new gas tank brands - which is best?

[delco1946]

Hey All,

I've had ongoing fuel issues and think i might just have my tanks replaced. I've seen Spectra mentioned on here, but a quick search of AutoZone's website also mentions a Dorman brand. Dorman is more expensive, and generally you get what you pay for so i'd assume Dorman is better, but curious what other's experience has been? Are their other brands to consider?

I'm more interested in restoration/quality parts versus the cheapest thing that will tide me over for a couple years, so i'd love to hear what brands have impressed.

[kramttocs]

I'd be surprised if they aren't all the same, just rebranded. I'd go with a Spectra unless you wanted to see if someone was custom making them (and willing to pay for it).

Also interested to hear if anyone has done a hands on comparison.

[delco1946]

Well part of the reason I asked is that the dorman brand appeared to have a dark exterior, making me believe that it’s been coated from the factory for added protection whereas the spectra brand does not seem to have that, Based on pictures and threads on the side.

[kramttocs]

Ah, didn't realize the photos showed a potential difference.
We've used red kote on rusty tractor tanks so haven't ever used a sealer like that (I see POR15 makes one also) on a new tank but might be worth some research to see if it would add significant longevity.

[delco1946]

Rock Auto seems to be substantially cheaper with 3 brands including one called "ultra-power" which is the most expensive, but still reasonable. Looks nicer/sturdier per the pics.

I have 2 tanks, and per the site documentation, for a 133" wheelbase from 1981, both are 19 gallons, so I assume one is "midship/side mount" and the other is "behind rear axle". Seems obvious but am I neglecting anything else before I buy? I've heard Rock Auto is difficult with returns....

Anything else I should buy at the same time to replace while the tanks are being replaced?

Thank you!

[JohnC]

I went to my local parts store to get my tanks.  If there was any issues, there was no concerns about shipping.  I/O'riley's did get the correct ones the first time.  I had searched for the better tank and they all seemed to be the same.

[RenoHuskerDu]

If you can consider moving your spare tire up into the bed, then you can run a Spectra 36 gallon deep rear tank and throw away both the front tank and the problematic tank switching system. That also lets you run a shorty dual exhaust with side dumps, and "listen to the music" while you drive. Then use the tank switch on the dash as an ignition kill that only you know about. We extend the fuel pickup down into the deeper tank with light weight RC fuel hose. As for the gauge, we do not extend that because there are too many stories of it breaking, me included. We bend the arm so it reads Full until 3/4 then hits Empty at 1/4. The trip odometer becomes your good buddy.

Some Dorman parts are chinesium junk, such as the 4.6 v8 replacement intake manifold with its sheet metal screw attachments, instead of proper threaded machine screw inserts into the plastic. In my world of Ford diesels I've learned to avoid Dorman. I did buy one of their replacement Super Duty window crank handles and it works is all I'll say.

But I don't know about Dorman tanks. Spectras were made in Canada until recently, but now they say only North America, which might mean NAFTA. Which could be Chile or Antarctica now for all I know or care...

FYI

[JohnC]

I filled my tank until it was at the bottom of the pickup tube, then I added two gallons of fuel, then I adjusted the float arm until the gauge read empty.  I know that when the gauge reads empty, I have maybe 20 miles to go.  I did this with the bed off the truck.  I do not think it could be done as well with the bed on.

[mat in tn]

be practical. when you are replacing any tank(s) replace the fill hoses also. you may also look for any options for tank assembly to get the sender units too. one usually lasts about as long as the other .

[Lima Delta]

I wished I had taken the time to replace the filler neck/hose assemblies when I replaced my tanks.
They looked alright when I replaced the tanks, and finding parts was a pain, so I left them.
Fast forward five or six years and the tanks are in fine shape but the filler assemblies leak if the tanks are more than 3/4 full and I'm on a grade.

[FuzzFace2]

mat in tn wrote

be practical. when you are replacing any tank(s) replace the fill hoses also. you may also look for any options for tank assembly to get the sender units too. one usually lasts about as long as the other .

