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Hello,
Firstly, I'd like to say just how lucky, and fortunate I am to have discovered this website. My obsession with the bullnose F150 is very strong, and I couldn't tell you how many hours were spent looking for information that was all here on the site. I'm not a very knowledgeable person when it comes to trucks, all I know is that there's something about a 7th generation F150 that makes me want to change that aspect of my life. I own a red 1986 F150 shortbed base model. She is in very rough shape, but that hasn't discouraged me from giving up on her. She is a 4 speed manual, with the fourth being OD. I believe the transmission is the T18. The engine is the 4.9 with the 1bbl carter feedback carb, and even though it's hard for her to get above 55mph, I'm seeing well over 20mpg on the highway. She has only one gas tank, and even with gas being over $3.50 in some places, it never costs me more than 30 to fill her up which makes me think that something is wrong, and I wouldn't be surprised, considering the age. I've owned this truck for over a year and a half now, and all she's really done is sat, the worst part is she had a jasper engine put into her last year in the fall, and all it gets is the occasional start up. Of all the times I've been a naive fool in my life, that situation definitely takes the cake, especially when you consider the nature of neglected 30+ year old truck, or any other old car, and the costs associated with restoring them. It was my first time with a mechanic, and let's just say, I learned the hard way. I take full responsibility for it nonetheless. My main goal is turn turn her into a reliable truck, with a little bit more umph so I can safely get onto the highway. I'm tired of lifting the hood, and looking at the ugly carb, and the mess of wires that comes with it. Any suggestions on what a good carb would be that works well with the 4.9 and a good exhaust option to go with it. It doesn't legally need any cats, or a muffler, but it currently has both two cats and a muffler. it's also worthy to note that I'd still like to maintain some degree of fuel efficiency if at all possible. I'm currently in the process of restoring the interior, and that's where attention to detail will not be spared. I have to cut out the rust that exists on both sides of the cab floor parallel to the doors. I have the repair panels that fit perfectly, I just have yet to weld them. I'm a welder by trade, so that part isn't an issue. After that part is finished, my next move is to put a new coat of paint over the floor, and cover it with sound proofing material, and carpet, and to install a new door sills. The truck is completely gutted too except for a mess of wires, and the instrument panel that sits on the steering column. The next step is to repair all the old vinyl trim, and dash assembly. I found a youtube video on vinyl restoration that looked promising, I just have yet to follow through, like so many other projects. other than the interior, the other big things are using por15 on the frame (unless anyone knows of something better) and replacing all the worn parts on the chassis. and other much needed parts under the hood. I have access to all the tools, and equipment I need to get the job done, and I'll post pictures of the progress I make. I would be very greatful for any input and advice you would be willing to share through your own experiences and knowledge acquired. Any time given to my post is greatly treasured, unless you tell me to sell my truck. Me and her have far to much in common to part ways. Thank you. |
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Welcome to the forum! I love the enthusiasm 🙂
There are a few of us here who are fans of the straight six, and can help with tuning. David (member name 1986F150Six) has the gas mileage recipe down to an art. If legal in your area, you should consider replacing the feedback system with durasparkII. With your engine and gearing you should definitely be able to go much faster than 55mph! Your transmission is not a T18 if it has overdrive. It will be one of three models of Tremec 4 speeds. There is a good page on them here: http://www.f150hub.com/trans/t170-smod-srod-tod.html Being a short bed with a single midship tank, it has a capacity of 16 gallons, if that helps. I hope to see a thread about your project, and again, welcome!
SHORT BED 4-DOOR DIESEL: 1986 F350 4x4 under construction-- 7.3 IDIT ZF5+GVOD
STRAIGHT SIX 4X4: 1981 F150 2wd to 4x4-- 300 I6 close ratio diesel T19, hydroboost brakes, Saginaw steering BIG F: 1995 F-Superduty under construction— converting to 6.9L IDI diesel ZF5+DNE2 |
In reply to this post by eternaltruck
Welcome!! I agree the Duraspark II will work well. I have an 84 with the 4.9 that I'm going to switch to the DS2. I have gotten the parts in and hope to convert it before to long. I have already replaced the Carter feedback with non-feedback. Some people go with 4 barrel and do performance stuff but sounds like you want to keep it simple as I do, just want her running good. The 4.9 with a 1 barrel is solid and will run great. As with mine if not all of the EEC IV components are working right, it will never run right and if it's to far gone it will be a nightmare to try to get it all back right. The duraspark II I think will be the way to go at least that what planing to do.
