door panel refurbishing

[Gabes86]

I've had these door panels in my parts stash for over 5 years, and I think it's time to fix them up. They're in really good shape, but have the typical chalky look on the tops. I've done some reading up on this and know it will need sanding down. I also need to paint these grey to match the dash. Is it advisable to remove the chrome trim, or just tape it off?

For those that have done this what are the steps for the prep before paint?
here is what I'm working with

[Danny G]

Sand them, clean them, clean them again.... Clean them one more time. Use an adhesion promoter, apply SEM texture coat, adhesion promoter, paint, paint again as necessary do thin coats, then two coats of matte clear.

[Danny G]

I have my refurb posted in my build thread Hook em Up Loose here

http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/#nabble-td75797i20|a76053
I'm actually getting ready to do this again for the new pieces I found in the junk yard

[Dorsai]

I'll second the SEM system - I did some interior pieces (seat belt retractor covers, kick panels) last year, and they're still looking great.  Follow the directions carefully and I'm sure yours will come out just as well.

[CliftonK]

I have always heard a kiss of heat from a heat gun will bring the oils back to the top and make them look good again.  Haven't had any that needed it yet so I haven't tried is.  Has anyone done this technique?

[Danny G]

My mindset is it had plenty of heat in the cab lol. Anything more may melt them

[grumpin]

I did it on a Kawasaki KLR 650 motorcycle.

It does work, be very careful, you need just enough heat.

In the long run I would go with paint, I don’t think it looked as good as paint would.

Can’t hurt to try I reckon!

[Danny G]

Dorsai wrote

I'll second the SEM system - I did some interior pieces (seat belt retractor covers, kick panels) last year, and they're still looking great.  Follow the directions carefully and I'm sure yours will come out just as well.

I used sem texture but color bond for everything else with good results.

Thought of something else ... Humidity. Humidity will cause issues especially with the clear coat because the mist is so fine it messes that up and you'll get weird clumping etc


Also when your done spraying each time turn the can upside down and spray to clear the nozzle.

[grumpin]

TheScatch wrote

My mindset is it had plenty of heat in the cab lol. Anything more may melt them

No, it takes more heat than that!

[Ford F834]

I’ve done thorough cleaning, adhesion promoter, and vinyl paint and found the finish to be very durable. I’ve not tried clear coats over the color, but mine did just fine without it. If it were me I would remove the chrome rings but it’s really your preference. The retaining prongs are pretty strong.

[Gabes86]

It seems like sem it the way to go. For sanding, what grit would you go with?

Scratch, that truck you pulled your interior parts from is the same color as the doors I just pulled at my local yard.

[CliftonK]

My line of thinking wasn't to forego paint, but to refurbish the base material instead of removing it.

[Danny G]

As fine as you can, your just knocking off the chalk. I think I was using like 1000g.

The sem texture is not the same as the original but can be feathered in a bit. I had to do this on my kick panels. If you look at the picture of my glove box lock you will get a good idea of the texture it makes.

[Gabes86]

I was looking at sem's website last night, looks like they don't sell there stuff directly. I looked on amazon and it seems they sell it there.  Do you guys typically buy this online or do you find it locally?

is this what is needed?

sem texture
adhesion promoter
color bond paint

The dash in my truck is grey, does anyone know what ford calls it, or what the sem part number is?

I appreciate all the help so far, it is amazing how much knowledge is gathered here!!  

[Ford F834]

You can order it online, but watch the shipping tends to be outrageous because of hazardous materials fees.

If you have the grey interior, I would seriously consider using the Duplicolor vinyl and fabric paint. It’s like 8 or 9 bucks a can at your local car parts store, and their charcoal grey is an exact match for the bullnose grey interior. I freshened up some A pillar trim with it and you couldn’t tell the difference between the painted face and the unpainted backs. They sell Duplicolor adhesion promoter there also.

As far as whether it is “as good” as SEM, I’m just going to say it is “also good...” I used Black Duplicolor vinyl paint in my 1981 F150 and it has held up on the dash in spite of grandkids muddy feet constantly kicking it and excited puppy claws hopping around in the cab. After a good wipe down it looks about like it did after I painted it. Good enough for me... but I will note that the dash is the hard brittle plastic, and I used the SEM Sand-Free to prep that instead of the Duplicolor adhesion promoter. Both paints are only as good as your prep, but if you want actual SEM call automotive paint stores in your area and see if they carry the rattle cans. I found a store in northern Arizona that did, and bought the Napa Red (very close to 84-86 Canyon Red) and the Sand-Free prep for less than online because of the shipping charges.

[Gary Lewis]

I think you are better off going with Jonathan's recommendation of the Duplicolor than going with SEM.  I say that because all matching SEM paints have to be mixed.  Said another way, no one has them in stock.  That's explained on the page at Documentation/Specifications/Interior Paint.

So if the Duplicolor is a good match, then go with it.

[Ford F834]

Some of the mustang restoration places carry already mixed Ford colors, but it’s pricey and in and out of stock. Try one can first, but I think you will be pleased with Duplicolor charcoal grey, HVP111. The Duplicolor also seems to have good opacity which helps when you are dealing with a color change.

[Gabes86]

I have used duplicolor on my dash pad with good results, I didn't use adhesion promoter just a good cleaning.  I think I will go that way instead as it will be readily avaliable.

[FuzzFace2]

As said it is in the prep!
Before doing anything to any panels be it inside the truck or outside wash it good, you don't want to sand any oil or grease into the panel you will be working on.

All my products are SEM other than their panel wash I just use liquid dish soap, Dawn.

For sanding to get the chalk off 1000 is to fine in my book but also depends on how bad the chalk is.
I started with 36 grit then to 80 grit and think final was 120 grit. You want the get rid of all the chalk other wise what ever you put on top of that chalk will flake off when hit, ask how I know  Then again it is my cooler I take for lunch that hits the panel when driving.

The SEM texture I got would not spray, both cans, so I just left the sand marks on the door panels as I want to replace them down the road just wanted them to look good for now. Someone I think said you can use a roll on bed liner to get the texture but did not find this till after the panels were painted and put on the truck.

As for color matching if you are painting all the panels then it will not matter if it is a match, just close in color, as they will all match when done. The red I used is a little brighter than the factory red but I did all panels so they match
I did not use clear on my truck but did on a car project I an working on.
I was told it adds UV protection and if you get it in a semi gloss it will cut down on reflection, more so off the dash pad that I have issues now with not doing the semi gloss clear.

Hope that helps others looking to deal with the chalk panels.
The panels I want to replace down the road.


Dave ----

[Gary Lewis]

I agree with Dave.  I used something like 36 grit wet-or-dry paper and kept it wet and rinsed often.  Otherwise the paper clogged quickly.