fuel line question 300 six cylinder

[Amasis7]

I have an 82 F 100 300 6 with a Carter one barrel carb. The metal line from the fuel pump to the carb has a split in it. What is that metal line called and where might I get a replacement for it? Thanks!

[Gary Lewis]

I hope I don't run you off, but you may have missed the email that Jim sent you.  Basically it asked you to go the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then post an introduction there in that folder.

We do that because we hold everyone to our guidelines, so want you to have read them.  And since they are posted in that folder we ask you to go there for your first post.

Don't worry, many people miss that first step.  But we won't hold that against you.  So once you've done that come back here and we will try to answer your question.

[Amasis7]

I believe that I have completed those steps.

[Gary Lewis]

I assume you've read the guidelines, and while I don't see an introduction from you I'll say you are "in".

Many people would use a tubing cutter and cut the split section out of the line, slip fuel hose on, and clamp it.  It think that would work pretty well and since you are only talking about 5 - 6 psi it shouldn't leak.

But if you want to replace the line I'll search for the part number of the line.  

[Gary Lewis]

Well, I didn't get very far.  I found one reference to the tube being base # of 9B273 so looked it up in the catalog and found this: "9B273 TUBE ASSY. (FUEL PUMP TO FUEL FILTER)—cut to length from 9291".  And 9291 is bulk metal tubing.  So apparently the mechanic was supposed to make a new tube out of a length of tubing, put the ends on, flare it, and bend it to fit.

Which is why most people use fuel hose to either patch their metal line, or put barbed fittings in and replace the whole thing with fuel line and clamps.

[mat in tn]

this is a very common thing with hard fuel lines. we often make new lines and 5/16" tubing and inverted flare nuts are usually available at parts stores. hose is the simplest fix but often we want something a little more durable and bespoke.

[ratdude747]

On my 1984 I elected to replace the hard line and metal fuel filter for rubber 5/16" fuel hose and a lawn-tractor plastic fuel filter. Figured the rubber would help reduce vapor lock and I was tired of metal fuel filters leaking all the time.

On the carb side, you'll want a straight 5/16 x 1/8NPT brass barb fitting. On the pump side, they make nipples that fit flared hookups, which is what I used:

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/dorman/dorman-fuel-line-adapter/dor0/785402d?q=5%2F16+barb&pos=8

I then ran the hose up, around the front of the valve cover (not over the top), and around to the filter and then to the carb.

Do NOT use Mr. Gasket glass fuel filters. I had one originally but the glass cracked a few months later and leaked gas everywhere. Lawn tractor ones (the big ones with 5/16" capability) work fine, plus they're clear so you can still see what is and isn't being filtered out of the fuel. Been running this setup since at least 4.5 years ago. Other than the cracked glass, zero issues.

[Danny G]

mat in tn wrote

this is a very common thing with hard fuel lines. we often make new lines and 5/16" tubing and inverted flare nuts are usually available at parts stores. hose is the simplest fix but often we want something a little more durable and bespoke.

That's what I did. I have some pictures of the process here in the project section.

It's going to be part way down the page but talks about correction factor when making your own tube.

Other than than I'll keep a look out as I go through my parts I may have that tube laying aroundfrom when I took it off.

[thelastkeg]

I'm kind of ashamed to admit that I've always used fuel hose to patch metal lines between the engine-mounted fuel pumps and carbs on my older vehicles.  So far I haven't had to replace lines between the tank and fuel pump, but I wouldn't run fuel hose in that scenario.  To date I haven't had any issues with the splices.  

[viven44]

I am also ashamed to admit that I have only ran a rubber hose directly on the hard line with a worm gear clamp.... maybe a habit I acquired from the past trucks I had seen it done on.. Its on my to-do list to add a "bead" on the hard line but its difficult to do on a stainless line. I also don't want to just add a compression fitting with a barb because how is that different than the compression fitting I already have (with the worm gear clamp).

I've been "OK" with this for low pressure (<7PSI) systems.. but no way I would do that on fuel injected systems.

[1986F150Six]

Obviously, there are several ways to repair or replace the fuel line from the fuel pump to the carburetor inlet, as has been discussed. Just be careful with the 300/4.9L engine [my favorite!] in that any leakage near the carburetor is directly above the exhaust manifold.

[Danny G]

I have found both fuel tubes. They were bouncing around in a box. I painted both at one point. You are welcome to have it if you need it, should fit in a flat rate box.

[Gary Lewis]

That's the Bullnose Forum spirit!  Thank you, Danny!

[Amasis7]

Many thanks to everyone!

[Danny G]

Did you still need a tube?