Oil filter leaks no matter what filter I run.

[JunkCollector]

My '84 460 has the filter adapter and no matter what filter I run, I get a steady drip from the filter. I've got a Purolator that cross-referenced to a PH3600 on it right now, I read that the FL1A fits, which referenced to a PH8a, the PH8a hits my engine cross member and can't be installed. The PH3600 style Purolator screws on and fits snug, but still drips from the o-ring. What filter is it supposed to have on it? It's driving me bonkers and I cant stand it constantly leaving puddles everywhere!

[ArdWrknTrk]

FL1A is almost all I run, unless CarQuest is running a package special.

I imagine your filter adaptor is not clocked correctly.
There is no locating dowel or anything like that.

You need a square section seal (just like an oil filter) and a new sealing washer.

Support the truck and take the wheel off.
Use a 1/2 drive socket and a long(ish) extension to reach the banjo bolt holding the adapter to the block insert.
Remove it, clean everything thoroughly, replace with new seals.
Before tightening it down install a filter and make sure it doesn't rub the crossmember or touch the lower radiator hose.
If you have assistance get someone to hold the filter while you tighten the bolt.
I usually use my battery impact and hold the filter with my left hand.

[ArdWrknTrk]

If you find the filter still leaks you might try tightening the piece in the adapter that the filter screws on.

That should put more pressure on the filter seal.

But if the filter is too close to the crossmember, every time the engine rocks on its mounts the filter is going to be pushed sideways.

Have you looked at your engine mounts lately?

[myrl883]

FL1A is the correct filter for all 460s.

Also, check the casting number on your adapter. The early design used a gasket under the bolt head, late designs use an o-ring. I don't remember what year it changed.

Lastly, are your filters bulging or splitting at the crimp? There was a TSB in the 80s or early 90s that stated that 460s tended to have an oil pressure spike on cold start up. If that is the case, change to an FL1HP and that will cure the problem.

[JunkCollector]

Currently it just leaks at the filter where the o ring seats to the adapter, so Id say its definitely clocked wrong. Its also almost as if the filter adapter is warped where the filter screws on cus it leaks on the back side of the filter.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'm not sure what you mean "back side"

[ArdWrknTrk]

Great advice (and experience) Thanks!  

[JunkCollector]

Basically the side of the filter thats closest to the cross member, almost as if someone bent the spindle plate or something.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Well, like I said, if the filter doesn't have enough clearance and the engine rocks in its mounts the filter is going to be tipped off its mounting face.

I'd first try turning the adapter so the filter points more forward, and you can get the proper filter on there.
If you take the adapter all the way off it would be pretty easy to look at how a filter is tightening up, while you had it on the bench.

If the 'spindle' is bent you can install a new one.

[85lebaront2]

When I bought Darth, the filer adapter was loose on the engine and by the time I got him from Gordonsville  VA to Suffolk VA where a friend had his shop, my 1987 Horizon was never going to rust the front end.

I would do what Jim said about taking the adapter off. With it off the engine, put it in a vice so you can get at everything. Take a new FL1A filter (I wouldn't use a Fram on a lawnmower) and carefully screw it on until the gasket just touches the adapter face STOP! Now carefully use a feeler gauge to see if the hollow screw is FUBARed. There are a number of filters that look the same but have slight differences. The FL1A uses an American thread, some of the similar ones use a Metric thread that is close but not exact and it will go on partially or loosely and chew up the threads. Once you determine thread condition and verify that the correct filter will seat and seal properly you can reassemble the adapter to the block, square O-ring PN is -87947-S91, if you have the adapter with the grooved seat for the hollow bolt, that O-ring is F0TZ-6749-B, if you have the washer, I don't have that number.

Once you get the adapter back on the engine, install the filter and loosen the adapter bolt just enough so you can turn the adapter. Proper location, the oil filter sits almost against the lower radiator hose when everything is correct.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Great info Bill!  
Thanks for the part numbers.

The 1990 (F0TZ) part number explains why my '87 uses the older sealing washer, and also suggests that the OP's truck will as well.

[85lebaront2]

Jim, 1990 was when the oil cooler changed from an oil-air cooler to the "grenade" oil-water cooler. Darth had the washer originally, when I scored the cooler adapter at Pick-n-Pull it had the O-ring under the bolt head.

[JunkCollector]

Clocked it up hoping the gasket would somehow survive, fixed one leak and made a worse one, so I'll be ordering the new gasket tomorrow.

[JunkCollector]

New gasket and a touch of high tack sealant on the washer and its good as new, PH8a filter still leaks but im blaming that on the fact that i re used it.

[Gary Lewis]

PH8A?  You are running an orange oil filter?  A Fram?  

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'll blame it on using ' The Orange Can of Death' in the first place!  

All joking aside, I'm glad you've fixed your leak and are able to get the correct size filter on there now.  

[Dan Crowley]

Hi JunkCollector,  Just a thought, do you put a little oil on the seal of the filter before you tighten it.  Some times if you don't they will leak.

[JunkCollector]

Always do, I worked in a shop for a few years doing maintenance, and I make sure everything's always done right and torqued to its proper specs.