Radiator core support removal.

[Frogger2662]

Getting ready to pull the engine from
my 84 F150. Thinking about pulling core support and bring engine straight thru the front. My queston is can you pull the support with out pulling the bumper. Looks like i can remove complete grill assembly, unbolt upper fender bolts and pull support foward to remove. Is this possible?

[Rembrant]

This is exactly how I removed and reinstalled my engine, all alone.

[Frogger2662]

Very good news. I am going to be doing most of the work by myself and that just looks like it would be a lot easier. I am pulling engine and transmisson together in one piece.

[Frogger2662]

Looks like you could almost do it without removing the hood if you can rig the engine hoist short enough.

[Rembrant]

Frogger2662 wrote

Looks like you could almost do it without removing the hood if you can rig the engine hoist short enough.

Maybe so, but the hood is pretty easy to remove. I'd take it off if it were me. Even by yourself, just stack up some towels under each corner so that it doesn't scratch the paint, and then you can lift it off and set it on or in the bed.

[Gary Lewis]

I haven't been able to do it w/o at least tilting the hood back by removing the "link", the front piece with the coil spring on it.  That will let the hood go back some.  But be careful because the hood can hit the cowl.  DAHIK.  

[kramttocs]

Removing the core support makes it much easier

I removed the hood but I don't think I would have hit it. I used a carb lift plate and put the hoist hook directly in one of the holes so it was as short as one could get. Pulled and installed a 460/C6 combo like this. Pulled it fully dressed with the cast intake. Installed with the aluminum intake without accessories.

[myrl883]

Just don't try to drive the bolts of of the body insulators! The nuts come off the top to remove the core support, but the bolts stay in the frame for alignment. They're threaded into the insulators.

[kramttocs]

myrl883 wrote

They're threaded into the insulators.

Fused is more like it
I destroyed one of mine taking it out so when reinstalling it from a parts truck I was liberal with the anti-seize and then packed the "funnel" with grease.

But you are absolutely right - remove the nuts but leave the bolts alone unless replacing insulators.

[ArdWrknTrk]

X2, good advice!  

Of course my truck was ready for frame savers so it was easier to just lift the bolts out with the radiator support and work where I had better access.

I didn't know frame savers existed back then, and made my own with a die grinder and file from some honking big washers.

[Frogger2662]

That's good advice on the bolts. They appear in good condition. To be on the safe side i will a soak them in Kroil for a day or two. Will i have to spread the fenders apart some and pull straight up on the support to remove it?

[Rembrant]

Frogger2662 wrote

That's good advice on the bolts. They appear in good condition. To be on the safe side i will a soak them in Kroil for a day or two. Will i have to spread the fenders apart some and pull straight up on the support to remove it?

You might have to pry on the fenders a little bit, but the core support should tilt forward. The holes in the core support where the bolts pass through are huge to allow for body alignment.

[Rembrant]

kramttocs wrote

Fused is more like it
I destroyed one of mine taking it out so when reinstalling it from a parts truck I was liberal with the anti-seize and then packed the "funnel" with grease.

Destroying them is the only way to remove them here...lol, but then again a lot of things don't "unscrew" here after a few years, and certainly not after 35-40 years.

[Andre]

If you have the place to hang a chain block above the engine bay, there is no real need to remove the complete radiator support. With the fan, alternator and steering pump removed there is plenty of space to remove the engine, even without removing the radiator. Hood has to come off. All possible to do alone, as I did mine in October.