The Camano Experience

[kramttocs]

Appreciate those photos. The idea is growing on me. Since what I have works I won't rush out and change it but definitely thinking it over and will see what you do. My only concern would be with a carb and the inline filter + factory return valve (or aftermarket one) it would get a bit crowded and hard to work back there when changing the filter out.

Took some quick recordings of the XS Torque starter.
The first one is cold and not giving it the single pump it needs as I wanted to hear just the cranking sound. You can hear the whirring after the first crank/release.
The second is it starting after a single pump. You can hear the same whirring noise right after it fires.

These are both taken inside the cab with everything closed up.

If this is normal with the high torque starters or even just pmgr starters, great. I am just a little cautious after the periodic grinding noise of the MasterTorque. Adding the shim is the only adjustment option I am aware of.

XSTorqueFord460-C6-NOSTART.wav

XSTorqueFord460-C6.wav

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, I agree it might get crowded at the back of the engine.  Yours is working, so let's see how mine works out before you start planning.

On the starter, are you starting it inside a garage?  If so, some of that sound is reflected back off the walls and wouldn't be heard outside.  Or at least it would not be as loud.

On your first recording the initial crank has the over-run but the second doesn't.  On the second recording I hear it.  I don't remember mine doing that, but what I think is happening is that the engine catches and races away from the starter, so the starter spins freely.

Since these are geared starters the gear that engages the flywheel doesn't spin as fast as on a non-geared starter.  So if you don't let go of the key immediately when the engine catches it'll continue to spin but not fast enough to be kept engaged with the flywheel.

But I don't hear anything I'd worry about.

[kramttocs]

Thanks Gary. Yes, this is inside a metal shop building that even if it is misting outside it sounds like a downpour.
Appreciate you taking a listen and for giving me the right word (over-run) to describe it

[Bruce moose4x4]

Been reading your guys thoughts on fuel line placement. Remember, ALL the heat from engine is being blown back to the firewall then out under the truck. The fuel lines coming up in the front are in somewhat cooler air flow? The EFI would have enough pressure to keep from vapor locking, Not sure a carb  setup would.

[Gary Lewis]

True, Bruce.  But in my case I'll be running the EFI fuel pump, so plenty of pressure.  And it'll drop down to 5 psi via the return regulator, so there will be lots of circulation back to the tank.

[FuzzFace2]

kramttocs wrote

I just did some quick looking at that offering. Those look really nice at a great price point! I like the short length of them, the 27%, and that they work in 2wd or 4wd (that is a gvod deal breaker in some regions).

Looks like they require a few more modifications to the truck and I will be interested in seeing how you do the shift lever changes.

Unfortunately I can't change the speedometer back to the factory setup because with the 4wd install you replace the back half of the transfer case with a gvod provided one so you no longer have the speedometer hookup.

I had a hard time spending $3000+ just for OD and not be able to split all the gears if I wanted to. Thing is it cant be used with an auto but can be with stick & 4x4.
I am sure this virus messed up them building the OD unit and why I don't have it yet.

Yes the shifter(s) will be fun to deal with. I have a different hump cover that has the transmission opening back farther so may not have to cut that big a hole for that.
I have also seen different mods to the OD stick to move it to the center more if needed.

I would love to shift it with an electric  motor like a 2sp rear axle.
I found that the early ones were electric shift but had a high failure rate so they went with the stick.
I might be able to get one to work but I am seeing them for about $400 and up so don't need to electric shift it that bad LOL

I forgot the GVOD unit replaced the tail housing with an adaptor so cant check the speedo.
Dave ----

[kramttocs]

Dave - I am excited to see it when you get it - hopefully this all clears up sooner rather than later and they can ship it out.

Piddled around a little bit in the shop this afternoon.
Blasted and coated the new crank pulley, hooked up the sub to test it for fun, and redid/hooked up the trailer wiring at the bumper.
The truck has the towing package and I believe Ford left the end back by the bumper as just 8 wires for the owner to tie into.
At some point in the truck's history a PO did a number of wiring additions but fortunately they did a really good job overall and it was easy to remove them. The only problem one was a scotchlock that caused the wire to split when I removed it.
I only bring that up to say that person also updated/changed the trailer connector (at the rear) to bullet connectors. I can tell because the connectors and crimp style all match the other wiring mods.
I don't care to have a cluster of 8 bullet connectors all taped up so switched them two 4 pin MetriPack 280 connectors. Even though the red/lg isn't used I put it in one of the plugs since a use case may come up for it later. Not anything exciting but just adding it for my own notes.

