I'm going to be installing a new vacuum brake booster, and master cylinder in the Cobra, are there any worthwhile upgrades, or should I just replace what's there with original equipment..
Mike
'85 Ford Cobra Econoline E350 7.5L carbureted thing of beauty |
After battling poor pedal response on our Bullnose for months, and coming to a stalemate, I resolved that next time it's brake component time, I'll upgrade to all Bricky components and toss that center proportioning valve hoohaw out the window.
You can buy it from Carolina Classics or that Bronco Graveyard guy. But after renewing all components on our Bullnose, the Bricky still has better brakes. Not sure how this helps with your E-van, but there it is.
Reno in Central Texas, 86 F250 XLT Lariat eclb 2wd 6.9, plus 2 Bricknoses, 1 Aeronose that's getting a Bullnose front clip, and parts trucks. Busy lads, father and sons wrenchers.
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I agree that the later aluminum/plastic master cylinder is a good upgrade.
I don't know about replacing the proportioning valve though. I went with the later master and hydroboost and the brakes are excellent. So I don't think the proportioning valve is an issue as it is still there.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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This post was updated on .
In reply to this post by RenoHuskerDu
Mind, that a bricknose has the RABS module on the frame rail that needs to be bled, so I don't think there are any less parts or complexity.
And a Bullnose doesn't have a tone ring or any of the other parts RABS* needs to work. Theoretically there's no physical advantage in swapping reservoirs. Ratios don't change. Vacuum assist doesn't change. (Note that 250/350 trucks not only have bigger brakes, they have a booster with more area and a larger master cylinder bore) All these ratios have to work together. In the past, later master cylinders (with the all important residual pressure check valve!) have been available from U-Techcenter. I think Hydroboost would be a worthwhile upgrade but have never tried it back to back with a vacuum boost system in the same vehicle, like Gary. That's way more involved. You already have a Saginaw pump but you need to relocate the brake pedal actuator and replumb the new booster. And you need the later MC.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
Replacing the rubber hoses with braided made a huge difference on my trucks.
I am starting to consider front rotor replacement as I have some vibration starting under braking in my 150. It makes me wonder if there are any sensible upgrades for the rotors, calipers and brake pads.
1985.5 F-150 XL Explorer standard cab 5.0 EFI AOD 4x4
Daily Driver. We call her Eunice the Ute. 1982 Bronco XLT Lariat 351W AOD 4x4 Code name Esperanza, or Espy to her friends. Please see my Project thread for the blow by blow. 1984 F-350 XL Centurion crew cab 460 T19 4x4 "Eylza Dual-little" |
In reply to this post by 26ftcobraBBF
For me depending on if my brakes work as good as they did with my new engine build as it did with my stock engine I may be upgrading to hydraboost using OE Ford parts that would be bolt in upgrades. The hydraboost will help you apply your brakes harder with less effort.
"Old Blue" - '56 Fairlane Town Sedan - 292-4V, Ford-O-Matic transmission, 3.22:1
'63 Belair 2dr sdn - 283-4V, Powerglide transmission, 4.56:1 '78 Cougar XR7 - 351-2V, FMX transmission, 2.75:1 9inch "Bruno" - '82 F150 Flareside - 302-2V, C6 transmission, 2.75:1 9inch, 31x10.50-15 BFG KO2 |
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In reply to this post by Gsmblue
You can get pads with different mu.
Higher letters have a higher coefficient of friction. We see things like F, G H & HH But just like the organic V metallic debate, you will be eating more of your rotors using a more aggressive pad compound. There have been some breakthroughs with compounds lately (trading abrasion and friction for adhesion) but I doubt you're going to find them for our trucks. Reinforced hydraulic lines should never give under the pressures our brake systems are capable of But then nobody goes and changes their brake hoses 5 years from the assembly date required by the DOT either. Braided lines are attractive, and the PTFE liner may resist breakdown longer, but you're still supposed to change them out. Brittle rubber lines with rotten reinforcement fabric are going to bulge and give you a soft pedal. But that should never be the case with a properly maintained and adjusted system.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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I know that after I changed my rear brakes to the 3 1/2" wide shoes Darth's brakes are noticeably stronger, not touchy, just stronger. I had previously installed the booster and MC from the 1990 F250. The RWAL actuator and controller I gave to my Department manager for his 1987 F150.
My best friend had me do a rear disc conversion on his 1995 F350 crew cab DRW with a Power Stroke. His brakes were never real good and while we were emptying my NN House, he had his flat bed trailer on his truck and we were going to go get dinner but were in a time crunch, so rather than shuffle and get his Corvette unblocked, I just told him, you drive, you know the fastest route. He damn near put us both through the windshield at the first corner.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |
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That's like 17% more shoe width than I have.
Twice the tires in the rear and almost 3' of WB. I would still like to get Hydroboost brakes some day. If the truck lasts much longer.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
In reply to this post by 85lebaront2
That's some major braking it sounds like. I wondered what it would take, and what donor vehicle I could look out for you be able to convert the drum to disk on the Cobra. I did a conversion on my '01 Jeep XJ,and absolutely love it.
Mike
'85 Ford Cobra Econoline E350 7.5L carbureted thing of beauty |
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This post was updated on .
Later vans had discs.
There are a couple of years (I believe) that had disc while retaining the old 8 on 6.5" pattern before the vans went to metric lugs. Edit ***1999-2001 E350 with SRW were D-60 while '99-'01 E350 cutaway with DRW are Dana 70. Both had discs with parking drums. The E450's had a driveline brake at the front of the driveshaft.**** Does your motorhome have a D70 rear axle? What ratio and tire size? If you go to a disc rear you're going to remove the residual pressure valve so the pads can retract.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
I've had no luck finding these, are they different for F250vsF150? |
I got mine from broncograveyard i think. If not then LMC
1985.5 F-150 XL Explorer standard cab 5.0 EFI AOD 4x4
Daily Driver. We call her Eunice the Ute. 1982 Bronco XLT Lariat 351W AOD 4x4 Code name Esperanza, or Espy to her friends. Please see my Project thread for the blow by blow. 1984 F-350 XL Centurion crew cab 460 T19 4x4 "Eylza Dual-little" |
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