1981 Ford F100 Revival (Parked for 12 years)

[Jonathan]

Taking a rain break now. Just happy it is raining finally.

[FuzzFace2]

When you do let us know how it works.
Only thing to think about is if it is applied to the truck and down the road you want to repaint it will it react to auto paint or not?
What will be needed to repaint over it? Will it need to be removed first and if so how?

For me if that was my truck in the picture of the can I would repaint it back the way it is as thats a pretty color and when done a pretty truck.

Then again I can do the paint work my self where others can not.
Dave ----

[Jonathan]

FuzzFace2 wrote

When you do let us know how it works.
Only thing to think about is if it is applied to the truck and down the road you want to repaint it will it react to auto paint or not?
What will be needed to repaint over it? Will it need to be removed first and if so how?

For me if that was my truck in the picture of the can I would repaint it back the way it is as thats a pretty color and when done a pretty truck.

Then again I can do the paint work my self where others can not.
Dave ----

I think normal paint prep will probably get rid of it.

"The Patina “Sauce” is a simple wipe on wipe off formula that provides a luminous finish that shows the character, depth and beauty of your patina’ ride. It helps prevent and preserve further deterioration, offers a layer of water resistant protection that helps inhibit rust and polymerizes to a hard finish."

https://sweetpatina.bigcartel.com/product/patina-sauce

[Jonathan]

After the rain stopped I installed the metal straps and removed the ratchet straps. The tank now has nice tan lines! I should get the CRC corrosion inhibitor on Thursday to touch up the tank where the temp straps were. For the ends I put on Fluid Film but I don't like it. It stays too moist and runny and bubbles up. The CRC spray is much better long term protection that sticks on smooth and creates a barrier.

With the metal straps in I felt confident to add some fuel. I had 5 gallons but couldn't get it to tilt up enough to fuel up so I had to use a funnel. After putting in all 5 gallons the fuel gauge hardly read over Empty. I think it is because my truck is on a 15 degree incline.

[rcarlisle]

That's about where mine reads when it has 5 gallons left, but the slope will affect it as well.  IT's a Ford thing apparently.  My mom's 78 Granada had the same gauge and read the same way.   At full, will probably read way over.  

Tank looking GREAT!

Did ya happen to turn on that key on into start position????  Getting closer to bringing the thunder...

[ArdWrknTrk]

I think you misunderstand.
Fluid Film is supposed to stay fluid...

It will creep through dust/rust and cling to the metal.
It also won't scratch and leave a bare spot.

While it's messy, it IS effective for those of us who have to deal with winter road salt.

Your truck is looking great!
I hope you get it running soon.  

[Jonathan]

rcarlisle wrote

That's about where mine reads when it has 5 gallons left, but the slope will affect it as well.  IT's a Ford thing apparently.  My mom's 78 Granada had the same gauge and read the same way.   At full, will probably read way over.  

Tank looking GREAT!

Did ya happen to turn on that key on into start position????  Getting closer to bringing the thunder...

Thanks for the feedback on fuel level. I was wondering what is "normal" for this truck.

I didn't dare turn the key all the way yet. Building the suspense!

[Jonathan]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I think you misunderstand.
Fluid Film is supposed to stay fluid...

It will creep through dust/rust and cling to the metal.
It also won't scratch and leave a bare spot.

While it's messy, it IS effective for those of us who have to deal with winter road salt.

Your truck is looking great!
I hope you get it running soon.  

Thanks for the Fluid Film feedback. I can see where it can be useful for different applications. But for the tank I prefer the CRC. It sticks nice and is less messy. You can move it around without wiping off on everything it touches. Project Farm (YouTube) did some good tests that you may find interesting. Link below. He didn't review my exact CRC spray but I think it is the same stuff as the CRC "Marine" one.

https://youtu.be/lyWHF4NoNVk

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'm subbed to that channel, and have seen the video..  
You might have a look at the channel Mustie1, which uses beeswax and bar oil as an undercoat.
The struggle is real here in the salty northeast.

I agree 100% that the lanolin solution is messy.
Anything is better than rubberized undercoat which actually promotes chassis and body rot by trapping salty water in crevasses.

[Gary Lewis]

You are on a ROLL!  Both Amazon and Inline Tube sends you the right stuff, eventually.

[Jonathan]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I'm subbed to that channel, and have seen the video..  
You might have a look at the channel Mustie1, which uses beeswax and bar oil as an undercoat.
The struggle is real here in the salty northeast.

I agree 100% that the lanolin solution is messy.
Anything is better than rubberized undercoat which actually promotes chassis and body rot by trapping salty water in crevasses.

I have not heard of Mustie1. I will check that out.

[Jonathan]

Gary Lewis wrote

You are on a ROLL!  Both Amazon and Inline Tube sends you the right stuff, eventually.

Sometimes I feel like I am walking into the wind in a strong storm where you have to lean forward or you will be blown back. There has been some parts challenges in this revival. But I keep marching forward.

[Jonathan]

I have good news. The truck started for the first time and ran! Not only that but it started up immediately with no delay at all. I didn't even remove the air cleaner to help it in any way. I purged the fuel line up to the carb, connected the spark plug wires back and fired her up. I left all the old spark components in for the first fire just to see what would happen. The original brain box, coil, cap and rotor, spark plugs and spark plug wires work well enough to run so far. But I have new replacements ready to go in when I get to that point. I only ran it for 5 mins to get the oil flowing and will change it this weekend after warming it up again. I added some coolant after I turned it off. It was low, I should have checked that first.

So after running I did a post run inspection. I found an oil puddle formed at the base of the engine where the transmission meets. Hopefully the seals will get better after running again. Maybe they will swell up, I hope. I am going to try some seal rejuvenator things after I change the oil to see if that helps.

Next I need to get it to stop. I push my foot on the brake peddle and it won't build pressure.






 

[Gary Lewis]

Congrat's!!!!  That's wonderful!

On the oil leak, the new oil should help, as will actually running it like you did.  But I'd try that before I hit it with seal swell.  You can always add it later.

[Jonathan]

So I really want to test drive the truck but I can't back out the driveway with no brakes. I started on the driver's side front. Bleeding the brakes no blood came out. I slowly worked my way back removing connection by connection until I found the blockage. The block is somewhere in the line but I don't know where. AutoZone has the softline but not the hardline. And I got a new master cylinder. They only had the drinkers side softline so I had to order in the captain's side in. Hopefully I can clear out the line. But I ran out of brake cleaner so I couldn't try to clear it long before I ran out. The softline is rubber so maybe it swelled shut inside. After I remove it I will try to get fluid to flow before connecting the new rubber line. I also have a power booster on order to be safe.

The first picture is exactly how I found the master cylinder when I removed the cover for the first time. The rear brake reservoir was a little low. The front brake reservoir was very murky and full of contamination on the bottom.

After I disconnected the line going to the proportioning valve fluid started to drain from the master cylinder. I had to stop it to prevent all that gunk getting in there. Randy suggested a turkey baster which I used to get the rest out.

[Jonathan]

Gary Lewis wrote

Congrat's!!!!  That's wonderful!

On the oil leak, the new oil should help, as will actually running it like you did.  But I'd try that before I hit it with seal swell.  You can always add it later.

Thanks Gary. I hope things will settle in after it is running a while. Lots of smoke and burning smell right now too. But I guess after sitting for 12 years it has a few things to burn off.

[Gary Lewis]

That brake fluid looks awful!

And the brake hoses can swell shut inside.  In fact, they can act as a check valve, allowing the pressure to set the brakes but not letting it drop off to release them.  So it is wise to replace them.

Good luck with the project.  But I'll warn you that it is likely the rear wheel cylinders will be bad as well.  In my experience when the fluid is that rusty then there are several problems, and the rears seem to be a prime candidate.

[Jonathan]

Gary Lewis wrote

That brake fluid looks awful!

And the brake hoses can swell shut inside.  In fact, they can act as a check valve, allowing the pressure to set the brakes but not letting it drop off to release them.  So it is wise to replace them.

Good luck with the project.  But I'll warn you that it is likely the rear wheel cylinders will be bad as well.  In my experience when the fluid is that rusty then there are several problems, and the rears seem to be a prime candidate.

Should I just go ahead and order before 4pm? If I order before 4pm I can get it tomorrow. After 4pm and I won't get until next Wednesday.  And for the fronts how do I measure the rear drums? LOL It sounds so backwards. Do I measure from the inside or outside? I really don't have much time to pull them before 4pm so I am hoping there is a easy way to tell. It seems based on stock 11" rear is more common.

[rcarlisle]

I got my wheel cyclinders at Advance or Oreillys, in stock.   I bought everything but the hardware pack locally so I could return it if necessary.   I bought the hardware on Amazon because it seemed to be the most complete kit in one package for one price.  No mixing and matching.  The rears may have rusted into pieces by now.  Seems like a lot have.

[Gary Lewis]

The master parts catalog, shown at Documentation/Driveline/Brakes, says that F100's with manual brakes have 11" drums and those with power brakes have 10" drums.  But to verify that you should measure the inside of the drums.  And you probably should verify that.