I didn't post anything in the threads but thanks to David I have the in bed spare tire holder. My dual exhaust is preventing me from adding the spare under the bed - something the exhaust guy and I talked about so knew it going in. I actually don't care a ton for it under there for a few reasons so was OK losing it. I wasn't ever planning to do the mounted in bed style though and was going to get a toolbox but a couple weeks ago decided to hold off on that. Then lo and behold David posted the in bed carrier.
The only things I don't have right now is the bolt, that square piece in the back that stops it from spinning and the factory padlock. The bolt I am holding off on until I see what length I need for the Alcoa rim, the square piece I will make, and I just can't get myself to spend the money on the padlocks right now...



I would like some feedback on this part though. I absolute hate to drill into the bed rail and lower side of the bed but that's unavoidable (unless I talk myself out if it) so here are my questions/comments.

1. The bulkhead has line x over the top but the sides do not. Thinking that I should linex the L shaped bracket and the upright. Thoughts being that this would help prevent scratches on the white bedside rail as well as be more durable to tire rubbing than powder coating them. Plus it would be less metal on metal all around.

The next two are google worthy but I trust you guys more
2. What is the best way to drill a hole in the bed rail without the paint chipping? Small pilot hole and then tape over it when I drill it larger?

3. To prevent rust, would some white touchup paint (got some after the truck was painted) be the right thing to go around the bare metal inside the holes with? Let it dry and then install the bracket.

[kramttocs]

I completely missed this. Thanks Bruce, that is a good point when sticking with the carb setup.

[ArdWrknTrk]

How big a hole do you need to drill?

I'd be tempted* to use a step drill (like a Uni-Bit)
Drilling sheet metal is what they're made for, and they don't have the helix that always leaves a burr.

[kramttocs]

I will have to check if it's an m8 or 10.
I have a step bit I just bought so it should be nice and sharp.

[Gary Lewis]

I like the in-bed spare idea.  I can't do that on Big Blue due to the tool box, but when I get the bumper built I'll have that whipped.

On yours, I'd Line-X the carrier part that goes up against the bed.  It'll cushion things a bit and, like you said, won't wear like powder.

And I'd also paint the inside of the hole with touch-up paint, but after priming it.  You sure don't want rust there.

[grumpin]

On the paint at the holes you’re going to drill. We used paint cutters on aircraft that hadn’t had the inspection panels pulled yet. But they were for screws, and I don’t remember seeing anything bigger than a 1/4 inch, which is what this link shows.

Maybe one could make them. The little tip in the middle goes in the screw head.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/screwpaintcutterkit.php?gclid=EAIaIQobChMItfSY56iZ6QIVCMJkCh0k3gVFEAQYASABEgIFcPD_BwE

 

[Gary Lewis]

Dane - I didn't know such a thing existed.  Good to know.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Looks pretty much like a spotweld cutter, but of course it scores the periphery.

If anything for a boat costs 3x as much as it should, anything for aircraft costs 6x.
And by extrapolation anything for spacecraft costs 18x as much.
But there are forces in that industry changing  things

[kramttocs]

Too late at night for a full update of what I've done since the last post but I did get the dash pad and cover installed this evening. Have been holding off as I needed to solder the cb/am-fm wiring back together. Had to unsolder the connection to get the coax to fit through the cowl/firewall hole.  I just wanted to add some photos of the cover for a visual to anyone else that may consider this style in the future.
This is the Covercraft Ultimat. The fit is great and I don't plan on installing the velcro if I can help it. As far as carpet dash covers go, I am really impressed. It screams 80's.
I see that Covercraft now has a Carhartt dash that looks really nice. In addition to that and the Ultimat, they have a few other styles.

(Plain dash for easy comparison)

[grumpin]

Looks good!

I don’t usually like dashpads, but I dislike holes in the speaker grille, I put one on, I want to says it is a Coverlay, probably wrong, but I like it. Our trucks are like twinsies!

[Gary Lewis]

Interesting, Scott.  Didn't know that was available.

Dane - You are probably right.  Coverlay makes the vast majority of the dash covers.  Properly painted they are easily mistaken for a good dash pad.

[grumpin]

I think I’m thinking wrong. It’s a carpet cover.

[kramttocs]

grumpin wrote

 Our trucks are like twinsies!

Haha so true.
If you get a chance and want to, I wouldn't mind seeing your dash cover. We may be in the minority rocking carpet dash covers but I know when I was looking I was a bit overwhelmed by the different offerings from Covercraft alone and would have liked to have see a few examples actually in our trucks.

[FuzzFace2]

Dash looks great
I have the dash pad cover and I painted it to match the other painted parts inside but I am finding during the day light hours, I drive to work in the dark, the sun reflects off the top back onto the windshield making it hard to see.
So I am thinking of getting the rug cover and if I can help it not use the Velcro also.
Dave ----