Kevin 84 F-150 300 i6 Manual 3 speed overdrive 2.47 rear end
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In reply to this post by eternaltruck
Yes, welcome!
I agree with what the guys have said. The 4.9L is a really solid engine, and I think you'll really enjoy the truck when you get done. David/1986F150Six cruised here (Tulsa area) from Alabama and back at 70+ MPH on the interstate with ease with basically the same truck as yours. And, I agree on the DS-II conversion. With a feedback carb you should have a computer (EEC) under the dash. It controls many things, as you can see here: Electrical/EVTM/1986 EVTM/Electronic Engine Controls. But the beauty is that Ford installed that system somewhat standalone. By that I mean that its various sending units and wiring is separate from the rest of the truck. So you can convert the ignition to DS-II and remove the computer and its associated wiring. Why would you do that? My bet is that some of the systems that the computer controls or which provide input to the computer are not working right. When that happens the computer goes into limp-home mode and, among other things, locks the ignition timing down. In other words, with no advance, either mechanical or vacuum, the engine has very little power - just enough for you to get home, albeit not very fast. But with the DS-II conversion you'll get full ignition advance and regain the power and fuel economy. Where are you located? I ask for two reasons. First, we have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Members Map) and I could add you to that. Second, because you may be close to another forum member and s/he might be willing to help you. Welcome!
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Welcome!
Dane
1986 F250HD SC XLT Lariat 4x4 460 C6-Sold 1992 Bronco XLT 4x4 351W E4OD 1998 GMC Sierra SLE K1500 350 4L60E Arizona |
In reply to this post by eternaltruck
Greetings! You'll like it here;).
1994 F150 4x2 Flareside. 5.0 w/MAF, 4R70W, stock.
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/ 5spd. Sold. 1980 F150 4X4 Flareside. 300i6 w/ 5spd. Sold in 2021. 1980 F100 4X2 Flareside. 351w/2bbl w/NP435. Sold in 1995 |
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Gentleman, First, and foremost. Thank you for all the knowledge, and the time taken to provide it, as well as the warm welcome! greatly appreciated!! I'm glad to have found people who can appreciate the bullnose. I currently reside in the central valley of California, but will be leaving before my registration expires next year in June(Wife is in the Navy). I truly cannot say enough how vital this website is to anyone who owns a 7th gen, The knowledge contained in this website, combined with enthusiastic knowledgeable individuals such as yourselves, has personally provided me with a powerful tool in my arsenal. I don't know how this website has managed to elude me for so long, but all that matters is that I found it. I could ramble all day about how much I love my pickup, and how much more I love her after finding this site, but Joe Diffie could do it in three minutes and thirty-seven seconds, so I'll just use him to paint the picture. I'm sold on the advice stated, and Gary, I don't think you'd have any regrets on that bet because that is also an issue that I'm currently having with my truck. Every time I go to start her up lately, the engine idles so poorly, that it causes my truck to shake, and usually turn off. sometimes, I tap the gas, while parked, and it will go from a poor idle to a maintained fast idle. I just took her on the highway today, and she did decent though. I rebuilt the carb to exact specifications, and I've also replaced the vacuum lines, and it did nothing. On a side note, I'm wondering if this issue is also causing the dieseling issue my truck has been having. I thought that a new engine would fix the issue, and it's been raising concern for the issue to still continue because I'm worried that the end result if allowed to continue could cause damage. Thank you all for your help, and Gary, just gotta say... that's some scary good insight based on the limited information given to you, because I was literally about to shed some light on that situation. |
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I'm glad the site and the guys on the forum are helping. That's why it and we are here.
But don't go to the bank on my advice. The first thing I'd do is to put a timing light on the engine and see if the advance changes when you rev it up. If it doesn't I may well be right. But you do need to check.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Administrator
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In reply to this post by eternaltruck
Where is the truck registered? California is very strict when it comes to emissions testing and having all of the original equipment intact. However if the truck is registered somewhere else then you may have more freedom to convert it to the pre-computer carb and distributor.
If the engine is dieseling, that is a symptom of over advanced ignition timing. Too much advance will also result in rough idle. So as Gary said, check it with a timing light before doing anything else. Although the feedback system is famous for having problems, try timing it correctly first and see what it does.
SHORT BED 4-DOOR DIESEL: 1986 F350 4x4 under construction-- 7.3 IDIT ZF5+GVOD
STRAIGHT SIX 4X4: 1981 F150 2wd to 4x4-- 300 I6 close ratio diesel T19, hydroboost brakes, Saginaw steering BIG F: 1995 F-Superduty under construction— converting to 6.9L IDI diesel ZF5+DNE2 |
Administrator
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Welcome to the forum, eternal truck!
