I have had other people do. Even the tire guys put the weights on the outside of the wheel despite a long discussion prior!

This sounds silly, but I think my accent is a barrier sometimes. I have a "thick" North London accent. Think a minor character in a Guy Ritchie movie. It happens when I meet new people they get focussed on how I am saying something not what I am saying. I have to repeat myself all too often.

1st time I say something the person is thinking "Oh, he has an accent."
2nd time I say the same thing the person is thinking "I wonder where he is from?"
3rd time I say the same thing the person is thinking "Oh, he asked me a question I should respond."

Now to be clear, this is how my friend diagnosed it, he finds it hysterical and is my self appointed translator, I should take him to the garages with me

[Gary Lewis]

North London has an accent?  You mean w/in the sound of the Bow Bells?  

Yes, I know that's E/NE London.  But having lived in Northwood/Moor Park and worked in the West End, what is now a car dealership on the backside of Selfridge's, I wasn't aware there was a specific accent for north London.  However, as I think about it, I worked with people from all over the UK rather than locals, so I guess I wouldn't have been aware of a specific accent.

On the 3 times to say something, I think you are right for most people.  Unfortunately I find myself thinking "Where's that accent from?"  But that's on the first pass, and I usually get the statement on the second pass.

Case in point: The young lady that was interviewing someone from church about Ukraine was obviously from the UK.  I guessed Yorkshire, but it was Lincolnshire.  Oops!  

[ArdWrknTrk]

Perhaps you should?  🤔

Or a greasy 20 stone biker named "Tiny" carrying 3' of chain and a J hook...

[Gsmblue]

Please introduce me to Tiny!!!!

I am also on the nice side and I want to be a good customer. It seems to have the opposite effect!

[Gsmblue]

I have the AES AFR gauge in hand AND my blue top steering box.

Tonight I picked up some Mecron, a pitman arm puller and a 33mm socket (which I am told is the size for the pitman arm nut). I drove all over town to find that and had to buy a set.. So more money than planned but now I have a more complete set of sockets so I shouldn't complain too much.

Due to the rain I didn't fancy tackling anything outside so I cleared the garage from all the weekend fun and got all the tools I should need staged so I can try and attack both jobs after work tomorrow.

Hopefully this goes smoothly for a change!

[ArdWrknTrk]

The nut is 1 5/16" which is a wee bit larger than 33 but the socket should fit.

Loosen the nut out towards the end but don't remove it all the way, if you can with your puller.
(better it only goes 'bang' when it comes free than flying)
Place the puller so that you'll have a good swing at the boss of the pitman arm itself.
If you have trouble getting it off don't just use a bigger cheater pipe.
Get a good amount of tension on the puller screw (80-100 ft lb?) and then sharply hit the pitman arm at the side of the taper with something like a 3# lump or drilling hammer.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Do you have a crow's foot line wrench to remove the pressure line from the top of the box?

[Gsmblue]

I do not!

What size will i need? I can pick that up easily!

The steering box on there was only recently put on so i am hoping it makes it easier to take off… bit thanks for the advice, wise words.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'd have to check my steering box.
My brother has borrowed all my line wrenches and vacuum pump to work on his car.

Maybe if I just look up the hose online?

[Gsmblue]

That’s ok, I’ll take some regular wrenches to it and get the size. ACE hardware is super close.

Here is a pic of the box and the AFR box lurking in the background: