I need to replace my 85's old tie rods, any expert/non-expert recomendations?
85 6.9IDI 4 door rusty beast
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Administrator
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I'm no expert, but I've replaced mine a couple of times. What I would tell you is to spend the money and get quality parts.
John
"Blackie" - 1986 F150 4x4 - Mildly warmed over 351W HO - Original owner |
In reply to this post by 85blueox
Don't try to count threads or the like to put it back where it was.
Make a mark or use a fixed point on the other part of the link. Measure the distance from the mark to the center of the tie rod end. (Where they used to put grease zerts) and install new one to that measurement.
Bruce aka Moose--1978 F250 LWB Flareside, Dana 60's w/ 4:10's, 460, c6
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I agree, what manufacturers are the best to go with?
85 6.9IDI 4 door rusty beast
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I don't know about claiming any one as best, but I have had great results using moog parts.
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I have MOOG parts in my Amazon cart, just waiting for the weather to improve before pulling the trigger.
1985.5 F-150 XL Explorer standard cab 5.0 EFI AOD 4x4
Daily Driver. We call her Eunice the Ute. 1982 Bronco XLT Lariat 351W AOD 4x4 Code name Esperanza, or Espy to her friends. Please see my Project thread for the blow by blow. 1984 F-350 XL Centurion crew cab 460 T19 4x4 "Eylza Dual-little" |
Administrator
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In reply to this post by mat in tn
Yes, MOOG! As I recall, MOOG has a line that is top rated and the best. Can't recall the specifics now but that is what I went with.
John
"Blackie" - 1986 F150 4x4 - Mildly warmed over 351W HO - Original owner |
been on Moog's site trying to find which ones, not a very helpful site. Does'nt really tell me which ones I need.
85 6.9IDI 4 door rusty beast
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Here is the page I pulled on on Moog. I used F150 1985, You can click on the interactive diagrams to see a pic.
https://www.drivparts.com/results.html?type%5Bvalue%5D=2,8&type%5Blabel%5D=Car%20%26%20Truck&year%5Bvalue%5D=1985&year%5Blabel%5D=1985&make%5Bvalue%5D=54&make%5Blabel%5D=Ford&model%5Bvalue%5D=666&model%5Blabel%5D=F-150&searchType=vehicle&brandInfo%5Blabel%5D=MOOG&brandInfo%5Bvalue%5D=BCCH#filters%5Bcategories%5D%5Bcategories%5D%5B15%5D=&filters%5Bcategories%5D%5Bbrands%5D%5BBCCH%5D=
Bruce aka Moose--1978 F250 LWB Flareside, Dana 60's w/ 4:10's, 460, c6
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And i just ordered MOOG ball joints, tie rods, ends, camber nuts, springs, spring seats and Bilstein shocks
I have radius arm bushings already. This will go with the hub/rotor assemblies, Timken bearings, rotors and calipers/pads i already picked up. Just need brake dust shields abs power steering lines to complete. Already have blue top and borg in there Gonna be busy when the weather gets a little better.
1985.5 F-150 XL Explorer standard cab 5.0 EFI AOD 4x4
Daily Driver. We call her Eunice the Ute. 1982 Bronco XLT Lariat 351W AOD 4x4 Code name Esperanza, or Espy to her friends. Please see my Project thread for the blow by blow. 1984 F-350 XL Centurion crew cab 460 T19 4x4 "Eylza Dual-little" |
Administrator
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That's going to tighten things up nicely.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Administrator
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In reply to this post by Gsmblue
I did all that and added a steering dampner to my truck and could not be more pleased in the outcome. I think it's now better than it was when new. I finally love the steering in my truck!!!
As I added the steering dampner later, I got "maybe" a slight sense in improvement over a non-damner set up. Might just be wishful thinking though. Regardless, the biggest reason I went with the dampner was to help maintain the longevity/life span of those expensive MOOG parts. Some might argue that, but I've researched it and read up on this point. Guess only time will tell.
John
"Blackie" - 1986 F150 4x4 - Mildly warmed over 351W HO - Original owner |
I too use a steering damper but the best things for longevity is are good alignment and grease.
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In reply to this post by 85blueox
Moog, always buy Moog.
It is the brand we use at the shop and I have always used Moog. To show the quality I replaced mine in my truck years ago, about three or four years later there was a road construction and the lane moved onto the other side of the road but they didnt cut the curb back far enough hit it with my left wheel at 40 mph and kicked the wheel up off the ground. I drove it for another 3 years till I was under the truck and saw a slight bend in the inner tie rod. Never felt different nor wore the tire differently. I replaced it when I saw it though, this is why I use Moog they are quality parts and they can take abuse without failing. If the price is too much Moog has a entry level components which is what I used on my El Camino as the local stores couldn't get me the regular Moog components but its the same Moog quality just using cheaper materials in some areas but they are still considerably better than the other name brand components.
"Old Blue" - '56 Fairlane Town Sedan - 292-4V, Ford-O-Matic transmission, 3.22:1
'63 Belair 2dr sdn - 283-4V, Powerglide transmission, 4.56:1 '78 Cougar XR7 - 351-2V, FMX transmission, 2.75:1 9inch "Bruno" - '82 F150 Flareside - 302-2V, C6 transmission, 2.75:1 9inch, 31x10.50-15 BFG KO2 |
In reply to this post by mat in tn
What was the reason for adding the steering damper? I thought of adding one to my 2wd truck since I have 31x10.50-15 KO2s but I never did it as I felt it wouldn't be worth the money.
"Old Blue" - '56 Fairlane Town Sedan - 292-4V, Ford-O-Matic transmission, 3.22:1
'63 Belair 2dr sdn - 283-4V, Powerglide transmission, 4.56:1 '78 Cougar XR7 - 351-2V, FMX transmission, 2.75:1 9inch "Bruno" - '82 F150 Flareside - 302-2V, C6 transmission, 2.75:1 9inch, 31x10.50-15 BFG KO2 |
I bought my first truck in my twenties. it had roll bar, lights, 33s a body lift and a train horn. I was hooked! so I bought a big yellow stabilizer from Heckathorn in Dyersburg tn. seemed like the thing to do.
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Ah ok I was wondering. I thought of doing it but it seems like no matter who you ask you end up with a hand full of different reasons for correcting various issues that doesn't seem to be a fix by adding a shock on your steering linkage.
"Old Blue" - '56 Fairlane Town Sedan - 292-4V, Ford-O-Matic transmission, 3.22:1
'63 Belair 2dr sdn - 283-4V, Powerglide transmission, 4.56:1 '78 Cougar XR7 - 351-2V, FMX transmission, 2.75:1 9inch "Bruno" - '82 F150 Flareside - 302-2V, C6 transmission, 2.75:1 9inch, 31x10.50-15 BFG KO2 |
Administrator
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A steering damper is frequently fitted to a vehicle going off road, and one of the reasons is to keep the frequent impact with rocks and holes from effecting the steering, and especially from moving it so abruptly as to take the steering wheel away from the driver.
If I remember correctly John/Machspeed has said that he added a steering damper to protect the new steering components. I think his theory is that it will minimize the movement of the steering and, therefore, minimize the wear. And I'm considering adding one to Big Blue for a similar reason. Not wear but smoother steering. On rough roads you have to pay attention as the holes or bumps tend to cause steering - bump steer. Might a damper minimize that?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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I guess its possible, but every truck I've seen with them installed, meaning late model trucks they still had a pull on the wheel when hitting a pot hole with one wheel. The only reason the OE put them on Ford trucks was as a bandaid to stop the death wobble which it never did stop. I could see them being used off road as well to stop the rockets from effecting the steering but only thing that these shocks will do as they are oil charged is just slow the movement of the steering. The flip side is you also slow normal turning down on your steering as well. Thats why I have never been able to figure out the actual reason for them being developed and the proper use of them in the first place as they are used in various capacities that may or may not help.
"Old Blue" - '56 Fairlane Town Sedan - 292-4V, Ford-O-Matic transmission, 3.22:1
'63 Belair 2dr sdn - 283-4V, Powerglide transmission, 4.56:1 '78 Cougar XR7 - 351-2V, FMX transmission, 2.75:1 9inch "Bruno" - '82 F150 Flareside - 302-2V, C6 transmission, 2.75:1 9inch, 31x10.50-15 BFG KO2 |
well there is a little geometry involved, consider this. you are running down the highway spinning four gyroscopes. the rotating mass of each corner. Everything in the assembly is part of this gyroscope. many times we change wheel and tire size and do not consider this gyroscopic effect. wider wheels or wheels with a different offset can greatly affect the driving of the vehicle. some times we ignore irritations because we like how it looks. newer cars/trucks have gone the other way by moving the rotating assembly wider and reducing the offset depth giving the wheels a more flat or flush look vs the deep set wheels of the past. they sure do drive better. coincidence? having a steering damper was very often used as a means of controlling or helping to control the increases in leverage that larger wheels and wider wheels gained and therefore taking leverage from the driver. I'm not sure that it extends the life of the steering components beyond reducing travel or how many times you go back and forth trying to catch or push the wheel. the biggest difference I found on mine was when I went from 33/12.5/15 down to 32/11.5/15. I was amazed how such a small change increased the road manners of the truck.
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