When I was putting my truck back together I did replace the 2 sending units.
As you would know a few months after the truck was on the road the rear tank sender stop working.
The new float sunk so I used the old sender float and been good for 2 years now.

Lima Delta wrote

I wished I had taken the time to replace the filler neck/hose assemblies when I replaced my tanks.
They looked alright when I replaced the tanks, and finding parts was a pain, so I left them.
Fast forward five or six years and the tanks are in fine shape but the filler assemblies leak if the tanks are more than 3/4 full and I'm on a grade.

I did not replace my fill hoses but then again they dont make the rear one for my truck as it never came with a rear tank.
As you would know it that is the one the leaks when filing
Some day I will look into fixing it.
Dave ----

[Rembrant]

I've installed new Spectra tanks and Spectra sending units in two Bullnoses, and they seemed decent. I know Spectra is headquartered in Canada, but I don't know if they still actually make the tanks here or not. The one I bought in 2018 had a Made In Canada sticker on it.

[Lima Delta]

For what it's worth, I bought a Spectra Premium oil pan not long ago which I also think is decently made.

I'm always a little skeptical about the factory paint on parts like this. Not that there any obvious defects, but for on something which will be exposed to some pretty harsh conditions it will take a good coating to last.

[RenoHuskerDu]

FuzzFace2 wrote

I did not replace my fill hoses but then again they dont make the rear one for my truck as it never came with a rear tank.
As you would know it that is the one the leaks when filing
Some day I will look into fixing it.
Dave ----

We have the beds off several pickups right now. I was looking at them pondering how to resolve the fill hose issue on Spartacus, a 97 Aeronose that is getting a Bullnose front clip (thread is here somewhere). It looks like you'd have to bend the top of the frame rail down, or the bed up, to get enough clearance to stop pinching that rear tank fill hose. The 350 frame is pretty stout so bending the bed makes more sense. Maybe a 150 frame would be easier to mod.

What we've done on flatbeds is put the filler right on the top of the deck.

fyi

[mat in tn]

i have not had that issue but then i have not restored flat beds

[delco1946]

Thinking about all the other do-dads i'll need for new tanks. Do the vents typically go bad? Rock Auto only has one available, and doesn't specify what it fits/years, etc so that makes me think one size fits all types and sizes of tanks (?). (part # E7DZ9B593A, J5360058)

The part number seems to match up with what is under the documentation.

[FuzzFace2]

RenoHuskerDu wrote

FuzzFace2 wrote

I did not replace my fill hoses but then again they dont make the rear one for my truck as it never came with a rear tank.
As you would know it that is the one the leaks when filing
Some day I will look into fixing it.
Dave ----

We have the beds off several pickups right now. I was looking at them pondering how to resolve the fill hose issue on Spartacus, a 97 Aeronose that is getting a Bullnose front clip (thread is here somewhere). It looks like you'd have to bend the top of the frame rail down, or the bed up, to get enough clearance to stop pinching that rear tank fill hose. The 350 frame is pretty stout so bending the bed makes more sense. Maybe a 150 frame would be easier to mod.

What we've done on flatbeds is put the filler right on the top of the deck.

fyi

With the 87 you should not have the fill issue we have on the 80 - 86 trucks as the fix for them is to use the later fill pipe system.

I dont have any issues filling my 2 tanks as when I put them back in I amde sure the inner tubes were installeduld be from the factory.
The rear tank on my flare side was never an option so I used parts from my parts truck rear tank and had to make mods to work and look factory.

delco1946 wrote

Thinking about all the other do-dads i'll need for new tanks. Do the vents typically go bad? Rock Auto only has one available, and doesn't specify what it fits/years, etc so that makes me think one size fits all types and sizes of tanks (?). (part # E7DZ9B593A, J5360058)

I believe that roll over valve isthe same on all trucks.
The reason I replaced mine (2) was with age.
1 had the nipple broken and felt if 1 (of 3 I could use) was the others may break.
Also the rubber seal was loose so that was replaced on both tanks.

IIRC I got the valves & seals from LMC.
I used a little grease to get the valve in the rubber seal that was put in the tank first IIRC.
Dave ----