"Cam's Ol' Blue"- 1986 F-150 Base Ex-State of Oregon

[Rembrant]

Yes you can replace just the shifter collar, or at least you can on the 3-on-the-tree column. I had mine apart several times, right down to each individual item. Non tilt. I always assumed that the automatic column was basically the same thing.

[1986F150Six]

thefraze_1020 wrote

Do you guys know if the collar that the shifter is mounted into is removable? Or would I have to replace the whole steering column?
The PO for some reason removed the pin holding in the shifter, drilled it out and put a bolt in there instead. My shifter is very sloppy, so I am thinking the best thing to do is replace the whole collar and shifter assembly.

Can someone tell me how this would be done?
The part in question is circled:

Would any of these do?

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=E2TZ-7228-B&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=Ford+F150+automatic+shift+collar+1986+NOS

[thefraze_1020]

Yes, those are exactly the part I need. Just getting the old one out is the challenge.

[thefraze_1020]

I made a trip to one of the local wrecking yards today, and found a very highly-optioned 1986 F-150 there. So, I pulled the tach cluster, AM/FM/Cassette electronic radio, digital clock, and the burlwood radio bezel with the holes for the clock.

After coming home, I attempted to install the radio and tach cluster in my truck. For the cluster, I swapped in my gauges and my non-trip speedo. I knew all of those worked, so I didn't want to take a chance. After putting all that back together, I fired up the truck, and all of my gauges still work, but the tach has nothing. Can anyone steer me in the right direction why it is not working? Keep in mind, my truck has the 4.9L /300 I6.

[thefraze_1020]

Also, I plugged in the radio, mounted it in the dash, and I have nothing. No display, no sound. I checked the fuse, it's good. I checked the power wires to the radio, they are hot when they are supposed to be. If it is relevant, I found a few weeks ago my aftermarket radio that was in there before just randomly quit working. No power on that either. Something fishy is going on I think....

[ArdWrknTrk]

Are you using the flex circuit that came on the junkyard cluster?

Also, for a six cylinder I believe there is one wire they needs to be grounded (or un-grounded?) for the tach to read correctly.

[thefraze_1020]

Flex circuit? Are you referring to the red ribbon circuit on the back of the cluster? If so, yes I am, so there is power going to the tach terminal posts.

The back of the tach has four posts. How many of them, and which ones do I need to tighten nuts on?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Not surprisingly Gary has a primer:  http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/tachometers.html

So at the risk of not describing every detail I'll leave the link.
My '87 cluster differs in some ways because the gauges work differently.

[FuzzFace2]

I thought that wire was out by the ICM on the fender well?
I could be wrong as when I added a tach to my truck, also a 300 six, it worked so did not have to go digging.

As for the radio where were you checking for power? At the end of the plug that the radio wires plug in to or somewhere else?
Now a WAG are you sure the junk yard radio even works? Maybe that was the last straw, radio stop working, and why the truck was scrapped?

A few wires, speaker or 2 and a battery and you can bench test it.
That is what I did to my Ebay radio did not even use the ant. and got a few stations.

Now on the clock, depending on the year of the truck the clock came from and the year it is going into you may have to
"rewire" to get it to work. IIRC there were 3 different ways & wire colors over the years but if I could do it I am sure others can also do it.
BTW bench test the clock also.
Dave ----

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, the wire to be grounded is out on the fender liner.  And it is grounded by the engine harness, the one that has the ignition, oil pressure, and coolant temp wires in it.

And I agree about the radio.  It may not have been working.  I'd bench test it and the clock.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ok, I see my problem here, and I apologize for the bad information, Cameron.  



It must be that I've seen the post on the back that says (GND-8) on clusters before, and not being too concious that an I-6 (300) has a different engine harness.

If the I-6 doesn't have the bk-lg and dg-y wires, where does it get its tach signal from?

[Gary Lewis]

Both engines, meaning the six cylinder engines and V8 engines, get the tach signal via the DG/Y wire.  But only the V8's have the Bk/LG wire back to the tach that tells it it is an 8.

What I'm not clear on is just exactly what part of that page is the "engine harness".  May have to do some looking.....

[Gary Lewis]

I need to say that differently.  All of the cab harnii have the Bk/LG wire to the tach.  But the V8's don't put a ground on it.  

[ArdWrknTrk]

I asked that question because of the EVTM page in your tutorial where both of those wires were labeled V-8 only.



It is not hard to identify the connectors.
Then you know exactly where the harness breaks are.

[ArdWrknTrk]

So, I guess the illustration in your tutorial is mislabeled.
Lol, not the only ooops in an EVTM.

Leave it to me and my pedantic, literal observations to find that.   

[Gary Lewis]

You found an error in the 1986 EVTM.  

I've now changed the page on Tach's to show the 1985 EVTM's page, and have crossed out and indicated that the 1986 EVTM is wrong there.  But want to leave the error so we could see it.

Here are the two side by side, and it is obvious:

[ArdWrknTrk]

Certainly YOU found it, Gary.
I just pointed it out...


This is a trait that many people hate about me.
It's not like I'm trying to rub anyone's nose in it.
I just have a keen sense of the incongruous.

I'm "special", and that's not always bad.

[Gary Lewis]

I think "special" is good.  

And, we are gradually getting not only the most documentation but the most correct documentation.

[thefraze_1020]

Is it possible that there is a bad connection from the gauge terminal posts through the nuts to the printed circuit on the back of the cluster?

Also, should I leave off the nut for the post that says "8"?

By ignition module, I'm assuming you guys are talking about the TFI mounted to the distributor. It appears that it has been replaced at one point with a Standard Ignition part, but looks just like an OEM part.

From the TFI to the coil all the way to the firewall, I do not see any wires damaged or cut.

[thefraze_1020]

And as for that page from the 1986 EVTM, my truck is an EEC-IV, not a Duraspark. Does that make any difference?