Upgrades To Big Blue For Overlanding?

[Gary Lewis]

I was actually trying to point just in front of the flange, where I think the slot could go.

[ArdWrknTrk]

So what's the mid piece that houses the wheel?
How can both of those occupy the same space?

[Gary Lewis]

I don't think they occupy the same space.  The one on the firewall (19C590) is the Air Conditioner Recirculating Air Duct Assembly and the one the motor goes in (19A559) is the Air Conditioner Evaporator Core Housing - as shown here after I added them.

[ArdWrknTrk]

So *what is it* with a recessed round hole in it that sits between the blower housing and the plenum?

Just a gasket????
I would think that a gasket would not be stiff enough to keep from being sucked into and rubbing on the fan

[ArdWrknTrk]

Look at the **left part** of 19a586.
You'll see what I mean.

[Gary Lewis]

I have wondered that myself, but have assumed that it is a poorly-drawn gasket.  Will have to check it out when I can.  

[85lebaront2]

If it will help any I can take some measurements on the HVAC from the 1995 parts truck.

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks, Bill.  But I think the key is how the recirculating air duct is shaped and sized, and that piece is probably different on the Bullnose trucks than the 90's.  However, I have several of the pieces in the attic and in a week or so can check them out.

[Gary Lewis]

Well, I'm home.  As some of you know, I've been in Nicaragua for two weeks visiting our daughter, son-in-law, and grandtwins.  But, as of this afternoon I'm home.  And, after getting a few things squared away, I'll be getting back to trucking in a few days.

Toward that end I was very pleased to open the boxes that Mark/Dyn Blin pulled from the 1996 CA-spec F250 w/a 460.  What a treasure trove!  Thanks, Mark.  

Once I get the shop straightened up a bit and get rid of a bunch of parts from Huck, I want to lay out the various harnesses, air boxes, etc that I have and figure out how to put it all together.  But, with the exception of a few air inlet hoses and maybe some spare harnesses from which to extract the right wire colors with which to extend things, I think I have pretty much what is needed to put MAF/SEFI on Big Blue.  

[Dyn Blin]

I'm heartened to see it all arrived intact.  Welcome home!

Now the fun begins for those of us watching the build.

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, I finally got to the shop for a few minutes today.  And here's my first take on what we were discussing with regard to a filter in the HVAC system.

I've added several pics of the underhood plenums here (HVAC/HVAC Systems).  But, the learning is that there is no room available in the plenum for a filter 'tween the fresh air/recirculate door and the squirrel cage.  NADA.

So, I don't see a way of doing it.  I'd thought about something like shown below, but since there is a ~16 degree angle on the one joint, placing a spacer there would cause an alignment problem where the A/C air passes through the firewall.  And, even if that could be gotten around it looks like the filter would be below the fender hanger as well as the hood hinge.  In other words, I don't think it will work.  

[Gary Lewis]

Spent a lot of time today on the spreadsheet for the connections to the EEC-V computer on Big Blue.  As you can see below, I have a column for "Use", and I sorted the file such that the connections I intend to use came to the top, and then "printed" them to show here.

But, in doing so I came up with some questions:

BOO: Do I really need the Brake On/Off signal?  I understand that it is used on the vehicles with an auto tranny to unlock the torque converter's clutch, but on Big Blue with a ZF5, is it needed?

HO2S Numbering & Use: My understanding is that #11 is the right front, #21 is the left front, and #12 is the rear - sometimes called Right Rear.  Correct?  Further, since the rear one is used as an efficiency monitor for the catalytic converter, which I won't have, I can turn it off in the ECU and put my wide-band HO2S there.  Correct?

The pinouts for all EEC-V ECU's are the same.  Right?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Wouldn't you hook BOO to some clutch switch so the engine doesn't rev to maintain speed if you go to shift?
I'm sure you could put some microswitch up at the pedal stop, but have no idea if the circuit is NO or NC.

[Gary Lewis]

Jim - I don't know.  What little I've found on it only says it tells the ECU to unlock the torque converter at anything less than 5% throttle.  Doesn't say it drops the RPM, and I doubt it does that since it isn't drive-by-wire.  The throttle is going to be open X amount, so won't it have to give fuel to match the air?

And if it did drop the RPM that wouldn't mess up the idle speed.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'm not understanding then.

I thought the Brake-On-Off was the switch on the front of the MC that was causing all those fires in the late '90- early '00 models.
This would kick the speed control off.

If not, then I apologize for interjecting.  

[Gary Lewis]

No need for apologies.  I'm wanting all the input I can get.

I'm not sure what the source is for BOO on the later trucks, but Bill's 1996 EVTM shows it as the light green wire from the brake switch.  So for '96 they were just getting the signal from the same circuit our trucks have.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Hmm.

I know that the speed control unit that I pulled from the F-450 for you *appeared* to be a simple throttle positioner cable.

*My* logic would be that if the ECU 'saw' all inputs as nominal and yet the speed decreased while engine rpms increased as the clutch is depressed it would determine something was amiss.

If it had confirmation of a control input it would kick out normally instead of possibly setting a code.

But hey... I'm just an idiot

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, that control as well as the one I pulled off of Huck are the old style, and since they have the right cable to interface with the throttle body, one is going on Big Blue and one on Dad's truck.  That way I can use the horn pad buttons to control the cruise.  But the later cruise, like the one Mark/Dyn Blin got for Bill, is electronic.

As for your logic, that sounds reasonable.  But, I don't know how the ECU is programmed, so don't know if it would work that way.  Perhaps I'll find out when I get deeply into the EEC-V ECU via Core Tuning.

In any event, I really do need a clutch switch, both for the cruise as well as for the starter interlock, so will be adding that to Big Blue.  And, if needed I could then connect it to BOO.

[85lebaront2]

Gentlemen, the BOO referred to on the EEC pinouts is the brake switch on the pedal. The electronic cruise system monitors it to kill the cruise. The hydraulic switch on the MC is a fail safe, it interrupts the power to the magnetic clutch inside the unit. This connects the gear train to the cable pulley. Other than the speed sensor input that is shared with the EEC, there are no electrical connections to the cruise control from the EFI system. Ford's cruise controls, like later GM ones are a stand alone system.

As for the EEC, it monitors the BOO (Brake On Off) switch for the A/T, but it will set a code if it isn't connected and since it is needed for the cruise (either type, vacuum or electronic) it shouldn't be a big deal to tap into it (just like the trailer brakes).

Chrysler cruise controls from 1987 on use the ECM for operation. The older mechanical one does not.

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, if it will set a code w/o BOO then I'll connect it.

But, you said "the speed sensor input that is shared with the EEC".  I was planning to take the output of the device below to the EEC, and use the module that goes in the middle of the speedo cable for the cruise.  No?