You mentioned having replaced all the vacuum hoses [plastic, too?]. Make sure the carburetor is properly tightened. Check the vacuum "tree" on the intake manifold below the carburetor. There are unused ports which have rubber caps. There is one which is hidden by all the emissions tubing. It is nearest the engine and points towards the firewall. Being near the exhaust, the heat will dry it and if it cracks [they do!], you will have a vacuum leak and the engine will idle poorly. |
In reply to this post by eternaltruck
Welcome eternaltruck!
You have a passion for the work and you, like many of us, have found a 2nd home. I am not sure how this site stayed under my radar as well but it is certainly my most visited (and respected) site now. My guess is that the EVTM that they have on here (Gary already imbedded the link in his post) will be of great value to you. I sincerely look forward to watching your progress!! This kind of stuff is good therapy too. Seriously.
Jamie Helmick
'85 Bronco 351W HO, C6, 4X4, Full rebuild @ 51k original miles (fire), Edelbrock air gap intake & 600 cfm carb. w/elec. choke. 4" RC lift w/35's. Check the Projects Page if you're interested. |
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Just FYI, this forum only started in August of last year - 2017. So you didn't miss us very long.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by eternaltruck
Hi eternaltruck!
My name is Michelle and my husband and I restore cars for a living. Por15 isn't the best product to use. It doesn't stick to bare metal, so with that, try Rustuleum Rusty Metal primer! That stuff is amazing and lasts! It's pretty inexpensive too, can be bought at Ace Hardware. Rusty Metal primer is designed to go on bare metal! When I get my bullnose, I am going to give it the Rusty Metal primer treatment! I am sold on that product! We have used it on customer's cars and our own cars! It holds up and lasts! Can't wait to see your girl bullnose! 😊 |
I used Kreem in the past on motorcycle fuel tanks. And had very good results.
Some folks recommended POR-15 and I got some and used it recently on another motorcycle fuel tank. I was not happy with it at all. I went by the directions as people said and I should have went with my gut, but I didn't. I'm going to look into the Rust-Oleum product for bare metal, and if I ever do another motorcycle tank it will be Kreem.
Dane
1986 F250HD SC XLT Lariat 4x4 460 C6-Sold 1992 Bronco XLT 4x4 351W E4OD 1998 GMC Sierra SLE K1500 350 4L60E Arizona |
In reply to this post by eternaltruck
Ladies and Gents, Thank you all so much for the knowledge! The wife and I just got finished moving. It was our first move, and it was as poorly executed as it could have possibly been. We thought it would just take a day, so we procrastinated, and it ended up taking the whole weekend up until the early hours of Monday morning. (I just found my laptop charger to put things into perspective) The main work I plan on doing to her to finish up the year is mainly in the cabin. She's pretty well gutted, so the first task is to weld up the floor, and seal it up with a coat of paint. I have sound deadening foam which I plan to down before the carpet. After the floor is good to go, the next big thing is to restore all the vinyl trim, and dash assembly. I'm also on the hunt for vinyl trim pieces that the truck didn't have like the rear corner trim pieces. There's several massive junkyards in the central valley of California, so hopefully I can nab a pair, as well as other trim pieces. The wiring harness inside is a in a big heap, on the floor, and I know It's gonna be a pain to get organized, but I'm sure I'll find a way. My main goal for the interior is to make it as quit, and as insulated as possible. The color scheme I'm going for on the vinyl is saddle tan. I'm thinking about taking the cab off for the welding portion of it. Everyone tells me I'd be way in over my head, and I'm obviously hesitant. I have access to a giant gantry that could yank the cab right off it, and turn it into a one man job(at least in my head) I haven't ever undertaken anything like this... The reason I want to do this is because I want to paint the frame in sections, and replace the bushings for the cab while the frame is exposed. Does this seem like a logical course of action to the more experienced folk out there? Any input it greatly appreciated! Thank you! |
Administrator
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It really isn't that difficult to pull the cab - especially if you have the harness out/off. And if you had it off where you could tilt it up on the back side to weld the floors from the bottom, or at least work under there, it would make things far easier.
On how to make it quiet, my thoughts are here: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Questions-on-door-speaker-sizing-tp16619p16640.html And for painting the vinyl, the SEM color codes are here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/interior-paint.html
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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