My 84 has a slow crank issue going on, looking for advice please.
Here is what I know so far: -Truck will somewhat slow crank, but it will eventually start on a cold start -Occasionally the truck will spin backwards a tad when I let off the starter as if there is too much compression built up (timing maybe?) -Truck will only slow crank and not get any momentum or start after it is shut off once its warmed up -If I let it cool down for a while it will again have a slow crank but it is fast enough to start again -Battery is 12.6v (725CCA) -When attempting to crank the battery drops to 9v (normal I think) -I have cleaned/filed/saned all battery terminals and main wire connections from the battery, to ground, to the starter -When I attempt to jump the truck to another vehicle it still has the same exact slow crank symptom -If I move the battery over to the 85 she cranks fine (so battery is good) So my suspicion is starter because that is the only thing left right? Is there anything else on these trucks ignition wise that could cause a slow crank other than a starter such as voltage regulator, or ignition module? I was going to pull the starter and have it tested today but just did not have enough time and wanted to see what you guys thought before I pull it tomorrow.
Project "Red" (not really named yet): '84 F150 4x2, Holley 4bbl 351 w/302 cam shaft and side exit pipes. Still learning what else is there but in progress of putting her back together and on the road.
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Administrator
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I think you have one of three problems. Here they are in my estimation of decreasing probability:
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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I agree with Gary. My truck would slow crank, but only when warm, because of timing advance.
Check the battery and cables. Also some parts stores will check your battery and starter for you.
Dane
1986 F250HD SC XLT Lariat 4x4 460 C6-Sold 1992 Bronco XLT 4x4 351W E4OD 1998 GMC Sierra SLE K1500 350 4L60E Arizona |
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In reply to this post by jstone4646
What’s your static timing set at? Do you know?
SHORT BED 4-DOOR DIESEL: 1986 F350 4x4 under construction-- 7.3 IDIT ZF5+GVOD
STRAIGHT SIX 4X4: 1981 F150 2wd to 4x4-- 300 I6 close ratio diesel T19, hydroboost brakes, Saginaw steering BIG F: 1995 F-Superduty under construction— converting to 6.9L IDI diesel ZF5+DNE2 |
No I do not know, I have not messed with the timing on the 84. I did learn quite a bit setting the timing on the 85 though so I will check out timing on the 84 to see. Just another item to add to the list for the project.
Project "Red" (not really named yet): '84 F150 4x2, Holley 4bbl 351 w/302 cam shaft and side exit pipes. Still learning what else is there but in progress of putting her back together and on the road.
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Dropping to 9V on a start is the low side of normal. I would check your engine ground first. Many times, they become " non-existent" . . over the years. You need a good ground, good connections at the end of the cable and a good clean connection where it bolts to the truck frame or sheet metal. I would take all loose, clean and reinstall.
Pete's Ponies
Mustang RUSToration & Performance 1982 F100 Flareside 1983 Bronco |
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In reply to this post by jstone4646
That's nearly a volt lower than it should be. That's also more than a volt lower than normal. A file is the wrong tool to use on any electrical terminal. It removes so much metal, and can change the shape of the terminal so much that it makes the connection worse. Even when warm? You said without the jump, it doesn't crank warm. That's not a valid test of the battery. The only test Ford, most automakers, & most battery mfrs. accept is this brand & type: Not even close. You didn't post any pics of the battery, the terminals, the starter, the cables, the meter you're using, the engine-running voltage at the battery OR the alternator... Click this & read all the captions: No, the ignition system has barely any impact on cranking. It's mainly dictated by the starting system & the engine. But the charging system has a big impact on the condition of the battery, which is in the starting system. |
SUCCESS UPDATE: So my boy went to auto zone last night and had the starter tested, auto zone reported the test was good. This morning I put that starter back in the truck and the same thing, slow crank. I started noticing a smell coming from the engine bay, crawled under the truck and discovered it was the starter that was smelling (think burnt electrical smell). Took it back to auto zone and sure enough it tested good. When it came out of the tester it was so incredibly hot I could not even pick it up and their tester cubby smelled like a series of burnt electronics. Bought a new one, put it in, truck cranks just fine....case closed, finally!
I ended up going back to auto zone and purchasing all new wiring, relay to starter, relay to batter, ground wire, etc. The old wiring worked fine but it was so nasty looking I decided to replace it anyways.
Project "Red" (not really named yet): '84 F150 4x2, Holley 4bbl 351 w/302 cam shaft and side exit pipes. Still learning what else is there but in progress of putting her back together and on the road.
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Congrat's!!!!
It's a good feeling when you fix a nagging problem like that. Well done.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by jstone4646
I hope so, but I doubt it. Zone parts are rarely a "final fix". More often, they're just wastes of time & money. But 2 of them almost killed me on separate occasions. |
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